The Long Way to Palenque

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We had a disappointing day today. We got up early and set out towards Palenque, with planned stops at Agua Azul cascades and Misol-Ha waterfall. Maybe, if we have time and we're not too tired, we'll go see the Mayan ruins of Palenque today. If not, then tomorrow.

The drive started out fine, we drove out of town and on pretty good roads. The road eventually got narrower and had more twists & turns as we drove into the mountains. Every time we passed a tiny village or even a stall on the side of the road selling coke to truck drivers there were topes. We were soon driving through a mountain jungle, twisting and turning like spaghetti, slowing almost to a stop at every tope, and gritting our teeth at the ones we didn't see in time to slow down enough. Some of the topes are marked with signs "Topes a 50 metros", but not all, and many are all but invisible. Driving took some serious patience and concentration!

As we got nearer Palenque the number of children trying to sell stuff at the bigger topes rose (you are forced to slow almost to a stop there), and now and then some tried to block the road with rope and demand ransom for passage. I did like the Mexican drivers and drove right through them, forcing them to lower the rope.

A couple of hours into the ride we passed through the relatively large town of Ocisingo, and not long after that came across our first real shake-down. The local tribe of bandits (I guess that's what they are, and I'm really not too interested in finding out) blocked the main road with rocks, leaving just one lane open. That lane was blocked with a board full of nails. Drivers could either pay up 50 pesos or turn around and go back. They demanded their ransom from all vehicles, local and tourist alike, cars, trucks, collectivos (red pickup trucks instead of vans here), buses, everyone. We argued and managed to get our ransom down to 20 pesos, but it's still bloody aggravating! The military and police (both of which are prominent in the area) do nothing about it. Hell, they probably pay the ransom too!

Tired and upset, we continued on towards Agua Azul, which are supposed to be the most gorgeous rapids out, and with areas you can swim in. We finally arrived there only to pay 50 pesos each for entry. The place is packed with touristy restaurants, stalls selling touristy junk and disgusting outhouses you could use for 10 pesos. In short, they took a beautiful natural phenomenon and turned it into a giant, ugly tourist trap.

Tamar and I, totally disgusted by now, walked up the path, shooing off adults and children alike trying to sell us trinkets, to see the rapids. Well, I must admit they are pretty. a wide river cascading over the rocks, forming pools and small waterfalls as it winds its way through the jungle. We managed to get some footage of leaf-cutter ants too. We tried to enjoy it but we were hot, tired and even though we were getting hungry, refused to leave any money there.

We got back to the car and drove out of there, towards Misol-Ha waterfall. On the way we had to go through another nail-board shake-down. This time we prepared ourselves - we hid our money, leaving only 20 pesos in my wallet. The women came to the car as the men sat and did nothing but pull the rope to drag the board on or off the road. We showed them we had no money left. A large guy came over and started spewing some form of Spanish at us, and we finally came to an agreement of 20 pesos for passage.

We got to Misol-Ha. At the top of the road we paid 10 (just 10?) pesos each to enter. We even got tickets. Then at the bottom of the road was another entrance demanding 20 pesos a person! SERIOUSLY?! Turns out the first payment was for some ethnic group (probably the same as the banditos). Anyway, we'd totally had it by now so we turned around and headed back. We picked up a French couple trying to get to Palenque without a car. At the first toll we demanded our money back from the first stall. Tamar's fuse blew so impressively that we actually got it back! The French couple were very impressed!

We chatted about our experiences on the way to Palenque. They were just starting a year-long world trip, and Mexico was their first destination. Sadly, they won't be making it to Israel, but there are only so many days in a year.

We dropped them off at the entrance to the city and a few minutes later found our hotel. Palenque itself is an unimpressive town. It seemed run-down and dusty, with lots of small industry.

We found a laundry nearby in a hut behind a mechanic's shop. The lady there would have our laundry ready in two hours, she said. Fine. While we waited we found a small restaurant to eat. It was on the second floor, the walls were covered in all sorts of wierd stuff. Animal skins and trophies, old, squashed hats with writing on them covered one wall, old fashioned dresses either by themselves or on dolls, Indian dream catchers and assorted other junk.

The service was tawdry but the food was ok, and inexpensive. We went to relax a bit in our room, and I went to get our clothes. The lady there had it all washed, dried and folded, even the laundry bag!

By now we were so tired we just relaxed a bit in the small hotel pool (they had a pool) and went to bed. The blog got further delayed because the Interned here is very slow.

So, tomorrow we'll see the old city of Palenque, we'll try the Misol-Ha waterfall again (we'll just pay twice or we won't see anything, we have to accept that that's just how things work here), and then a long drive South to Comitan.

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Photos

A tope warning sign
This is an 'official' sign. Most were hand painted.

Kids selling snacks to travellers
This was at the first road block, before we knew what the holdup was.

Stalls at Agua Azul
A few of the stalls sold coconut, cocoa bean and fruit