Staying in the Souq!

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And so, week 5 on the road and I seem to have landed in Qatar. Actually not quite five weeks, I think I got a few days at home but it just didn’t work out. I kept leaving my laundry in a bag, ready for collection but honestly, the service was rubbish. Or perhaps I’m jinxed - the hotel here managed to lose my trousers for a day and I had to wear shorts to the office. A drop in standards I know but I think I can be excused - it did reach 42C yesterday.

The flight out was uneventful and great value at £340. See, I still try and get value for money, even when it’s not my money (wish the boss was reading this). I really don’t mind taking a short break and changing in Dubai because after 7 hours I’m ready to get off the damn plane anyway. The first flight was completely full and because I stupidly forgot to check-in online I ended up in a middle seat. I tried for an upgrade but sadly those days seem to be long gone. I did see a lady doing the most amazing “fainting” impression, being caught by a conveniently placed steward, then being helped forward for a nice lie down on the new flat beds. Great acting and it seemed to work so maybe I’ll try it on the way home.

I’m staying at Souq Waqif Hotel (http://www.hotelsouqwaqif.com.qa/) which is on the edge of the main Souq in Doha. It’s very small - just 13 rooms but very stylish. All the floors are marble with inlaid precious stones and there’s antique furniture throughout the lobby and corridors. The staff are all very friendly and efficient (apart from the small trouser loss incident). One slight downside is the restaurant which isn’t really part of the hotel - it’s just adjoining. And the downside? Well it’s speciality is fish of all types, shapes and sizes. Great in the evening but not quite so appealing next morning when you only want toast and coffee - the smell does hang on in there!

No boring details about the work aspects - suffice it to say that everything went smoothly. I’m sure my luck will run out soon……..

I took a couple of hours out on Wednesday afternoon to visit the Museum of Islamic Art. This is a world class project which doesn’t get the publicity it deserves. Or to judge from yesterday, the visitor numbers either. I haven’t checked to see who the architect was but it’s a stunning building in a fantastic location right alongside the water. Once inside, you enter a huge six-storey atrium with a glass wall overlooking the water. There are two interlocked curving staircases to the first floor where the main exhibition starts. The website had promised a guided tour at 3:30 but unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) that didn’t happen. I picked up one of the multimedia players instead - (like a chunky MP3 player with a touch-screen) - and started the tour.

In reality, two hours wasn’t nearly enough time, so if you ever find yourself out this way, you should allow a half-day. The exhibits cover the key developments in Islamic art through many Middle Eastern countries and India, Turkey and Spain. Some of the exhibits are in such superb condition you’d swear they were recent until you hear the commentary and discover they date back 500 or 600 years.

And finally the Souq. It's called either Souq Waqif or the Irani Souq and is a massive maze of narrow lanes and alleys. First time inside it's easy to panic and imagine yourself wandering round for days but after a couple of trips it gets easier! If in doubt, follow the crowds - they're generally heading towards the food highway which is the main artery. I tried a few photos but couldn't do it justice: without flash, too dark - with flash, all washed out. Rumour has it you can buy anything but I couldn't find any pirate CDs no matter where I looked. Children's bikes, pota and pans, underwear or kittens - no problem. Some coriander or a new parrot? This is the place. I think what TravelBlog needs is a way to post the smells alongside the photos, then you'd get the idea.

There's a wide choice of reataurants from traditional Arabic through Chinese and all the way back to Italian. I'm just back from a little place on the edge of the Souq, run by Malaysians and serving a really tasty Nasi Goreng. It's Thursday night so the weekend tomorrow and the alleys are packed with families, kids, teens, grandparents all taking a stroll as the heat subsides. But I'll miss the weekend because I'm on the morning flight back to chilly old England!

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Photos

Museum of Islamic Art
The main staircase

Mask used in battle
Guaranteed to scare the enemy

Museum Balcony
Overlooking the waterside

Comments

[Keryn]

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