Istanbul Express

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Istanbul stands in a unique geographic position, straddling two continents with one foot in Asia and one foot in Europe. The city is huge and we only have a few days here so we're intending to explore just a small part of it.

Our plane arrives at night and we've made it easy by pre-arranging a shuttle from the airport to our accommodation. From the shuttle it seems there is much less litter around than on the last leg of our trip. Its colder here than we expected with people on the streets dressed in warm jackets. The skyline is unusual, punctuated by domes and minarets of many mosques. We speed past an ancient wall, a bustling fish market and glimpse narrow cobbled streets with welcoming shops and restaurants strung with festive lighting, all providing a taste of what's on offer.

Our hostel is in Sultanahmet within easy walking distance of the major historical sites of the old part of the city. Its the weekend and there are lots of other tourists around. First on our list are Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque. Hagia Sofia is a huge mosque that now operates as a museum, and today the entrance queues are long. We admire the red stonework from the outside and wander through the adjoining square and park with vendors selling roast chestnuts, sweet corn, maps and jewellery.

The soft hazy afternoon light limits the view but seems to accentuate the shapes of the massive Sultan Ahmet (Blue) Mosque. Its courtyard is welcoming and we linger, sitting on the flagstones and taking in the scene. Before stepping inside the mosque we remove our shoes and Tessa dons a head scarf. Inside we are immediately impressed by its spaciousness and the high domed ceilings with their intricate tiling. The atmosphere is calm and peaceful and local Muslim people are praying while others take holiday snaps with the tourists.

We head for some local food and sample a kebap and some meatballs washed down with apple tea (big mistake on the meatballs, but more on that later). On the way to the fish market we visit the Little Hagia Sofia Mosque. Nearby we notice a sign for the studio of a feltmaker and pop in out of curiosity. Its a great discovery. Ikonium Studio, run by the friendly Mehmet and Theresa has walls and floors adorned with their creations. Kilims, carpets, felt wall hangings, hats and silk scarves with felt detail. They even make and use their own natural dyes. We're very impressed and Tessa and I sign up for a workshop.

The nearby fish market is excellent in a completely different way. From sole to sardines to snapper to swordfish, all looking very fresh and beautifully displayed. Lots of local people are haggling over fish and there's loud banter between vendors vying for customers. The seafood restaurants look inviting, but the kebap and meatballs are enough for the moment so we pick our way through the narrow streets back to the hostel.

Keith and I are happily snoozing when we're woken by some unusual yet familiar sounds (reminiscent of Guatemala) eminating from the bathroom. Its the return of the meatballs. Why is it that its only after the fact that you hear "never eat meatballs in Istanbul"? Tessa gets a good clean out but fortunately recovers fairly quickly.

We take the next day at a slow pace but still manage to walk the waterfront on the Golden Horn of the Bosphorus Strait. Its Sunday and loads of people are out fishing from the bridges and eating fresh sardine sandwiches by the water. Keith and I share one while Tessa looks the other way. Its good!

The nearby spice market is packed and full of colour. We jostle through the crowds, browsing but avoiding eye contact with the vendors. Occasionally we get trapped but now we're more skilled at deflecting their attention. We find a quiet cafe, have a 'tourist tea' and watch the world go by.

On the way back we wander through the Topkapi Palace gardens with large trees and great views over the Bosphorus. Its obviously the place for romance with young couples perched on bench seats enjoying each other's company unchaperoned. The benches are tastefully spaced apart and red roses are available to those who want to earn more points.

In the evening while Tessa rests at the hostel, Keith and I head out with some fellow travellers for a Turkish bath and more tea.

The next day we go in different directions, Tessa and I doing the felt making workshop and Keith exploring more of the city. He visits the Galata tower, the Grand Bazaar, more mosques and fits in a sunset cruise on the Bosphorus. One of his highlights is tracking down a nice lunch for one dollar.

Tessa and I, meanwhile, learn wet felt-making techniques from the masters. Mehmet has been pronounced a 'national living treasure of Turkey' by UNESCO, and he and Theresa are making some really creative and beautiful products. They even make Dervish hats and costumes (for those whirling characters we don't have time to see while we're here). Together with an Australian fellow traveller, Peta, we are guided through the felt making process and its a very creative and rewarding day.

Then its time for us to leave Istanbul. Although its been a very short stopover we're impressed by the rich history, the buildings, the peacefulness of the mosques, the amount of care taken in the presentation of produce and the comfortable atmosphere where you can lounge around and eat with your fingers.

We're leaving with many ideas and, of course, the desire to return some time in the future.

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Photos

Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque
The crew

An Ikonium scarf
With Little Hagia Sofia Mosque

Learning from the master
Mehmet, a living treasure