Montreal: Bring your passport, but leave "Le Bec Fin" at home

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I was sort of intrigued when friends decided that Montreal would be their next vacation destination. I was actually quite surprised as I thought we were headed to England & Scotland. But I am flexible. “Count me in” I said. And with the weak American Dollar, I was not looking forward to the financial ouch of European travel with conversion of the lagging American Dollar to the British Pound or Euros. And I can speak French and would enjoy a Parisian style ambiance without the 7 hour flight time for a pittance of a trip to France. As a devotee of haute French Cuisine, I could be useful translating French menus in a flash for not so French cuisine addicted friends.

I was surprised by the small Delta Connection aircraft from NYC to Pierre Trudeau Airport in Montreal, Quebec. But it was well appointed, on-time, and I was impressed that they served complimentary beverages and snacks with only one hour air time.

Taxis from the airport are somewhat costly ($45.00 plus tip) considering what I believe to be a fifteen minute ride. Your hotel can arrange a taxi pick up on your return.

Our hotel, Marriott Spring Hill Suites, tucked away on Rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste in Old Montreal, mere steps from Rue Saint Paul, the oldest and at one time only street in Montreal, was my idea of a great hotel. Only 6 floors, it has a boutique ambiance. From the concierge to the maid service, service is friendly and courteous. I’m more or less in love with my room which has a kitchen with microwave & refrigerator, a desk/business center opposite the kitchen, a sitting room, flat screen TV with many channels (mostly in French), two queen sized beds and a 2-section bathroom. An iron & iron board is provided which is essential for me as my clothes wrinkle easily. Buffet breakfast is also included on the mezzanine level, and there is a pool and whirlpool for our use on the end of the first floor. A daily newspaper is provided at your door each morning.

I was miffed the first day as we spend 6 hours at 3 restaurants trying to get a decent meal. It became obvious my bec fin tastes would not be satiated in Canada. (Le Bec Fin, literally "fine beak" but properly translated is "refined taste"). In the afternoon we hit the second floor aerie Creperie St. Paul for crepes and then slightly later we plopped in the outdoor café of Le Grand Terrasse in Place Jacques-Cartier, where locals and tourists collide. We decided on drinks only, then walked up to Rue Saint Catherine and stumbled upon Planete Resto Bar on a cozy corner. Here everyone seemed to enjoy their late dinner. I haven’t had pasta carbonara in a while and this version was quite good. You can’t go wrong with salads, burgers or entrees as well.

The next day, of course we had to book 5 seats on the Amphitour, a retrofitted bus that takes us through the streets of old and downtown Montreal then heads down a ramp and plops itself in the water and turns into a river cruise. No one said that I would be splashed through the non-existent windows with my digital camera in my hands. The Amphitour bus does remarkably well in the river as we pass the Old Port (4 piers) and glimpse Ste. Helene Island, part of Jean Drapeau Park and former home to the 1967 Montreal Expo. I was glad the boat avoided the swift running current between the Old Port & Ste. Helene Island.

As my lunch that day was just a bottle of Perrier ($4.00), I was eager to sit down on the terrace of Restaurant Fripon in Place Jacque Cartier for a late lunch. My pals only wanted cappuccinos, but I needed a restorative club sandwich and fries. With the gracious service, it was a satisfying experience.

I was surprised to see a $5.00 admission fee to enter Notre Dame Basilica (on Rue Notre Dame, of course, opposite the Bank of Montreal). I had to stay for the guided tour, which was held at the same time that mass was being held (but if you are attending mass, note that it is in the Chapel in the rear). The interior is truly stunning and ornate, the nave exquisite, the side pulpit a work of art.

On a last minute decision, my four chums decided to take the Metro to Mont Royal, a park and highest point in Montreal. The hike up Rue Mont Royal from the subway to the mountain seemed like it took forever. A local directs us to a dirt path entry and of course they want to take the dirt trail to the very top. Many locals use this as an exercise trail as most locals are running or biking. Montreal residents are very fit, by the way. It takes our motley group about an hour and a half to reach the Chalet Mont Royal & Observation platform, where you are rewarded with the metropolis of Montreal below you. If you can stay for the sunset as Montreal lights up, it will be worth your while as well. Great. Now we can leave. Not quite. Now they want to climb even further to reach the top summit where the illuminated Cross of Mont Royal towers over the trees. The downward decline trek can be hazardous to your calves and as there is no lighting on the mountain trail, you had better hope for a full moon.

Curiously, the mountain downward trail dumps us on the south side (we came from North of the park). Totally lost we follow Ave. Peel and as it is 9:30 pm, we stop for a restorative dinner at Carlos & Pepe. Delicious Mexican food at a fair price with a friendly wait staff, who draw us a map on a napkin to get us back to our hotel, still so far away. This is also one of the few places that take the Discover Card.

We decide to walk back, down Ave. Peel, left on Rue Sainte-Catherine West (the West part seems to be an upscale shopping district, but when you reach the intersection of Sainte Catherine & Saint Laurent, the area can be a red light district.) Head way East and you reach the Village, where the street is open to pedestrians only and reminiscent of Christopher Street in the West Village of NYC, but much more bold, less understated.

Along the way we pass Quartier des Spectacles, where outdoor events (Comedy Festival while we are there), lots of people and jumbotron video screens provide plenty of distractions. If you like crowds, you will not be alone here.

On our final night we chose to eat in Vieux Montreal (near our hotel). I am generally not thrilled with the quality of the fruits and vegetables. This time of year, strawberries should be ripe not the tasteless specimens I found around town. I was thrilled that pineapple was on the breakfast buffet one morning until I bit into the chunks and tasted fish. The crepes around town have turned me off of them for a lifetime and all of us refuse to abuse our arteries tasting “poutine” a Quebecois staple of French fries, cheese curds and gravy. I also noticed way too much cheese being used in too many meals. I know my body can be ornery if I don’t get my daily dose of organic ancient grains: quinoa, millet, amaranth and faro. With a daily diet of meat and cheese, my body just shuts down.

Also the cost of dining in this town can be downright expensive. I read in their newspaper today that Canada is proud that the average net worth of a Canadian is over $400,000.00, much more than the United States average, about $77,000.00 I felt I was hemorrhaging money each day at meal time. Main courses in a fine restaurant can run $30.00 to $52.00. And prices didn't seem to drop when we left the tourist areas and explored the residential outskirts. Auberge Le Saint-Gabriel, the oldest inn in North America, just around the corner from our hotel, in a cottage recessed from the street seemed like a romantic (but costly) option.

In my hunt for affordable restaurants (as a service to Americans with low net worth), I was thrilled to come upon Crème de la Crème (Avenue de la Commune at Rue Sainte Jean de Baptiste) where the $15.95 table d’hote 3 course dinner was an affordable and delicious option. You can enter on Rue St. Paul (the cobblestoned oldest street in Montreal, but also on Rue de la Commune around the corner. Rue de la Commune is the rear of Rue St. Paul and although not ornatly decorated as water came up and lapped against these buildings at one time, it is worth exploring for the unique shops and understated restaurants along this strip. While you are there, check out the revitalized Old Port, Ile Ste. Helene and Ile Notre Dame for relaxation and recreation. You will need a minimum of three, but ideally 4 days to put a dent in this expansive city. Despite my quibbles about the food, Montreal is a vibrant, clean and beautiful city with friendly residents who quickly switch from French to English to help you. It must be experienced at least once.



Marriott Spring Hill Suites, 445 Rue Saint Jean-Baptiste, Montreal QC H24 2Z7 [phone]

Le Planete Resto Bar, 1451 St. Catherine St., Montreal QC H2L 2HB [phone]

Amphitours, Rue Saint laurent at Rue de la Commune

Restaurant Fripon, 436 Place Jacques-Cartier, Montreal, QC H24 3B3 [phone]

Carlos & Pepe's, 1420 Peel St., Montreal QC H3A 1S3 [phone]

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Photos

Rue St. Paul
Rue St. Paul, the oldest street in Montreal

Rue St. Paul
Don't expect this street to be this empty after 10 am.

Notre Dame
Notre Dame Basilica

Pulpit
The pulpit at Notre Dame

Bank of Montreal
No it's not the Pantheon, it's The Bank of Montreal.

Cityscape of Montreal from Mont Royal
Your reward for scaling Mont Royal

Auberge Le Saint Gabriel
Auberge Le Saint Gabriel, the oldest Inn in North America (c.1754)

Ile Sainte Helene
Former site of the Montreal Expo

Downtown Skyline
The skyline from the river

Interior of Notre Dame
Quite stunning inside

Alter at Notre Dame
I caught this side view coming from the Chapel in the rear of the church.

Habitat 67
This apartment complex and model community was originally designed as a pavilion at the Expo 67 World's Fair

River Cruises
There are many choices for winding up on the water in Montreal.