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Published: November 20th 2009
Gate to Chinatown
New gate in old Chinatown in Vancouver. One of top three Chinatowns in North America prior to it falling out of favor with wave of new immigrants.The tale of two Chinatowns is one of "old" meets "new". Vancouver's Chinatown being old and Richmond's Asian "Golden Village" being new. While we would not recommend visiting Vancouver's Chinatown for either Chinese dining other than Wild Rice, a fabulous restaurant on Chinatown's outskirts, an evening destination, or a contemporary shopping spree, if you appreciate architecture, traditional Chinese culture, and history, then it's certainly worth a look.
For Chinese dining and shopping, head out to Richmond on the Canada Line to the Aberdeen Mall, Parker Place or Yaohan Centre on No. 3 Road in Richmond, or make a special trip to eat at one of the many fine Chinese restaurants in Vancouver and Richmond.
History of Vancouver's Chinatown Vancouver, just 124 years old, is a city of immigrants from all over the world. Vancouver's Chinatown, situated just east of the downtown area, has been the centre of Chinese culture with a heritage dating back to the late 19th century. Chinese male labourers were pioneers as they worked to build the Canadian Pacific Railway and later laboured in the Province's mining, forestry and fisheries industries.
Chinatown grew in the early 20th century as Chinese
Dr. Sun Yat Sen Public Garden
Relax and enjoy the serenity of the public gardens. merchants invested in real estate that extended Chinatown south along Carrall Street, west to Shanghai Alley and Canton Alley, and eventually east along Pender Street to Gore Street. Historically, a handful of wealthy firms controlled much of the business life of Chinatown by contracting workers, importing and exporting, investing in real estate, and manufacturing opium which was legal to manufacture for export only. In the mid 20th century, middle-class merchants owned and operated green-groceries, laundries, and tailor shops around Vancouver. Sadly, even the wealthiest Chinese lived on the margins of Vancouver society due to undercurrents of racism resulting in most Chinese living in Chinatown or neighbouring Strathcona. Associations based on common surnames or place of birth in China were established to provided social activities and social services in Chinatown.
After the Second World War, Chinatown grew as a result of increasing immigration and Vancouverites' increasing appreciation for the appealing, exotic foods and Chinese products to the second largest Chinatown in North America after San Francisco. In 1971, Chinatown's special history and architecture was designated as a historic district. In 1979, Chinese-style elements enhanced the character of the neighbourhood by adding red street lamps and specially paved sidewalk crosswalks. Neon
Chinatown Streetscape
Architecture, street signs and lamp-posts compliment the traditional chinese stores that line the streets. signs and buildings have been restored over the years; however, much of Vancouver's Chinatown has fallen out of favour, partly due to its proximity to the Downtown Eastside. As part of an effort to revitalize Chinatown, the Chinatown Millennium Gate, a four-pillar, three-story high, brightly painted arch incorporating traditional and modern Chinese themes and Western symbols spanning Pender Street was erected to mark the millennium and commemorate the Chinese community's role in Vancouver's history. Despite continuing efforts, Chinatown is no longer as vibrant a community that the Travelling Canucks remember it was 40 years ago.
Walking Tour of Historical Chinatown Just east of the Millennium Gate, a right turn will take you into Shanghai Alley. Also known as Chinatown Heritage Alley, this was the site of the first Chinese settlement in the Vancouver area. By 1890, Shanghai Alley and neighbouring Canton Alley were home to about 1,000 Chinese residents. At the end of the alley is a replica of the West Han Dynasty Bell, a gift to Vancouver from the City of Guangzhou, China. Surrounding the bell are a series of panels relaying some of the areas early history.
Make sure to see the Sam Kee Building
The Sam Kee Heritage Building
At 1.6 meters wide, this is the world's narrowest commercial building! situated at 8 West Pender Street. At just 1.5 m or 6 ft wide, it's the world's most narrow office building - and easy to miss! This two storey building runs from the corner of Pender and Carrall to the lane at the halfway point of the block. Once home to 13 businesses, it was once the only place in Chinatown for residents to enjoy hot baths. There is a tunnel beneath the building that was used as an escape route from raids on opium dens situated on neighbouring Shanghai Alley. The building is also fronted by the only remaining glass sidewalk in Chinatown. Also, check out The Chinese Benevolent Association of Vancouver building at 104-108 E Pender St, which was built in 1901-10 and is considered a Class A Heritage Building.
We always enjoy visiting the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden. This tranquil Ming Dynasty-style garden was the first authentic classical Chinese garden built outside of China. Ming dynasty scholars, the elite of their time, lived, worked and shared their garden with friends and family which was filled with energy, but also offered quiet moments for contemplation. With its asymmetrical arrangement of rocks and plants, its winding
Majestic Chinese Lions
at the Chinese Cultural Centre. paths and corridors, and the vistas that overlook its courtyards, the garden offers a relaxing retreat from the world beyond its walls.
Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden is comprised of a private garden with an entry fee and a public garden. Our photos capture the landscape of the public garden. Adjacent to the garden, the Chinese Cultural Centre Museum and Archives presents an impressive collection of Chinese artifacts and exhibits, such as Ming Dynasty vases and Chinese calligraphy. It also houses the Chinese Canadian Military Museum.
In the 1980s and 1990s, the third wave of immigration was mostly upwardly-mobile immigrants who invested in restaurants, businesses and shopping malls outside of Chinatown. The City of Richmond and other locations began to attract significant numbers of new arrivals from Hong Kong, Taiwan and Mainland China generating competing economic and cultural spheres of influence. Chinatown lost its role as a geographic and cultural centre for the Chinese community with its decline evidenced by the few Chinese restaurants that remain open in Chinatown.
Despite its current state of decline, the Travelling Canucks enjoy the authentic Asian encounter complete with unique architecture, exotic culinary aromas and an array of exotic imported
Entrance to public garden
at Dr. Sun Yat Sen Garden. goods. There is an ambiance that is lacking in the modern, shopping malls in Richmond. The faces of long-time residents in Chinatown tell a story of years gone by when English was not commonly spoken.
When walking into Chinatown, the nicest way to get there is to walk along West Pender Street. Another way to get to Chinatown is to take the Skytrain to the "Stadium-Chinatown" station, a short walk from the main gates at Pender Street. Avoid Hastings Street which is only one block north of Chinatown. With unsightly urban decay and being one of Canada's poorest postal codes, the intersection of Main Street and Hastings is home to a large conglomerate of junkies, which can make a stroll through that intersection a bit unnerving. Hastings Street is a long street starting in Coal Harbour and is safe to walk until you reach Cambie Street. Given its proximity to the Downtown Eastside, we recommend visiting Vancouver's Chinatown during daylight hours . Street people do wander the streets and alleys of Chinatown, so beware.
You do not need half a day to see Chinatown - only a few hours will do. If you would like to eat Chinese,
Trees, Rocks and Water Featured
Three elements to the garden's lovely design. try Wild Rice on Pender Street on the fringe of Chinatown for great food in a modern ambiance.
We recommend Dim Sum at Sun Sui Wah on Main Street, north of King Edward Avenue in Vancouver.
Richmond's Asian Golden Village Richmond's Golden Village district is bound by Sea Island Way to the north, Garden City Road to the east, Alderbridge Way to the south and No. 3 Road to the west. Stop at the Aberdeen Station on the Canada Line and explore the Golden Village, which is anchored by three indoor malls:
• Aberdeen Centre, the largest Asian-themed mall in Richmond, serves Chinese-Canadians from Hong Kong, Mainland Chinese and Japanese customers. Aberdeen is our favourite Asian mall. Daiso, a Japanese discount store is the first outside of Asia and fun to shop.
• Yaohan Centre, originally designed to be a Japanese-themed mall, is a Pan-Asian style mall for Chinese, Taiwanese, Vietnamese, Thai, and Korean customers. It is home to Osaka Supermarket, the largest Japanese supermarket.
• Parker Place is a Hong Kong-style mall featuring Asian-style fashion stores.
Alexandra Road, unofficially known as "Food Street," offers Asian restaurants with Japanese, Vietnamese, Thai, Korean and Chinese cuisine ranging from traditional restaurants
to hot pot and buffet restaurants. Our favorite Chinese restaurant in Richmond is Shanghai River on the 7800 Block of Westminster Hwy. Japanese options in Richmond include: Kirin on the 7900 Block of Westminster Hwy and Matsuyama or Seto Sushi on Alexandra Road.
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