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Published: October 13th 2009
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On our wedding day, I said that I considered myself the luckiest man in the world as, in my opinion, I was marrying the most beautiful woman in the world.
Now it just so happens that having arrived in Syria there are at least 20 million other people that are also of the same opinion. At first I think Dee enjoyed the celebrity status to which she had escalated on receiving her rightful title of the most beautiful woman in the world (from hereon I will simply abbreviate to TMBWITW). But she quickly got tired of the extra attention and just wished for her old life back without the hordes of Syrian paparazzi.
A few examples of the attention that TMBWITW, and also I am proud to say, my blonde haired, multi freckled wife, received:
1 A mother and family were sitting in a door way, and mum smiled and welcomed us to Syria as we passed, before quickly nodding to her sons and flicking here eyes to indicate that TMBWITW was passing and they should get a look quick.
2 There are many barber shops in Syria (and throughout the Middle East, but I clearly haven’t
visited any of these) and as we were passing one, there was a gentleman half way through an open razor shave (his face and neck having been fully lathered). As we passed he sat up so quick to catch a look at TMBWITW I thought the poor man lucky not to have his throat cut.
3 Finally, and perhaps most funny of all, we were walking on the footpath on one of the bridges in a town called Hama (there are many bridges in the lovely town of Hama, and on them many water wheels called Norias) when 2 teenage boys happened to be walking in the opposite direction. One was so keen on ensuring that he maximized the opportunity and that his eyes did not for a second avert from gazing at TMBWITW, that he walked straight into the back of his mate, tripping both of them up.
But joking aside, the people in Syria are some of the most welcoming and friendly people in the world. Every town we have been in people on the streets have greeted us and welcomed us, all eager to engage us in conversation and learn more about where we are
from and what we think of their country.
We arrived here from Cappadocia on a night bus via a town on the Turkish side of the border called Antakya (referred to as Antioch in the New Testament, and Hatay by the locals). Our plan was to stay a night before venturing across the border. But, without any undue disrespect to its residents, Antakya was pretty grim, and it took less than 45 minutes in its town centre before we made a dash back for our bus and onwards for the Syrian border.
The border was an absolute breeze, and it wasn’t long before we were in Aleppo - a large city in north Syria just over the border. Turkey is a fully paid up member of the west in comparison to our arrival in Aleppo. It is a buzzing city, chaotic traffic, hustling people, markets everywhere selling everything. In particular abundance are spices, herbs, teas, coffees and soaps of every description. The variety of scents that are on offer everywhere in Aleppo are amazing (both good and bad) and I am sure something that will be true of many cities that we visit.
A particular highlight was to
pass a fishmonger who was standing at his counter ankle deep in live fish, maybe 40 or 50 of them, and each one possibly a foot and a half to 2 feet long. Would you like a fresh fish sir? Bend down, pick up, chop, here you go. They don’t come fresher than that!
From Aleppo we headed south to Hama, a more conservative city and a little less used to tourists. Great for our wallets as a falafel sandwich, easily a filling lunch, is SP£25. That’s about 30p.
We went on a day tour while in Hama to see Apamea (more Roman ruins) and Crac des Chevaliers, a castle built by the crusaders and described as the finest castle in the world by TE Lawrence. Our taxi man drove us and an Italian couple, Umberto and Michaela around for the day. Best part was his car though. He drove a 1952 Pontiac, and had owned it for 34 years himself. Unfortunately we forgot the camera, but interested readers can see a photo at the following link
http://www.avonhill.com/thumbnails/classic/1952_Pontiac_Fleetleader.jpeg
That evening being a Friday (as the weekend is Thursday / Friday this is the lively night of
the week) we went to a local café. We sat in the family section, drank some tea, played some backgammon and availed of the local nargileh or sheesha - they smoke this all over the middle east and it consists of apple (or sometimes strawberry) flavoured smoke which you smoke through a large pipe. When in Rome…
Anyway, me being in the company of TMBWITW didn’t escape the locals, and while the older among them were happy to stare from a distance, the children approached us in their droves. All eager to speak to us, here our strange language, have their photo taken with us and even touch the amazing blonde hair (TMBWITW didn’t mind). A few gave us local cakes and biscuits to eat with our tea, and laughed at our inability to play backgammon with any obvious skill. We had a great night.
Next we ventured to Palmyra in east Syria in the desert in search of more Roman ruins. They are the best preserved in Syria owing to the dry weather. The desert and the ruins are spectacular at sunset, and (having beat TMBWITW out of bed at 5am) also at sunrise.
Unfortunately, the
ruins and their tourism is the only local industry and the people show all the signs of it. It just means you get hassled all the time and they are all on commission from hotels, restaurants and tour guides. Little unfortunate for such a wonderful setting.
Finally Damascus where we spent 4 lovely days exploring, eating, drinking tea and meeting some fantastic people. It is another amazing city, vibrant and easier to navigate than Aleppo. The Old town in particular is great fun.
We stayed with Ivor (a friend of Niall’s) and his girlfriend Anastasia who are lucky enough to be living in Damascus at the moment. They were fantastic hosts and meant that we could chill out and recharge a little from the constant travelling.
We also met Rami, married to Nora who is also volunteering with Jami Bora and is in Kenya at the moment. Rami is from Damascus and showed us the city as only a true local could. He brought us for dinner and ordered the best food we have eaten the whole trip. We think that Rami must be famous all over Syria for his kindness and generosity, but he completely denied
this. We still think it must be true.
So next we hope to explore the Lebanon and Beirut and then head on to Jordan, via Damascus again.
Hello to all, and keep your messages coming.
All our love
Niall and Dee
Epilogue: Small note, but we have started to read classic books on account of them being available in bookstores here. Has anyone read Charles Dickens recently? Wow. Great Expectations is just brilliant. Can’t believe we haven’t read these already. Dee has moved on to some GB Shaw until we can replenish in Beirut.
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Dave Singh
non-member comment
Wow, who new !!!
Fantastic story!. Travel safe. Dave