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Published: July 15th 2010
Queen B's coffee shop
Over looking the harbour in Queen Charlotte cityPriorities (prahy-awr-i-tees)
highest or higher in importance, rank, privilege.
So here we are in the Queen Charlotte Islands. Where do we begin to describe this beautiful, tranquil island, these amazing communities and the kind and genuine people? I will try, but it really won't be the same as being here and experiencing it for yourselves.
The Queen Charlotte Islands are about 300 km long, in a rough triangular shape from 100 km wide across the top, tapering to a point at Cape St. James at the south end. Tucked under the coastline of islands that form the Alaska panhandle they are 75 km from the American border, approximately 120 km west of the outer islands of the northern BC coastline. The Islands have just had a name change. In honor of the Haida First Nations People who live here the Islands are now called Haida Gwaii "The Islands of the People". (pronounced "high-da-g-why). There are actually 2 main islands here, Graham Island in the North and Moresby Island in the South. We have decided to stay on Graham Island. The highway through the island is still highway 16, the Yellowhead. It jumps the ocean and continues on the island.
Rainbow Gallery
What a mess of stuff!!!! (Kinda cool eh?) We arrived on Haida Gwaii at approximately 6:00 p.m. in the community called Skidegate. There are 6 main communties on the Island and we are determined to see them all. We decided earlier we were going to camp on the Island, so found the Misty Meadows campground about 40 kms from the ferry dock in a community called Tlell. Tlell has a bakery here called Bite Me Bakery. Isn't that funny?? After we had set up camp we realized we had no grogeries so back to town we went to buy some groceries. What we forgot of course was that this is a small laid back island and the grocery store closes earlier here than at home. We ended up buying very expensive groceries at a convience store. Lesson learned.
The next morning we decided to explore this island staring at the south end, which is Queen Charlotte. This village has about 1000 people. The main industries are logging and fishing. Queen Charlotte is a quaint little city that is the tourist hub of the Island. We stopped at Queen Bee's coffee house for a lazy and relaxing coffee and an enormous slice of rubarb bread pudding.
Hmmm!!!!! We met a very interesting fella there named Robert Randall Clayton. Robert shared with us some of his island priorities. He shared that the most important thing he has learned while living on this island is that our lives are always in a pattern of ''ebbing and and flowing''. When your life is èbbing you need to ebb with it and when it's '' flowing'' you need to flow with it. No sense trying to ebb when you're flowing or flow when you're ebbing, just know that this is how life needs to work. Thanks Robert Randall Clayton, we will try to remember your island words of wisdom and apply them to our lives. We also met Jack from the Rainbow Gallery. Jack and his wife own and operate the Rainbow Gallery and have for the last 45 years. The gallery is FILLED inside and out with all kinds of interesting things. Things Jack has made, things he has had commissioned, and things he has found along the way.
After we totally explored Queen Charlotte, we carried on to Skidegate. Skidegate is one of the two Hadia communities on the Island. Skidegate is where the big museum is
Haida canoe
More incredible craftsmanship and where the Haida people have on display some canoes they have carved, some amazing totem poles and some of all of these in process. Fasinating work and stories behind each of these carvings.
Just past our campsite is a trail that leads to Pesuta. Pesuta was a 200+ foot log carrier that never made it's destination. The hike there is about 5 kms each way. They say that each year a little bit more of this ship disappears because of the effects of the ocean. The hike is so cool. The first half is hiking through moss-covered old forest. I bet that in some places the moss on the ground and on the trees is at least 2 inches thick. If we used the wharped sense of our imagination we could make it seem kinda scary and creepy. The second half of the hike is on the beach, through hard packed sand, loose deep sand, inches thick small rocks and navigating larger boulders. Quite a challenging hike. The end of the trail is the Pesuta. So interesting and so glad we got to see it before it totally disappears. What we found out by reading the brouchure later
Old Forest
Kinda creepy, but beautiful was that this hike is really intended to take the better part of the day. We left the trail head at 7:00 pm thinking we had lots of daylight left and ended up being back at 10:45 pm. (and that's only because we booked it on the way back because we didn't want to be in the creepy forest in the dark.) Anyway got back to camp and, Amanda, my ''heaps'' (hips)were so sore. Another lesson learned. Guess we have not yet changed our priorities and still are in a hurry.
The next day we decided to check out another campground on the north side of the island. We found and set up camp at the Hidden Island campground. Oh the feeling of a long warm shower. 😊 😊 Oh I just about forgot..... about 10 minutes into our journey to the north side of the island, (only about an hour trip) we were joined for about 30 seconds by a beautiful soaring bald eagle. He flew right along beside us. I swear if my arm was about 6 feet longer I could have reached out and touched him. Took our breath away. I'm sure that if we talked
Pesuta
beached logging ship with the Haida people here, this encounter would have some significant meaning, but whatever the meaning may be, we were in awe of the experience.
We were told by Brian and Deb, the owners of Hidden Island that the one thing we absolutely needed to do while at North Beach was to go crabbing. Deb told us that you just walk in the water and easily pick the crab out of the knee deep water. How cool would that be?? Can't wait for crabbing. Went into Masset to do some grocery shopping and check out the town. Not allot in Masset. Seems to be more of a traditional town.
July 07, 2010 we woke up to clouds and overcast skies. We wanted to check out North Beach and nothing, certainly not cloudy weather was going to deter us. (North Beach is at the end of the road on the North side of the Island). Well... as we got closer and closer to the beach it got cloudier and cloudier and more and more fog and mist in the air. Still...... we were going crabbing. Got the the beach after about 10 km of gravel road (Thank goodness Rene is
not afraid of driving on some gravel. He is such a good driver). We sat at this beautiful beach and even the fog and clouds could not dampen our spirits. Rene brought the lighter along and within minutes he had this amazing beach fire going. So glad I brought this handy guy with me. 😊 Within an hour or so the fog and mist lifted and our beautiful beach became a spectacular beach. We attempted to go crabbing, but the water was too rough and the crab were no where to be seen. Oh well, maybe next time.
We stayed at North Beach until about 4:30 and then went around the corner to hike to Tow Hill and the Blow Hole. Another amazing hike. Breath-taking views at the top of Tow Hill. We returned to camp, tired but feeling totally fulfilled with another day of adventure and fun. Had fish and chips at the Hidden Island campground which we were told is the best fish on the island. We agree!!!
The following day we woke up late, packed up camp and headed out to see the other communities of Haida Gwaii. We are leaving the Island tonight at
11:00 pm so we need to pack the rest of this island into today. Checked out Masset again and Old Masset. Old Masset is the other Haida community. Some local artisans, some more totem poles and not much else. Lots of broken down, neglected homes. Kinda sad. Down the road to Port Clemens. Again not much happening in Port Clemens that we can take the bike too. Some more incredible trails to explore, but we have had our fill now of hikes for a few days.
Because our ferry leaves out of Skidegate again, we are going back to Queen Charlotte for the rest of the day. On the way to Queen Charlotte we stopped at some local artisans. The Sitka Studio, full of local gems, drawings, carvings, and books. The Crystal Cabin, more local crafts etc., and then to Ernie Burnette's Wood Carving Studio. Ernie Burnett is a local carver who carves different sizes of boxes, trays and other ornamental wall hangings. Ernie shared with us that one doesn't come to the island to make money and get rich, rather one lives on the Island to live close to nature and to live close to quiet, clean living.
Beach fire
Fire on North Beach We are kinda sad to leave this island with so many interesting people and stories, incredible scenery and so much serenity, but we need to continue our travels. This Island is exactly what our souls needed at this specific time. We are examining our own priorities on this journey and I can't really think of a better way to start to examine them as we slow down the pace of our lives and examine what is really important to us. It's hard to slow down though when we are used to moving very fast and accomplishing so much in a short period of time. Even on this tranquil island, we wanted to "stuff" everything and every experience into a short time, but we just couldn't and so, one of our new mottos has become. We know we can't do everything, so we will pick some of the must do's and leave some for another visit. If we do and experience it all there will be no reason to return and we may want to return one day.
Jack, the owner of the Rainbow Gallery says Haida Gwaii is God's secret gift to Canada. We just want to say "we
Tow Hill
Long hike up the hill to see this amazing sight agree Jack and thanks God for sharing this secret with us . Thanks to all the folks we've met on this Island who have been so willing and open to share their lives with us. It has been a pleasure and a true adventure to make this 4 day diversion.
And so remain....... In the Grip of Grace
Rene and Crystal.
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carla
non-member comment
sloooowing down
How absolutely beautiful it sounds. And again, thank you, thank you for sharing this adventure with us. When I come into work the first thing I do is look for your blog, the next thing I do is read it. The light is flashing on my phone...what does that mean. And to my coworkers here - Never mind, I'll get it done. I'm taking a lesson from you Crystal and sloooowing down. Oh how I look forward to my own adventures. I said this before but you truly have inspired me, my friend! Stay safe and watch out for bears. - Carla