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Published: April 6th 2006
The RV
Home Sweet Home for Holly & DanWe started in La Ventana - where Holly & Dan lived for the winter and headed to La Paz to stock up before hitting the open road. The desert stretches for miles and goes right up to the edge of the sea.
Our first stop was Magdalena Bay, where we intended to stay a night and possibly see Gray Whales. The town was quiet and with a fish cannery in the background, wasn't so aromatic, so we ate some lunch - tacos de pescado and chicken mole - and headed to Loreto.
Loreto is a cute town and we got in after dark - drove up & down the main street before settling on Motel Dorado - I think. We wandered the streets looking for dinner and drinks. There was a talent show happening on a stage in the middle of town. The whole town seemed to be there - cheering for 4 young men who were breakdancing - we giggled and split. We found our way back to a nice outdoor/palapa restaurant for dinner and went to bed.
The next day we did a little shopping and moved on up the road to Bahia Conception to our
The Beach
The view from the beach/RV at La Ventana Palapa Hut on the beach. After the margaritas served by Carlo-the-dirty-dancer at Ana's - sleep was not going to come - and the horrible little cots in our palapa didn't help. Tossed & turned all night. Next day- got up and went kayaking in the bay. We watched birds and saw a few fish and a handful of seastars before heading back and taking off for the next stop of Mulege.
Mulege is a nice little oasis town with lots of palm trees and a nice canal. We shopped, bought some glassware and necklaces, ate dinner at the "best" place in town and continued up the road to San Ignacio.
After securing a spot on a whale-watching boat with Kuyima Tours, and surely upsetting a waitress which I won't get into... we took off for Laguna San Ignacio - about an hour or so down a rocky, sandy, bumpy road that I wouldn't want to take without 4 wheel drive - to the Kuyima camp. This is where we would pitch our tent and spend the night in anticipation of seeing gray whales the next day. The wind was so... huge? we couldn't believe our tent withstood. When
Holly & Dan
Holly & Dan in front of the RV we took the tent down the next day, we almost blew away with it and a nice little guy ran over to help us as we threw our bodies on top of it so we wouldn't blow away. Really.
We waited for the wind to die down and finally... the call came and we were off. The whales were all over and we were lucky to be one of only 2 or 3 boats in the whole sanctuary. The babies are so curious - they come right up to the boats and stick their noses up and roll around. And then the mamas come to get them and take them down deep. The last ballena we saw was a lover and stayed with us for a while. He rolled and scratched under our boat and we scratched his belly and gave him a kiss or two. It was amazing!
After the excitement of the whales, we drove back to San Ignacio and up the road to Guerrero Negro. We spent the night in Guerrero Negro and got up at the crack of dawn with the goal of hitting San Diego. After the Boulder Fields near Catavina, we stopped
The Open Road
Highway 1, Baja Mexico in at the famous Mama Espinosa's for a late breakfast and continued up the road to Ensenada. More eats and more shopping in Ensenada and then we set out for the final leg - up through Tijuana, through San Diego, and up to the LAX airport after a 15 hour drive - to crash out at a Ramada Inn - to head our separate ways the next day.
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Holly
non-member comment
Thank You!
I loved our trip Jenny. remembering too the part where we said "eek" and ran away in Loreto, and your dance with Carlo, and also picturing the road runner and the bunny rabbit with his ears blowing in the wind. AND I'm here to be a witness to y'all - Jenny kissed a whale on his nose, and he even seemed to hang out extra long in order to get the kiss!