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Published: September 21st 2012
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Fortress Louisbourg
View as you approach by the bus transport from the admission center. The process of leaving Newfoundland involved questions about root vegetables. I had to surrender my one potato, even though it was from the USA. Potatoes don’t have any identifying marks for country or province of origin, so it was assumed to be one from the island and therefore not allowed to leave. They even had what looked like a tire and underbody wash device for use on some muddy vehicles. We didn’t get to see it in action, but they are serious about keeping their soil and whatever is in it on the island.
Our ferry ride was smooth and uneventful but did take 7 hours rather than 6 hours. This time we were on the Highlander and it has better accommodations for this length of crossing. There were plenty of seats that were similar to airplane seats, but with more leg room. The time went quickly for us, but we were concerned about Lizzie in the RV. She was having a sleepy day and we left her at 10:30 napping in the hallway. When we got back to the RV she was still in the same spot, but awake. Apparently she had slept a little too long without moving,
Fisherman
He lives outside the fortress and is the first interpreter you encounter. so when she was ready to get up all systems were not going to cooperate. We got her up and she quickly was able to wander around the RV under her own power with her normal limp.
Fortress of Louisbourg We visited the fort on two different days. We’ve been making the most of our Parks Canada Discovery Pass. The first day was foggy and that added to the feel of being someplace different in time. The fort represents 1744 when it was a French fortress. They have an amazing amount of documentation about the people, the households, the buildings and the military that was there at that time. The interpreters represent actual individuals that lived there that year. There is an advantage, in the story telling, of also knowing what happened to that person in the future.
The Park follows the Disney example of having the visitors park their vehicles away from the attraction and then transports them to the entry of the attraction. This strategy adds to the feel of being away from life as we know it….whether it is the Magic Kingdom or a French fort in 1744. We were transported by bus and
Entry gate
Here you are greeted by the sentry. arrived at the house of a fisherman that lived outside the walls of the fortress. He invited us into his house and we heard about his life. Then it was a short walk to the entry gate of the fortress. We were met by a guard and he explained the importance of being on the correct side of the gate at sunset when the gate is closed. He was engaging and entertaining with the travelers entering the fortress. When he queried where we were from and George answered Michigan, the sentry responded “Ah, French.” We looked it up later and he was correct Michigan was part of the French territory at that time and 1744 was the end of a very peaceful period.
We did a walking tour with a Park guide and then wandered the streets of Louisbourg. We watched demonstrations of musket firing and cannon firing. We went in various houses and buildings and interacted with the various characters. Finally it was time for the gate to close and we still hadn’t seen everything we wanted to see.
We returned the next day with the threat of tropical storm Leslie bringing rain and wind. The day
started out as a little windy with occasional light showers but the forecast predicted worsening conditions as the day progressed. Unfortunately they were right this time. We did start to tour the fort with light misty rain that got harder and harder. Eventually there was a nice stream running down the streets washing away the soil and making gullies. We saw a grounds keeper tying back drapes in one of the buildings. Apparently the reproduction wood windows are authentic in letting in lots of drafts. On a windy rainy day like was forecast they were preparing for a lot of water to be forced in and that would soak the drapes. I was glad we had toured the fort the day before in more normal conditions, but this added some realism to what life would have been like in bad weather. Eventually the weather worsened to the point that they evacuated us. Apparently this is a very rare event. It was about 1 ½ hours before closing time, but we felt we had seen enough of the fort and wouldn’t need to return the next day. We were soaked except for where our umbrellas had protected us. Of course with
Man and ram
This was one of the animals he walked through the streets with. It was one of the the details that varied from accuracy as he was Cotswold and that is not what they would have had in 1744. He had the right personality and temperament for interacting with all the people. the wind the umbrellas needed to be carefully directed or they turned inside out very easily in the wind.
http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn-nhs/ns/louisbourg/index.aspx Odds and Ends in Louisbourg While in Louisbourg we visited the lighthouse. Local folks were coming from a few towns away as word had gotten out that the surf was making an impressive display crashing on the rocks. I felt like we were watching fireworks with all the “oohs and ahs.” We also visited the train museum in the afternoon and the Playhouse in the evening. At the Louisbourg Playhouse we heard a Cape Breton fiddler perform. It was fun with lots of toe tapping.
Peggys Cove We moved south and camped in Pictou so we would be near the ferry to PEI. From there we did a day trip to Peggys Cove to see the lighthouse. We were surprised by the swarms of people everywhere. The parking lot was crowded with lots of cars and a couple tour buses. There lots of people walking the street, all around the lighthouse and in the gift shop. George commented to a man (possibly a bus driver) about how busy it was. He replied “It’s not busy
Street scene
Various interpreters are throughout the fort. today…trust me.”
I’m glad we were there when it was not as busy as it could have been. We took our pictures and moved on. Now we will sometimes refer to a place or situation as “This is feeling like Peggys Cove” and the other person knows what is meant by that….it’s nice having shorthand comments.
Odds and Ends The closest we got to Halifax was to stop at the Costco to do some restocking. The clock is ticking and we still need to see PEI and New Brunswick. No matter where we go we can’t see everything, but we try to see enough to have a little sense of that place. It’s time for another ferry ride and this will be our shortest and least expensive one. They charge the toll to leave PEI whether it is by ferry or bridge. That is just so friendly!
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