Hedonic Halloumi

Middle East » Cyprus
September 10th 2004

Published: March 11th 2008

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Yellow Head

Graffiti

interesting choice of words... I wonder who have done this now?

Hedonism seems to be a way of life on the distant Mediterranean island of Cyprus. A party spot not that different from say, Ibiza or Ko Samui, where the world’s youth gather to sunbathe, club and go wild.

Like all of these areas most of the people who travel here seem to leave their inhibitions at home. They are game for anything and the most pressing matter at hand is to have fun. Throughout the day, the white sand beaches are covered with bronzed girls strolling about openly in nothing but skimpy thongs and Gucci glasses as muscled thugs meander around them with a drink in hand and one thought in mind. Some get lucky, some don’t, but they all seem to be thinking the same thing. The numerous bars and clubs that line the beaches and streets fuel the party on a 24 hour binge and their thumping drone is audible from sunset to sunrise. This seems to be the way of life in Ayia Napa town, an area of Cyprus that continues to attract a raging crowd of mainly British and Scandinavians tourists throughout the year. It’s hedonism at its best.

If can break yourself away from

The UN

here to protect and serve

the Ayia Napa pleasure zone there is also a completely different side of this small island nation to explore. And it is seemingly worlds away from the Ayia Napa party vibe. I had been largely ignorant of this country, and admit that I didn’t even know that it existed, until I met my good friend, Sotos the Cypriot. After years of hearing his tales and seeing pictures of this island paradise I knew I had to go.

Cyprus is one of the few world nations that is situated on an international crossroads. It is like that of Russia and Turkey in that its territory just so happens to be situated in more than one continent. Technically it is considered part of Europe, and it is part of the EU, but geographically it is usually listed as part of the Middle East and it is also only a short boat ride away from countries such as Turkey and Lebanon.

This makes Cyprus a highly sought after strategic location. It was a part of the British Commonwealth for a good part of the 20th century and the British still maintain a large base on the southern half of the island.

"Chocolate Love"

He took quite the liking to his Sophia

The territory is also highly disputed with the Turkish and after the Turkish invasion in the 1970’s the island has been divided by the so called “green line” that continues to be patrolled by the UN. Despite this, the overall feeling on the island is that of peace. It is divided by this line and there is an undeniable tension between both sides but for me, the average visitor, it is rarely felt or seen. This is especially so for Ayia Napa.

Both Cyprus and Turkey are countries that still push the idea of compulsory military service and every male is required to serve. My friend Sotos and his brother had also spent a number of years in the army as part of this service. It was very interested to hear his stories and have an insider take me around the more disputed areas and show me a side of the country that many outsiders don’t usually have the chance to experience or see. We wandered around ghost towns close to or on the green line that had been abandoned since the invasion in the 70’s and peaked looks at the manned gun towers on the Turkish side of

Perfection

the line. We also met up with his old general and sat down for a chat, while he ordered his military peons to bring us rounds of ice cold frappes. It was an interesting experience to say the least.

It was one of the more interesting countries that I have had the chance to visit and the trip was only heightened by the fact that I had a good friend there. Thanks for taking care of me buddy! I hope that I can go back there soon. I miss the Cypriot Meze, all of your father’s tropical fruit and, of course, the babes of Ayia Napa. You know my door, wherever it may be, will always be open, too.

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