Ruin(ed) Jungle

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Well not totally ruined. Yesterday I took a long tour from Palenque to two ruins near the Guatemala border - Yaxchilan and Bonampak - left town at 6am and got back near 7pm - long, wonderful and extremely hot day. Left early, just as it was getting light out, for the long drive - 148 km plus along the Carretera Fronteriza - a long drive with the frequent traffic bumps (and they are serious bumps in villages and some I think to allow for easier military, police chases as this zone has numerous military checkpoints (we were only stopped at one on the way back - the vans all tend to leave Palenque at the same time) due to the border - immigration, smuggling, was rebel activity area. The drive was beautiful, much in a valley on the foothills of the mountains, past villages and much cattle ranching - thus the ruined jungle. Much jungle has been cleared in the past decade or so to make way for grazing lands - still is green, but some of this is on slopes and the jungle, like the west coast rainforest, has a very thin layer of topsoil thus erosion is likely once it has been cleared. Went through a bit of jungle on the way. On the way out we stopped for a buffet breakfast at about 7:30 - as did all the vans from the different companies. The villages were quiet in the morning, but coming back (3 hours each way) they were lively - people walking along the road, sitting around (mainly men as women seeemed to be busy) women around homes, kids playing, men carrying wood, men sitting outside a few simple cantinas watching TV (is a communal activity), women and children bathing in rivers or water holes. Simple homes, poor or wood and tin roofs mainly - single door generally no windows, dirt roads where they existed, but the people seemed less downtrodden than neat San Cristobal. And the cows, and chickens and dogs. Few cars on the road - mainly collectivos (communal vans) and here, like with towards Ocosingo on the way to San Cristobal many camionettes (the pickup trucks with the covered backs (think modern wagon) that carry people, stuff etc. The land here is beautiful, noticed in coming back from San Sristobal, especially after Ocosingo - lusher, with shades of green, more shapely though much smaller hills and mountains, even on this trip where it has been cleared for cattle. Coming back I noticed one area of hills about 70 km or so from Palenque where the hills all looked about the size and shape of pyramids - wonder if they could be - for how many more ruins are there. enough about the road.

The first sight we went to was Yaxchilan (about 600-800 ad)- on the Rio Usumacinta - which is the border with Guatemala. To get there we have to go to the border town of Frontera Corozol (yes the 3 hour drive) and take a boat (or laucha) downstream for a 40 minute ride (one hour back). The narrow boats - like large covered flat bottom canoes with benches on the sides and outboard motors - are lined up along the water. The one we were to take bumped into some others pulling up to the beach - we all looked at each other as we got on (7 on our tour - three dour Germans, and 3 Mexicans - an older couple spoke English - and myself) for although the river was narrow and ran slowly, it did have crocodiles. The ride was great- land flat initially then hills returned. The ruins have no road access and are very peaceful and set in the jungle - smaller and less grand than some of the bigger sights but special. You enter the centre plaza by going through a narrow dark passage in a building. The main building is up a very long staircase, and trails in the jungle lead to other buildings (many stairs), Beautiful but HOT - I don´t think I´ve ever been so hot and sweaty in my life - every item of clothing was wet (and for the others) and the heat did put a bit of a damper of the exploration. Heard monkeys in several areas, but it was only up a longer trail just as I needed to head back down for the boat, that I managed to see a pair in the trees - yes swinging and hanging from the branches. I don´t think it ever felt so good to be on a moving boat as when we left - the breeze dried off the sweat. Met 2 guys who were on the 2 day tour down to Guatemale - one American and one German - to talk to.

After the hour boat ride upstream, we had lunch (included) in the resto by the launch - small town, dirt roads off the main etc. Ate chicken (I am turning into a carnivore).

Then we drove to Bonampak - a lesser ruin but probably more beautiful - had an hour there but I could have spent longer just sitting on the temple looking out over the plaza and the hills in the area. This sight was about a 30 minute drive back towards Palenque - changed vans for the last few km in where we got into a simple collectivo (we were in nice 16 seat air-conditioned van) for a drive down a narrow dirt road in the jungle to the sight. Yes, this is also very treed. Along with the setting, what is really special about this place are the murals from about 8 century ad - similar feel to those you see from Egypt.

Then back to town. Am staying in town this time - felt better this time after the latte town of San Cristobal - more rough and real - though now is becoming loud. Still decent clean room with own bath and fans for 100 pesos a night. Today I went back to the Palenque ruins - I like the feel there - were emptier though I got there a bit later - and there was a breeze. Spent a while exploring the palace, and a good while sitting on Templo de la Cruz (temple of the cross) looking over the sight. It is in the grupo de las cruses which was the religious area in the city. Still, sometimes I wonder about the wisdom of uncovering what was left fallow for so lone. Then I sat by the waterfalls - at the top had a wonderful meditative feeling so I spent a while but then in a lower set I saw formations (scuptures) in the rocks that I found scary - one looked like a monkey warning us and other rocks looked like deformed gods and there I felt the downfall of the city. So saw both the beauty and horror of Palenque.

Tommorow am off to Villahermosa for a night or 2 then ??? Feeling better though - got my period.

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