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Published: August 13th 2015
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The Middle East provides cities that straight away evoke thoughts of mystique, labyrinth esque alleys and exotic markets. Cairo, Damascus, and for me Muscat are such cities and I couldn't wait to contrast a modern city of the region like Dubai with the more traditional.
Arriving on the flight from Khasab, what immediately struck me was how flat and desert like the region had become again, although this changed completely by the time we got to Muttrah, about 25kms from the airport. On arrival we drove through the new part of Muscat on a modern highway dotted with shopping malls and McDonalds. Almost completely flat until we arrived at the old port for the city of Muscat, Muttrah which is hemmed in by mountains which many years gone by would have made the city easier to defend but today restricted its growth which only adds to the appeal. It has a wonderful Corniche lined with restaurants, shops and mosques. We arrived at our hotel late afternoon, and due to trouble with the car we hired, only managed to fit in a quick wander of the Corniche before calling it a day. But we awoke the next day ready to explore
the old part of the city.
We decided (Ok I decided!) to take in a long walk from Muttrah to Old Muscat. About 7km, which isn't a long distance I know, but the days were reaching 40f! But we set off in the morning, took plenty of water and had a few rests along the way. Setting of from Muttrah we followed the long Corniche round the bay. I hadn't noticed before but up in the mountains that restricted this part of the city were little forts, a little bit bigger than watchtowers. These forts followed us all along the way to Old Muscat, some restored and in use by the army, some crumbling away. In some places the forts where joined by a wall, I was probably looking at the remains of the Great Wall of Oman! The Corniche was dotted with statues of marine life including Dolphins, and for some bizarre reason, Goldfish as well as a giant incense burner. There where a few parks along the way to stop, rest and enjoy the wonderful sea views. Eventually we arrived, at the gate of the old city. We learnt here that until the 1970s these gates where
locked every night, incredible to think how the city and the country has come from those days. We stopped here at Bayt al-Zubair, a restored house that now doubles as a museum and gallery. Showcasing traditional Omani weapons, pictures of the city from 50 years ago and much more it was quite interesting as far as museums go! After a quick stop for lunch, we turned the corner and found ourselves outside the Sultans Palace. Approached by a long formal colonnade the grand palace is a burst of colour. Although closed to the public we were able to follow the palace walls round to the sea to spot two more forts, these a lot more towering and imposing seen as even today they are manned to protect the palace. We jumped in a taxi back to Muttrah to spend the afternoon wandering the old Souq. Easy to get in but difficult to find your way out, the souq is big, bustling and amongst the tourist shops has a few interesting antique shops. Put together with textile shops adding the colour and incense shops burning frankincense (which Oman is famous for) the souq was a great place to wander. I enjoyed
people watching at one of the entrances where before evening prayer old men meet and talk animatedly about the day just gone. We finished our day eating at a rooftop restaurant with wonderful views of Muttrah spread out beneath us.
The next day we awoke early to visit the Grand Mosque, relatively new it was built a gift from the Sultan to his nation. And it is simply stunning, one of the best I have had the fortune of exploring. From the outside the design is almost understated, but still very imposing. But inside, wow! Huge chandeliers, the worlds second largest hand-loomed carpet, all richly decorated with traditional Islamic tiles. It is simply breath taking. The kind of building that doesn't need a 'Be Quiet' sign when you enter, as the beauty of it renders you speechless anyway! After a while admiring the interior we dragged ourselves outside to wander the formal gardens and gaze upon the exterior some more.
Afternoon approaching we grabbed some lunch before wandering round a protected mangrove park, and then took an afternoon drive beyond the city remains to a small village called Yiti. The drive through the mountains was stunning, passing through
little villages with grazing goats and playful children and all this no more than 30 minutes from the capital city! It was a great taste of the days to come. That evening, our last in Muscat, we spent sat on the Corniche and wandering one last time through the Souq.
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Viqar Ul Haq
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Muscat - The Capital
Muscat is really a wonderful city. It is very modern and has a touch of the old Arabian peninsula, the rugged mountains and the serene Arabian Sea lapping at its coasts. It has a very well laid out shopping mall and a variety of modern hotels and restaurants to savour. A must visit stop when in the UAE (Dubai & Abu Dhabi).