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Hi Y'all
This is it, our final travel blog!
On the bus to catch the Greyhound from Seattle to Canada we came across some young girls from London who were attempting the reversal of what we were doing (West to East Coast) in a shorter time. So we passed on our bountiful travel knowledge to them and wished them luck. Crossing the border to Canada was a much more pleasant experience than when we first arrived in Boston all those months ago. We chatted and joked with the border officer whose main concern was that we had only given Canada a month but the US six!
Arriving in Vancouver with the majestic mountains in the background I took off in search of some cash, as we only had US dollars, leaving F behind again with the bags (alas she didn't earn any money this time!). This task proved more difficult than I would have thought. For some reason up here they don't really like Visa that much, so I had to traipse deep into Chinatown (I know - another one) before I could find a machine that would dole out the lolly. But what a sight those notes were, for there
in my hand, staring up at me was the face of ol' Lizzy herself. Now the money was due to be used to get the bus to the place we were staying, but being us (i.e. too tight to pay the bus fare - F) we ended up hauling all our things through the streets and hills of Vancouver. It took us at least half hour to walk, but luckily our couchsurfing host Nicholas was friendly and welcoming and offered us much needed glasses of water upon arrival. He also has an Austrian couchsurfer who was there for a month.
We only got a short time to spend in Vancouver but did manage to take a long walk around Stanley Park which sits in the harbour. A friend we made from Koinonia in Georgia was coming back home to Vancouver Island, so after some communication difficulties, Keith picked us up and we hopped aboard the ferry with him to the island. As is the norm up here, stunning views abound as we meandered our way through the island chain. Keith and family are living in Cobble Hill, just south of Duncan, and were kind enough to allow us to invade
Vancouver Island
From the top of Cobble Hilltheir home for the next week. That evening I attended a local mankind group, where men sit in a circle and discuss their feelings. It is based on Native tradition and it was interesting to see men being able to express their emotions in front of others.
We spent the next few days exploring the local area, climbing to the top of the local mount, cycling to the shore, visiting the local winery, going to the pub and even trying the local fish & chips (where we judged which were better). At the pub we had planned to eat and have a brew, and after the drinks were poured, we had to pay by card, but this time using our PIN number. Now we hadn't been asked this in 6 months in the US and neither of us could remember it so we had to scramble the money together for the drinks and head home hungry.
One of Keith's daughters is interning at a local eco-village so we popped along for a day to help out, which consisted of me adapting to cleaning the outdoor kitchen, burying rotting animal carcasses in the compost and planting potatoes!
We also visited Victoria,
the state capital of British Columbia, though it is mostly inhabited by the homeless since it has the mildest climate in Canada.
Vancouver Island is a BIG place, bigger than we could hope to cover this time, but we wanted to see more. So we borrowed a car and drove over to Tofino, a cool place on the west coast where all the surfers hang out. Whilst we didn't surf, we did find this fantastic B+B out in the woods, where birds perch outside the window and you are served homemade muffins for brekkie! Oh I almost forgot, F challenged me to a bird trivia game at which I prevailed, much to her annoyance (only because of all my help with the answers! - F). Down from Tofino is a place called Uculet, where we found a meat pie shop (almost impossible to find in the US) and bald eagles galore, soaring over the lakes (though guess who forgot her binoculars?). We stopped off at various locations on the drive back to admire the scenery and go scrambling on rocks. We spent the night at Quallicum Beach, quaint and popular with the older folk (as we discovered at the first
Keeping in shape
Vancouver Island style hotel we went to). Again we found a nice B+B and were duly rested for yet another nature park, with more bald eagles the following day.
On our return to the house we discovered that they are desperate for extra help at the eco-village, as they have a big event coming up and not that many volunteers. So off we trotted down there and were soon pick-axing pig poop whilst singing work songs in the sunshine. The place is called O.U.R. (One United Resource) Ecovillage and the community folk there are really nice, with a mix of young and old. On Saturday we headed to Duncan for an Earth Day celebration, with performers and street stalls. We didn't point out that on Earth Day itself we had actually been travelling several hundred kilometres in the car! After going back to the Ecovillage to clean out bee boxes (and a huge tub of hummus) we head back to Duncan for a night of dancing by the marquee. We can't seem to keep away from the farm as on Sunday we cycled there and back, so we decided that we will move here for a while before exploring the rest of Canada.
During our stay we were given the honour of helping set up and participating in a Sweatlodge. Though essentially a sauna in a tent it is a way that the Native People have connected with their ancestors over the generations. Though F and I are a bit cynical of such things we took part in the rituals, which included looking afters the Elders who came to pour on the water over hot rocks. The Sweat contains Four rounds and I had a pretty intense experience after the first, losing the ability to use my hands and my feet! Now I have been in plenty of saunas and steam rooms but this was something else. As I stood in the lake as I recovered, the setting sun was glistening over the water, a truly magical moment. One that gave me more respect for ancient customs.
Farms are always eventful. None more so than when animals escape, as happened when F left the door open to the chicken coop. I wish I had the camera with me to capture F scrambling to catch the little blighters.
The weekend brought the Youth Convergence. A gathering of young (and old) from the island and
Tofino
Where the surfers come beyond. The event was designed for young(ish) people to understand more about themselves and the Earth. It was really cool to engage with teenagers who were so interested in their environment. The first night ended with us sitting around the campfire giving gifts to each other and singing songs. On Saturday the rains came (they didn't really stop for 5 days!) but we were still able to move 'mountains' (Timber) and enjoy a picture show from an eccentric old Englishman here called Roger. He's a really colourful character and was once known for growing weed in California, though it seems they all may be at it soon. On Sunday I pickaxed the fields whilst F sang to the elements and praised the plants!
Other work here consists mainly of moving one form of animal dung, or gravel, from one place to the other. This is surprisingly refreshing with F and I both enjoying the feeling that community brings. Community life is definitely something we want to experience more of. It is strange that I know more about these people here, names, interests, history, etc after a week than I do in my street back home that has ten/twenty times the
Having fun
Stopping off to enjoy the scenery on the drive back from Tofino. number of people. You never feel alone here/detached that you are back home wondering/worrying about what is going on behind your neighbours' doors. Being able to look out of our window and not see cars or rows of terraced houses, but to see kids and animals frolicking in fields. The fields that we have neglected for so long on an Earth we have used and abused. We even considered staying out here for another 3 months to intern (don't worry mums, I said we couldn't do it, this time! - F)! This may not be the 'Real World' but here the issues of the economy, swine flu or Arsenal losing don't seem to affect me. If I ask myself when have I felt this calm before it would have to be in Koinonia, Virginia ...
Our leaving the Ecovillage was pretty eventful. Our car had been parked in the same place since the weekend and with all the heavy rain the ground was pretty sodden. Essentially we were stuck in the mud, so whilst I tried to figure out what to do F went to get one of the guys to pull us out with their truck. We were staying
Anyone for honey?
Cleaning bee boxes at the Ecovillage in the Sanctuary, a place of calm serenity made of cob that is situated on a lower level with a lake along the road. Well somehow the guy who came to help us managed to almost to back into the lake, saved only by a tree, so he was stuck as well. This meant that another truck had to come down to help get him out. Before that could happen the tree had to come down so one of the guys stripped down to his shorts to wade into the lake and saw the tree. When it was down the truck could be pulled out but at the first attempt the rope between the trucks snapped. In the meantime myself and another guy had managed to help F drive out of the hole so in the end the trucks weren't needed. Well we do like to leave an impression on people, I'm just sorry we forgot to get a picture of the whole thing! As you have probably gathered by now we decided not to head inland to see more of Canada - that can be saved for another trip. Instead we decided to stay amongst our new friends, eating
The Ecovillage
My attempt at being arty communal meals, sitting by the campfire whilst watching the stars and dancing, inside and out.
A special note must go out to Keith and the Hirsche family. They first met us in Georgia and kindly offered us their place to stay in Canada. The love and warmth they have shown us is a testament to their faith in humankind. So to Jan, Krista, Kailee and Keith, Thank You and may God be with you on your journeys.
So back to Vancouver we sailed, back to Nicholas and Andreas (the Austrian couchsurfer). Vancouver is one of the most picturesque cities we have seen, perfectly embraced by the snow-capped mountains and the ocean. We (I) decided it would be good to enjoy the views as we took a long, long walk to the university (UBC). Though ideally situated amongst the trees and by the sea, some idiot (probably a Brit) decided to fill the campus with monstrous 1960s style concrete buildings. That night was Andreas' birthday so we had a nice meal to celebrate. The following day a few of us headed to Deep Cove, a beautiful spot where we planned to hire a speedboat (not very enviro I know). After
avoiding a confrontation with an angry 'Native' on the bus we discovered that it was not the season for boats, so we spent the day soaking up the sun and going on a hike (that's better - F). The walk prepared us nicely for the 28 hour Greyhound bus ride back to San Fran, which began the next day. US immigration were pretty easy going this time, much better than when we arrived in Boston - we could even joke with them. They gave us an extra 6 months to stay, though we're only looking for a few days!
So here before the Golden Gate we sit, waiting for our flight home (and desperately looking for last minute pressies).
I must admit that I have some trepidation about coming home. Though I miss friends and family, I fear that my world that has been this continent for the last 7 months will shrink back to my bedroom. But I am confident that I can achieve the goals I set for myself, whether writing, politics or travel, so I have work to do.
The real beauty of this trip has been the love, friendship and hospitality that complete strangers have shown
Moving Mountains
Singing whilst we work us, whether it be couchsurfing or wwoofing, or just bumming on someone's floor. Too many interactions in our lives are based around commercial gain, but for these people all they have wanted from us is our company and our story. The story of two lovers who flew over the sea on a voyage of discovery, about ourselves, our planet and a small place we call North America.
F writes - here's hoping to seeing you home folk at some point when we return, and thanks for reading the blogs, hope you've enjoyed our stories and watch this space for the next lot!! xx
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Chris Durdin
non-member comment
It's over
Great story telling over many months ... well done to you both. Hope you cope when you come back to earth (well, Essex), with a bump.