Getting to the heart of Yemen


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Middle East » Yemen
December 9th 2008
Published: March 6th 2009
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Route points


Taking in the Yemen viewpointTaking in the Yemen viewpointTaking in the Yemen viewpoint

Plotting the next step.
At this time of the trip I was getting settled into the differences of lifestyles. With this, going deeper into the traditional areas of the country afforded me the chance to gain a better of sense of what Yemen is really about. For the next 3-4 days, I explored the various towns of Kawkaban, Shibam, Al Tawila and Al Hajjarh. I must admit that I struggled to decide which pictures to post to attempt to show the beauty of the areas. Walking through towns that have been looked over from the modern day, meeting people that are connected to the land, even just seeing the sun set from a remote mountain top village, all of these experiences are challenging to describe in words. Perhaps what I can say best is that with an open mind and heart, one can be quite surprised by the kindness and beauty of a foreign place.

The first town we came upon was Shibam. This village was very historical, and was built right from a mountain side. As the pictures show, there was quite a lot to see. Of course, I don't mean major modern attractions, but more how a different culture looks like. We
Shibam VillageShibam VillageShibam Village

Looking out from the main city square.
only stopped by here for a few hours to walk through.

Next we drove to Kawkaban to stay the night. While our tour guide wanted to take us to the most expensive hotel, we eventually negotiated with the other major hotel for a lower price. While having a tour guide is essential in Yemen, using a guide book and finding what you want can not be under stated! Kawkaban was quite beautiful being so high in the mountains. The best part of this stop was walking down into the neighboring village of Al Tawila. My friends and I spent the morning walking down from a mountain top village on a very scenic path.

Once in Al Tawila, we see a more modernized city in Yemen. By this, there was much more traffic, people and business. Still a small town, but not nearly as peaceful as Kawkaban. We didn't spend more then a couple of hours here.

Next we drove to Al Hajjarh. This was again another village in the mountains. It was a very peaceful place to rest and finally get a modern shower. Be prepared in Yemen, plumbing is a luxury! When entering the town, there was certainly no limit of options of souvenirs we could buy from people. I even tried running away from people so they would stop selling things to me, or offering guides. No luck, and I hate to say this town has grown very accustomed to tourists in a capitalistic way.

Through all of these towns and villages, there were some common themes. One of these is that my companions and I discovered we possessed magical powers to transform rural villagers, child and adult, into merchants of goods all with only our mere presence. Thus, I got into the habit of saying thanks but no thanks often. This wasn't the case for all places though. Secondly, people were kind, open and friendly. It's quite worth noting how meeting people can really alter your impression of them. Last, the mountain views and scenery made an impressive backdrop of the Yemen village style. The feeling of being on the road less travelled was stellar and highly recommended.



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Approaching ShibamApproaching Shibam
Approaching Shibam

This was certainly a historic city!


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