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Published: December 1st 2011
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Montreal!!
By Rachael
We hadn’t originally planned to go to Canada, let alone to Montreal in Quebec but we heard such great things about the city along the way that we decided we couldn’t miss it! We were slightly concerned before arriving that our lack of French knowledge would be a problem but we were assured that everyone was bilingual and you can get by with just English. So unperturbed we rocked up in Montreal with only our English. We had a nasty surprise when we attempted to get something for dinner – we were feeling lazy and cheap so went to Subway and MacDonald’s. I was very surprised when the woman serving me in Subway, clearly a local, didn’t speak English and I had to order my tuna sub in broken French ‘un sandwhich du thon’ and Jo was hounded by locals shouting at her in French and gesticulating wildly after she asked for ‘ketchup s’il vous plait’ at the counter. Very bemused we ate our food in the corner of MaccyD’s, trying not to reveal our British identities and lack of French speaking skills!
The next day things looked a lot rosier. Our lovely couchsurfing host
had told us more about the city and given us lots of ideas for things to do. Our host left us to go to a ‘rendezvous’ so we decided to begin our Montreal experience by having un café au lait in a little café. I hadn’t realised how much Montreal would feel like being in France, there is so much French culture here – everywhere you turn there are little cafés, creperies, boulangeries etc. It was nothing like Toronto. Quebec is a very distinctive region and its locals seem very proud of their distinct identity.
Our first stop was Vieux Montreal, the oldest part of the city. Here we found pretty little narrow cobbled streets, the beautiful Basilique de Notre Dame, tree lined tiny squares, quaint cafés etc. I felt like I was in Paris! Our host had recommended a popular boulangerie in the area so we went there for lunch and sat in a little square to eat our baguettes whilst feeling very Parisienne. After our lunch we decided to go check out the Basilique de Notre Dame even though it cost $5. It was beautiful inside, but full of groups of tourists and their loud guides, so
we sought refuge in the silent and empty prayer room. Our peace was short-lived as a little French girl decided to come and harass us in French, although we did get as far as understanding her name was Pauline… Eventually a very devout seeming man entered the room and we decided to leave him to it.
That evening we went to a free outdoor contemporary dance show in Parc de la Fontaine which our host accompanied us to. The outdoor stage was in a beautiful setting in the middle of a green park, and the late summer dusk was setting in. I don’t have much experience of contemporary dance and was very impressed with the show, which apparently was inspired by the habits of migratory birds and choreographed by a very important female Montreal choreographer.
Our second day in Montreal was one of our most active of the trip - we walked for about 8 hours exploring the city. First of all, accompanied by our host, we went to an outdoor market that exists year-round. We had a fabulous apricot pastry and café au lait sitting outside for breakfast, then wandered around the fromagerie and boulangerie and all
the amazing fresh fruit and vegetable stalls. Our host left us and we spent a happy couple of hours exploring and buying presents from the shops stocking regional specialities like maple syrup and lavender soap. It was such a pleasant experience just soaking up the atmosphere and mixing with locals.
Afterwards we walked to Parc Mont-Royal, which apparently was designed by the same guy responsible for NY’s Central Park – it was very green and open. We had a picnic in the park – sandwiches and fresh cherries and strawberries we bought in the market. After our picnic we walked all the way to the top of the ‘mountain’ from which we had stunning views of the city. That evening we had a very French evening of bread, cheese and wine - well-deserved after our long walk exploring the city.
The next day (Friday) we moved across the city to stay with Jo’s friend Charles who she had met in Seville teaching English. Charles was the perfect host and insisted on plying us with delicious meals and alcohol throughout our 4 day stay – which was absolutely fine with us! On Friday night we drank wine at his
place until we were definitely tipsy, then got the metro and a taxi to a club where it was 90s night, the music was fabulous!
The next day I believe Jo and I didn’t wake up until 2pm…so it was pretty much a write off! Charles made our day by cooking his signature dish ‘Coquilles St. Jacques’ a delicious fish-pie traditionally served in big shells.
Sunday was a fun, relaxing day enjoying the city. We went to Tam-Tam in Parc Mont-Royal – basically a gathering of drummers, other musicians and anyone who wants to sit around having a picnic or a drink, or a dance. We met up with some other couchsurfers and hung out, then went for some beers (the local ‘Moosehead’ beer). Between us we spoke in a mixture of English, Spanish and French which was fun and made me realise how I really need to improve my French!!
Monday was our last day in Montreal, and Canada. We went shopping for a few essentials plus a quick visit to our favourite shop, Forever 21. Then back to Charles' for another fabulous meal and a massive repacking session before we headed to our final
destination - New York - the next day!
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Montreal. It was refreshing to be somewhere that felt so unlike other North American cities of which we had been to so many recently. It is a very historic old city and you really get a sense of its past as you walk around. At the same time it is a very modern, vibrant city which still manages to feel more relaxed than other cities. It was a pleasure to spend time with people who live there and who are rightly very proud of it. I would definitely say to anyone going to Canada make sure you go to Quebec and certainly to Montreal!
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