Advertisement
Published: December 20th 2022
INTRODUCTION:
Scotland has a multi-layered history based in a turbulent past. There are hundreds of castles, fine whiskey, kilts, bagpipes and it is the birthplace of golf. The official animal is the unicorn. The unicorn has a reputation for nobility & purity and most importantly, it is the mortal enemy of the lion, the figurehead of England. Scotland has always had a troubled history with the English government that continues today.
It is said that if standing at a bus stop, say hello to an Englishman and they will respond. Say hello to a Scotsman and prepare for a 2-hour conversation. The people are generally down-to-earth and hospitable. In Ireland they speak Gaelic pronounced gay-lick, in Scotland they speak Gaelic pronounced gah-lick. The population of Scotland is approximately 5 1/2 million with only about 60,000 speaking Scottish Gaelic.
Friday, August 19 - Day 59 At the Edinburgh airport I boarded a tram that took me to Princes Street in the centre of the city. A bus took me close to the accommodations, Salisbury Court Campus Accommodation. These are student rooms available while university is not in session. I was very early and definitely could not check in
yet so I left my luggage in storage with many others and left to find some food. The luggage storage area was not very secure so I didn't want to leave the valuables kept in my large daypack behind. This made the long walk to the National Museum of Scotland longer due to the weight. The Museum was very impressive especially the rooms showcasing Scottish history.
My first impression of Edinburgh was not very good. There was garbage everywhere. I wondered if this was due to the fact that the Fringe Festival was in full swing with very sloppy people. I later discovered there was a garbage strike.
Back at the student housing I charged my phone in the lobby then required help from the reception desk logging in to the wi-fi. The room was big. Each single bed had a side dresser, a desk and a chair. The bathroom was tiny and the kitchen had dishes, cutlery, etc. for only two people. There wasn't any tea or coffee. I went out and bought some basic supplies. I actually dislike buying milk, bread, cereal and other items since it is always too much for a couple of days.
I only did so because D. likes to have food available. She always had cheese, crackers and grapes in her bag. It didn't occur to me to bring baggies for such items. The room did not have a tv so it was quiet. I had to hang around to give D. access to the room. It was booked under my name. D. finally arrived in the early evening. Once settled, we went out to dinner.
Saturday, August 20 - Day 60 This morning we walked to the Edinburgh Castle. Much to my disappointment, tickets were sold out. I didn't realize all tickets were full booked online! The whole area seemed rather chaotic with people scrambling about. The castle is at the top of the Royal Mile. The street is actually just over a mile running from the castle to the Palace of Holyrood at the bottom. Its nickname comes from when it was used by the King to travel between the two locations. Nearly every inch is packed with shops, cafes and lanes but also packed with history.
I was trying to think fast to re-plan the day (D had not done any research). Walking along the
Royal Mile we stopped at Gladstone's Land. This is a 16th-17th century merchants 'land' or tenement building. I just bought my ticket when their fire alarm went off and everyone had to leave. We were told to come back later. Continuing to walk, we came to the Real Mary King's Close. We bought tickets but the next show wouldn't start for a while. We stopped at a restaurant called The Copper Still. We ordered & 1/2 hour later, nothing had arrived! I complained that others who arrived later were already served. We ordered again and again nothing arrived, not even water or coffee. Once again I complained and we reordered for a third time. At this point I expected exemplary service but still nothing. It definitely was not our day. We got up and left and went elsewhere for a quick bite since we were running out of time. It was one of the few times I left a negative review on Trip Advisor.
The 18th century City Chambers were built over the sealed-off remains of Mary King's Close leaving the lower levels to survive almost unchanged for 250 years. Costumed characters lead tours through a 16th century townhouse
St Giles Cathedral
a visiting cellistand the home of a 17th century gravedigger. The tour was a little hokey but it was also interesting. The tour guide was well versed in the history. Photos were not allowed. It was hard to imagine having to live in those circumstances even though Mary felt she had enough space to rent a room out.
Back at Gladstone's Land, we had another 1-hour tour. At the time merchants had their shop on the ground floor and living quarters upstairs. The house was 6 stories tall, half the height of the tallest. It was hard to believe so many people lived together in such squalor. Of course, it was common then. Since we were close to St. Giles Cathedral, it was our next stop. There was a cellist giving a free concert so we sat listening until it was time for our free guided tour. Helen was the guide and provided in-depth history around the Catholic to Presbyterian reformation. John Knox was the primary mover behind the conversion to Presbyterianism. I said I was not impressed with his behaviour toward Mary, Queen of Scots. In fact, he was pretty nasty to her. Helen said I had to consider that
he was a man of his time. It did not matter that she was Queen. She was a woman! She tried to convince me to have a kinder view of him and his other positive actions. We spent a long time in the cathedral. It was founded in 1124, heavily damaged by fire in 1322 then damaged again in 1385 by English armies. In 1560 it was stripped of Catholic decoration as part of the Reformation. It was restored again in the 19th century.
By the time we left it the crowds in the street were incredibly thick watching the Fringe participants. Sometimes it was difficult to move anywhere. We decided to find a store selling a small amount of laundry detergent then took a while to find a restaurant that wasn't teeming with diners.
Sunday, August 21 - Day 61 Today was the first of two day tours booked with Rabbie's Tours. The tour was called "West Highlands, Lochs & Castles". It meant being up early to meet at the gathering point in the city centre at 8:00 am. Our kilt-wearing driver/guide was called David. The tour had 12 stops, some brief and some lengthy. We
were a group of 16; most were Americans and a family of 4 from Switzerland. Throughout the day, the sky was amazing with quick changes from blue sky and sunny to overcast to downright gloomy and back again. This is why Scotland guidebooks include a warning to expect any kind of weather. There was a period of pouring rain during the drive but it quit when we stopped at a sight. The day remained on the cool side but it was comfortable.
First we stopped at Blackness Castle. It was built in the shape of a ship on a promontory jutting into the Firth of Forth in the 15th century. The head of a powerful family, Sir George Crichton had it built as a garrison fortress. The Crichton lands & castle passed to James II and became crown property. It was intended to become a nobleman's residence but instead became a stronghold and state prison. Many high status prisoners were held here in medieval times. It was used in Outlander to represent Fort William, where Jamie received lashes from Captain Randall. It was also where Jamie's father died. We did not enter the castle but stopped for photos and
historical background.
Our next stop was Doune Castle that, as part of the tour allowed extra time to visit the interior. Doune Castle is another medieval stronghold built in the late 14th century. It was the seat of Robert Stewart, the 1st Duke of Albany and Governor of Scotland. He was a successful ruler of the kingdom from 1386 to 1420 (except for 2 years) when he died. Doune stopped being a royal retreat when James VI became James I of England. The castle was used as a film set for Monty Python and the Holy Grail, The Outlaw King, Outlander and the Game of Thrones pilot.
We continued on crossing what is called the Highland Boundary Fault Line where farmland becomes mountains and forests. We made a short stop at Loch Lubnaig, a freshwater loch between two mountains in the Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park. Our next stop was in the small town of Killin to see the Falls of Dochart. These are famous white waters at the western end of Loch Tay. Continuing on we stopped at St. Conan's Kirk in the village of Loch Awe. This is the Campbell clan country. The Kirk was
Blackness Castle
on a promontory jutting into the Firth of Forth, 15th century voted one of the top 10 buildings in Scotland. A Campbell architect built it in the 19th century then it was extended in the early 20th century.
Passing through beautiful hills and mountains, we made a quick stop at Finlarig Castle. It was built in the early 17th century on a peninsula between the River Lochay and Loch Tay as a stronghold for the Campbells. The famous Rob Roy visited in 1713. The route led us to Inveraray Castle. In the county of Argyll on the shore of Loch Fyne, it was the seat of the Dukes of Argyll, chiefs of the clan Campbell since the 18th century. The current Duke and his family still live here. I once watched a documentary on Scottish castles that talked of the efforts the Duke and his wife employed to raise income to support the castle and town. The castle holds many antiques, paintings and furnishings. The grounds are lovely and in a picturesque position. It was quite busy so it was difficult to get service in the amount of time we had.
Driving through the 'Arrochar Alps' we stopped in the Glencoe Valley (Gaelic: Gleann Comhann). The area is regarded
as the home of Scottish mountaineering. It is popular with walkers and climbers. The massacre of Glencoe took place here in 1692 when 38 men of the clan MacDonald were killed by government forces allegedly for failing to pledge allegiance to William III and Mary II.
The village of Luss in the county Argyll and Bute, is located on the west bank of Loch Lomond in the Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park. It is a conservation village where settlements began in medieval times. The current homes generally date from the 18th and 19th centuries. They were built for the workers of nearby slate quarries. There were many people boating, canoeing and paddling; the latter wearing wetsuits to insulate from the cold water. I did waggle my fingers in the loch and it was chilly water. David, the guide told the story of the origin of the song 'Loch Lomond' as he knows it. The British were holding two brothers prisoner. A couple of the guards thought they would be funny and said one of the brothers had to die so the other could live. The brothers would have to choose. The older brother immediately hit the younger causing
him to lose consciousness. When the younger brother woke, he discovered his older brother had been put to death. He wrote the song from his dead brother's point of view: "You'll take the high road (life) and I'll take the low road (death) and I'll be in Scotland afore you".
On the way back we passed the Kelpies. These are 30m-high horse head sculptures in Helix Park. They represent the working horses of Scotland that used to pull barges along canals and work in the fields. The name reflects the mythical transforming beasts that possess the strength & endurance of 100 horses. I tried to take a photo from the bus but it didn't work. We also passed the famous Forth bridge. That photo did come out with a big cruise boat passing by. It was a long day; we left at 8:15 am and got back about 6:45 pm but it was definitely worthwhile.
Monday, August 22 - Day 62 Today we went back to Edinburgh Castle with tickets in hand. My Cadw membership covered the entrance fee. There were many, many visitors but we managed to see everything. When we were walking to the castle
there was a sprinkling of rain but it disappeared. The castle stands on the core of an extinct volcano. Evidence has been found indicating the site has been occupied since the Iron Age possibly as a hill fort. It is one of the oldest fortified places in Europe. During the Wars of Independence it changed hands many times. The castle is the most besieged in Britain. Jacobites tried to capture the castle during the Rising of 1715 but failed when the ladder they brought turned out to be too short! The current buildings date from the 12th century to the 20th century. It has been a fortress, a royal palace, a military garrison and a state prison. On either side of the castle gate are statues of Robert the Bruce and William Wallace.
Queen Margaret, who became a saint died here in 1093. The small chapel we visited is Edinburgh's oldest building and still hosts weddings and christenings. James IV built the Great Hall in 1511 but was killed in the Battle of Flodden in 1513 fighting English forces belonging to his brother-in-law Henry VIII. Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI in the Royal Palace in
Kelpies
from the Internet, because we were driving by them my photo didn't turn out 1566. The Honours of Scotland are the oldest crown jewels in Britain. During WWII the Crown of Scotland was hidden in a medieval toilet. The Stone of Destiny (also called the Stone of Scone) is on display in the palace. It was used for centuries to inaugurate monarchs. It is said to have originated in the Holy Land. In 1296, Edward I removed the stone from Scotland & had it built into a new throne in Westminster Abbey that became the Coronation Chair. In December 1950, 4 Glaswegian students stole the Stone from Westminster and brought it back to Scotland. It turned up three months later in a Scottish abbey. It was finally officially returned to the Edinburgh Castle in November 1996.
We tried to peer into all the buildings and towers. Climbing more steep hills were required as well as tower stairs. We did line up to see both the Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny. It is set up so the line never stops. Visitors slowly walk by both without stopping for more than a few seconds. It started to lightly rain just as we were finished so we popped into the tea shop.
The
Stirling - Old Town Jail
took over from the overcrowded Tolbooth Jail that was rated the worst prison in Britain rain changed to sprinkles as we walked to the National Museum of Scotland. D had not been there and I had other galleries I wanted to visit. We agreed to meet in the lobby after 1 1/2 hours since there was so much to see. When we left it was still lightly raining. This is the first long-lasting rain I had on this trip. About 12,000 steps.
Tuesday, August 23 - Day 63 This morning our taxi did not arrive. I think the reception didn't order it ahead as promised. Regardless, we had to catch a bus then walk to the Waverly Station to catch our train. Due to the delay we missed our train. Luckily we only had to wait 1/2 hour until the next train to Stirling, Stirlingshire. We had to check out of our Edinburgh accommodations then were too early to check into the Stirling City Centre Premier Inn. After storing our luggage, we walked to the city centre for lunch. After lunch, we visited the Old Town Jail. An actor played a few different roles explaining the development and reforming of the jail. The stone Victorian prison was built in 1847 taking over the
overcrowded Tolbooth Jail that had been rated the worst prison in Britain. At first a new system was instituted where each prisoner had their own cell, learned basic literacy and trained in a craft. The goal was to break the cycle of poverty that was behind many of the crimes. However the government didn't like the expense and cut budgets leading to 2-4 people in each cell and the cessation of teaching. In 1888 the jail was requisitioned by the military and became a military prison until 1935. The prison was closed the following year but used for military storage during WWII. Restoration of the building began in 1991 resulting in a few different uses. In 2015 it became a visitor attraction. The views from the rooftop terrace were impressive.
At 3 pm we went back to the hotel to check in. To my dismay the room held one double bed and one hard sofa. I complained that this was not what we booked but reception said they didn't have anything else available. D insisted she was fine sleeping on the sofa. Since we didn't have an alternative solution I had to accept her word. We found it difficult
to find an open restaurant with seats available but after some walking were successful.
Wednesday, August 24 - Day 64 We had a slow start to the day since we had booked a walking tour that started at 11 am. In the meantime we visited the Church of the Holy Rude, 15th century. It was named after the Holy Rood, a relic of the 'True Cross'. It is the 2nd oldest building in Stirling after the castle. An earlier church was destroyed by fire in 1405. In 1567 the infant James VI was crowned here after Mary Stuart was forced to abdicate. Close links with the castle always gave it the support of the Stuart kings.
The walking tour was an excellent introduction to Stirling with interesting information and a good guide. The guide pointed out some medieval buildings including one from the 14th century. On some of the older buildings were symbols indicating the type of business originally within. We came upon a begging post. It seems criminals would have an ear nailed to the post as part of their punishment. They would beg to have the nail removed and the ear detached since the only
other solution would be to pull and rip their ear. Cowane's Hospital was a 17th century almshouse then became a guildhall. Mar's Wark was a fascinating ruin. The Regent of Scotland built it in the 16th century. King James VI stayed here at one time. It was originally a courtyard townhouse but was used as barracks during the 1715 Jacobite Rising. Even though only the facade is left it is impressive with lots of embellishments. The Church of the Holy Rude was on the tour trail. We didn't go in again but did visit the cemetery to hear the story of Mary Stevenson. After she died, her body was stolen. The authorities managed to retrieve it but when it was reburied it was with an incorrect tombstone. I am not sure what happened to the original occupant. Darnley's House, now a coffee house was once used as a residence for Mary, Queen of Scots husband Lord Darnley when the Queen and her entourage were at the castle. The guide said when Mary soured on Darnley due to his antics she gave him the house at the bottom of a hill. In the morning when everyone dumped their 'night soils' into
the street, the waste rolled down the hill to his doorstep. After the tour we had a good lunch at Darnley's. We had good timing because it was very busy and everyone who came after us had to go on a wait list.
Next was a bus ride to the William Wallace monument away from the old town centre. It is located at the top of another steep hill so we took the shuttle to the monument entrance. We climbed the stairs to all 4 levels; 246 steps on a tight, stone spiral staircase. On the ground level is a Visitor's Centre. The 1st level (our 2nd floor) is the Hall of Arms that tells the story of Wallace and the Battle of Stirling Bridge. The 2nd level is the Hall of Heroes filled with the busts of great Scots. In the middle of the room is Wallace's 5 ft-long broadsword. On level 3 are exhibits about the monument itself. I was almost at the top when a kid about 6 years old was coming down and said, "You're almost at the top! Trust me, the view is beautiful!" I had to laugh as did his parents. The views
were beautiful but strong winds forced me to shorten my stay after taking a few photos to prove I made it. When I arrived a fellow looked at the hiking pole in my hand and said, "good for you, climbing all those steps". When people see me using it, they automatically think I have a disability. hahaha It comes in handy sometimes. Going down the many steps was a lot easier than coming up. Once at the bottom of the monument we chose to walk the "Wallace Way" to the bottom of the hill. this is a wooded path with various wood carvings along the way. The path was steep in places. We waited quite a while for the bus arriving back to the town centre around 6 pm making it time for dinner.
Thursday, August 25 - Day 65 We allowed lots of time to climb the very steep hill to the castle clutching our 11:00 am tickets in sweaty hands. There was a free tour starting in the forecourt when we arrived so we were just in time. The tour was a little less than one hour then we visited areas more thoroughly on our own.
The castle has dominated Scottish history for centuries. The present buildings date from the 15th and 16th centuries and were last defended against the Jacobites in 1746. From 1881 to 1964 the castle was a depot for recruits for the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders. Touring through the palace there were castle employees dressed in medieval costumes ready to answer any questions from visitors. Copies of 16th century tapestries were reproduced by hand using medieval techniques. Each took 4 years and portray a unicorn hunt. In the King's Chambers is a ceiling of 'Stirling Heads'. These are Renaissance roundels of 38 figures thought to be members of the Royal Court. There was a good-sized garden called Queen Anne's Garden that provided a lovely respite. I was one of many who had the same thought.
After a light lunch of soup we embarked on a 3.3 path called the Back Walk Trail. It was a very pleasant urban walk through woods and bushes. We often saw other people along the way, most of whom said hello. Once we were finished we walked along a road trying to find the Beheading Stone. A woman stopped her car and asked if we were
Stirling - beheading stone
legend says used for executions during the 15th century lost and did we need a ride. She seemed quite concerned. We assured her that we had a good idea where were going. It was a long walk and we did stop at a McDonalds (!) to ask directions. There was a discussion between a few employees before they decided it was around the bend and up another hill in a park. It seemed we had ended up on the wrong side of the hill. It was another very steep hill to reach the stone. It is almost hidden away for some reason. After all that effort it was kind of disappointing. After all it is just a big stone. I was thinking by this time I should have thighs of steel from climbing all the hills and stairs on this trip! hahaha It was a much shorter walk back to the hotel where we had an hour's rest before going to dinner. About 17,000 steps.
Friday, August 26 - Day 66 A 3-hour train trip took us from Stirling to Inverness, Inverness-shire. We walked to the Mardon Guest House, not too far away on the other side of the River Ness. The owner was very effusive with
Inverness appetizer
trying haggis & neeps greetings and information; actually too much information too soon. It was hard to take it all in. The ground floor room was small with a large bathroom. We were told heat could be turned on at night however each bed had two quilts so may not be necessary. At the time of our arrival the weather was pleasant. We went out in search of lunch. I agreed to share an appetizer of spring rolls made of haggis and neeps (turnip) to give it a try. The spring roll was tasty but I wouldn't want too much.
At the local T.I. a festival venue was recommended as well as a pub for music. We walked about 1 km to the park presenting the festival venue. The fee was "pay what you can". We arrived just before the show so the only seats available were near the back of a large covered area. The first musician was Ryan Young, an up-and-coming fiddler. His music was very impressive and greatly enjoyed. There was another young man playing accompaniment on a guitar but I didn't catch his name. He played for a couple of hours then another musician came on stage. She was
talented but sang contemporary pop that didn't rouse my interest simply because I was looking forward to traditional music.
We had been told to go to McGregor's pub about 7:30 pm for the live music so after dinner, we arrived there at approximately that time. The pub was very full both inside and out back in the garden. A server asked a couple if we could share their table and they agreed. They were called Lindsey and Gary McGregor, no relation to the pub. They were from a town further north and were in Inverness for the weekend. Both were very friendly and Lindsey in particular was very talkative. They said they always came to this pub to take in the performance of the piano player headlining this night. I was disappointed that he played contemporary music and if I had been alone, I am not sure I would have stayed. However, the fellow was a very good singer and pianist however I noticed he was missing a lot of teeth. The company was entertaining and I had a good time. We didn't stay too late; we were back at the guest house around 11 pm.
Saturday, August Culloden memorial stone
this stone says 'field of the English they were buried here' however archeologists have not found a grave in this area 27 - Day 67
A local bus took us to the Culloden Battlefield where we joined a free guided tour led by a young fellow called Andy. In the spring of 1746 the final Jacobite rising took place at the behest of Prince Charles Stuart. He was known as Bonnie Prince Charlie due to his boyish looks and reported charm. He was seeking to restore the Stuart monarchy. Prince Charles and the Jacobite supporters met on this battlefield to fight against government troops. In less than one hour around 1500 men were killed - more than 1000 of them were Jacobites. The government soldiers purposely killed any wounded in the field then proceeded to hunt down and kill those trying to escape. This battle devastated the Scottish clans and changed their lives forever. There are memorial stones for the different clans involved in the fight and a 6m-high cairn to honour those who died. Prince Charles escaped with the help of one of my distant ancestors, Flora MacDonald. He lived out his life in Italy failing to implement any further attempts to change the monarchy. When the tour ended, I found myself in a conversation with an Australian woman
who was a major Outlander fan. She even had a half-naked photo of Sam Heughan (Jamie in the series) as the wallpaper on her phone. The Culloden Visitor Centre features artefacts and displays that were thought provoking.
While researching the area I read about the Clava Cairns, a group of cairns (a mound of stones often used for burials) as well as some standing stones. The area is also called the Prehistoric Burial Cairns of Bulnuaran of Clava - a mouthful. I had printed a map that I brought on the trip. There were a few missteps finding the start of the 3 km walk since there wasn't any signage even for vehicles. Along the way we say a Scottish hairy cow, some great countryside, the babbling River Nairn and woods. Once there I discovered this was supposedly the standing stones used by Claire to travel back in time in the Outlander series. I posed with the appropriate standing stone but nothing happened! Hah! Of course, I wasn't wearing the necessary jewels. The Bronze Age cairns were much bigger than anticipated and likely date back 4,000 years.
We realized we didn't have a lot of time to walk
Torridon, Applecross & Eileen Donan Castle Day Trip
Loch Maree - thousands of years ago, druids believed this loch had the power to cure lunacy back and catch the next bus or have a long wait for another. We had 40 minutes to walk back. D didn't think we could make it but I was confident that we could if we walked quickly. We did make it back on time plus the bus was late! Once we returned to the town centre, we ate then completed a pleasant, lengthy riverside walk along with quite a few other people. About 20,500 steps & 13.5 km.
Sunday, August 28 - Day 68 Today was an early start for the 2nd and last Rabbie's Tour called Torridon, Applecross and Eilean Donan Castle. This tour was to focus on the landscapes of the Highlands. Our driver and guide was a Scotsman called Jim. He was entertaining and full of information. Our first stop was at Loch Maree. Thousands of years ago druids believed this loch had the power to cure lunacy. We went on to Loch Chuilinn and the Torridon Hills. There were various beautiful viewpoints in these areas. Parts of the Torridon Hills have peaks and hills favoured for mountaineering and hiking. At one stop there were so many midges they were getting into eyes, ears
Red Deer
not sure how healthy human food is for the deer and a general nuisance. I saw a couple who were starting a hike who were both wearing netting over their heads to protect against the midges. We stopped along the road when we came across a herd of Scottish hairy cows. One was a huge bull but they were very complacent. The breed is designed to withstand the conditions of the Highlands. Their long hair keeps them warm & protects their eyes from insects. Their milk has a very high butterfat content.
Along the way I saw a few more Highland cows, sheep, deer and a grey heron. After a short stop at Loch Clare we pulled into a nearby parking lot to see a red deer that has learned that visiting the cars there results in food. According to our guide, it visits there regularly begging. I am sure the food it receives it not the best for its health. Further along there was another herd of deer amongst the trees making them hard to see. Due to the lack of rain this year water levels are down so many waterfalls are gone or are very small. Even some of the lochs are at lower levels.
In
a couple of areas it looked like there was major tree clearing that initially were a disappointing sight. However Jim explained that trees are cut down in designated areas then several years later replanted with native species to help replenish the health of the soil. The Shieldaig area in Wester Ross was beautiful. It included Loch Torridon. We continued on to Applecross where we stopped for lunch and more photos. Another stop was in Bealach na Bà, pronounced Bee-al-uch nu Bah. it means the 'pass of the cattle' and is a popular area for photography. We had a short stop at Loch Carron. Along the way we saw some Belted Galloway Cows, a traditional Scottish breed that is adapted to poor pastures and moorlands. They are black with a white stripe (or belt) around the middle of their torso. They are primarily raised for their marbled beef. We also saw a group of horned sheep.
We stopped at the Eilean (ee-lynn) Donan Castle for at least 1/2 hour. The castle is situated on an island where 3 sea lochs meet. It was rebuilt many times then restored and reopened in 1932. I did not enter since the £10 fee
didn't allow very much access, at least according to Jim. On the way back to Inverness we stopped in Glenshiel where there was a 1719 battle of Jacobites against British troops. Also called Glen Shiel or in Gaelic Gleann Seile. In the small village of Invermoristan we stopped to see the River Moristan Falls and the Thomas Telford Bridge. (Gaelic: Inbhir Mhoireastain) The tour did not include Loch Ness but Jim halted the bus briefly for a couple of photos.
We arrived back into Inverness about 6:30. I discovered someone I knew from my last employment was also in Inverness. It turned out she and her husband (Lydia and Ben) had a drink in McGregor's pub the same night we were. They probably walked by me as they were leaving. Anyway, they were leaving for Edinburgh tomorrow, as was I so we would try to setup a meet.
Monday, August 29 - Day 69 D was staying in Inverness for a couple of days before she flew home whereas I was going back to Edinburgh. I admit that walking to the train station I wanted to click my heels and do the dance of joy to be
on my own again. I felt as if a weight was lifted off my shoulders since I was always asking what she wanted before considering myself. Also, her snoring left me very sleep-deprived. Anyway, that chapter was done and dusted I could now prepare to enjoy the rest of my journey.
My train was delayed causing me to miss my connection. Once again I was lucky in that another train was available 20 minutes later. It was lightly raining when I arrived but I walked to the Aparthotel Adagio Edinburgh Royal Mile. This was an apartment hotel right on the Royal Mile so very convenient. My accommodation was a studio apartment with a fridge and dishwasher but there were not any pots and pans for the 2-burner cooker. There was a microwave however, I didn't want to buy groceries so didn't really have plans to eat in. The kitchen area was tiny but the bathroom was a good size. It was 3 pm when I arrived allowing me to spend some time emailing Lydia and Ben to arrange a lunch date the following day. After washing some socks & underwear I booked accommodations for the rest of my trip.
Palace of Holyrood
location of the murder of David Rizzio in 1566 By the time I finished I was starving so went out to find dinner.
Tuesday, August 30 - Day 70 The day started out cold but I enjoyed the walk to the Palace of Holyrood at the bottom of the Royal Mile. The Palace is the official Scottish residence of the Royal family. It is named after the 'rood' or cross that King David I is said to have seen between the antlers of a stag he was hunting here in 1128. The present palace was built in 1529 then remodelled in the 1670s. Mary, Queen of Scots returned to Holyrood from France as a widowed 18-year-old. As a Catholic she was harassed for her faith by John Knox. In 1567 she was accused of murdering her husband, Lord Darnley. Two months later she married the Earl of Bothwell, also implicated in Darnley's death. This resulted in a rebellion and the loss of her crown. She went to England but was imprisoned for 20 years before being executed for treason. While Mary was living at Holyrood and very pregnant, a jealous rage caused Darnley to murder David Rizzio. Rizzio (also Riccio/Rizzo) was a favourite of Mary's; he was
Palace of Holyrood
the Grand Staircase a musician and her secretary. Darnley & a group of conspirators stabbed Rizzio multiple times with Darnley's dagger delivering the last blow. This was one of the reasons Mary was considered to be involved in Darnley's death.
Inside the palace is a great staircase in the grand entrance built for Charles II. There are amazing paintings, furnishings, and jewels displayed. A number of rooms are open to the public including the Throne Room, the Privy Chamber, the Dining Room, the King's Bedchamber and Ante-Chamber and Mary, Queen of Scot's rooms. I spent a couple of hours in the Palace as well as walking to the Holyrood Abbey ruins and gardens. Walking back along the Royal Mile, I used a printed walking guide to pick out different buildings and sights. Along the way I stopped to add my cardigan under my raincoat then went to the pub where I was to meet Lydia and Ben for lunch. It has been 3 years since I spoke to Lydia so I thoroughly enjoyed catching up. Lunch was very good and they insisted on paying. We were there until mid-afternoon then went our separate ways.
I continued my walking tour of the
Edinburgh - Paisley close
sculpture based on story of an 1861 building collapse Royal Mile. At the far end of the Tweeddale Court was the Tweeddale House dating back to the 16th century. It was named after a senior advisor to King Charles II. The White Horse Close was one of the best-known coaching inns hosting many famous visitors. It has lots of history but was closed in the late 18th century. I thought if time allowed I would go back to explore further. The Canongate Tolbooth was built in 1591. It was the centre of the town council, a courthouse and a burgh jail. Above the name of 'Paisley Close' is carved "heave awa' chaps, I'm no dead yet". In 1861 a 7-storey tenement collapsed. Supposedly that line was said when a 12-year-old survivor was found. The Canongate Kirk was built in the 17th century. It was the burial place of poet Robert Fergusson and holds the tomb of David Rizzio. Close to St. Giles Cathedral is a wellhead that at one time provided water for the people. The Mercat Cross marks the city centre. (Bonnie) Prince Charles was proclaimed King here in 1745. Nearby is a heart-shaped mosaic as part of the sidewalk. It marks the spot where the infamous Tolbooth
John Knox house on the Royal Mile
Knox was one of the occupants - 16th century; the house dates from 1490 prison stood in the middle of High Street for more than 400 years. Locals have a tradition of spitting on the heart as they walk by although I didn't see anyone doing so. Also nearby is a plaque indicating the site of the last public execution in 1864.
There is a parking lot beside St. Giles Cathedral. In the lot at spot #23, is a sign stating this is the approximate gravesite of John Knox. He died in 1572 and requested to be buried within 20 ft of the cathedral. Since then the cemetery was changed to a parking lot but the bones of Knox should still be there. I stopped for a visit at the John Knox House. It is the oldest house in the city dating from 1490. Supposedly Knox spent his last few years there dying in an upstairs room. Others lived there after him as demonstrated by the ceiling decoration (see photos). A bookstore is located on the ground floor. The fellow at the desk seemed disinterested in museum patrons but did look the bookish type.
Wednesday, August 31 - Day 71 In the morning I caught a bus to Roslin. I asked
Greyfriars Kirk Cemetery
wall tombs part of the Flooded wall - town wall the driver if he went there and he said yes. What he didn't say was that he stopped at the outskirts and I would be better catching a different bus! He did call out letting me know when we got to the right stop. I then realized my mistake and started the 2 km walk. It wasn't that far especially on a sunny day. Although years have passed since the movie "The DaVinci Code", the chapel still receives thousands of visitors. It was built in the mid-15th century and is filled with all kinds of carvings including some associated with Christianity, pagan, Freemasonry and the Knights Templar. There are carvings of plants, such as Indian corn, only found in the Americas that predate Columbus. There is a carving of an angel playing a bagpipe. The only text in the chapel is in Latin stating: "wine is strong, King is stronger, women are stronger still but truth conquers all". The carvings of the ceiling and walls have been a part of scholarly study for hundreds of years. Queen Victoria was one of many instrumental in suggesting restoration work. There is a legend around two columns: a standard column was executed by
a master mason who soon after completion went away to find inspiration. While he was gone his apprentice carved a beautiful corkscrew-shaped column. When the master returned he flew into a jealous rage and murdered the apprentice with his carving hammer.
Interior photos are not allowed so I purchased a guidebook. Upon entering the chapel most seats were filled with tourists so I had difficulty finding a place for the 1/2-hour lecture provided by a Chapel employee. He mentioned that after the movie came out the number of visitors rose dramatically. After the lecture I walked around for some time and went down into the crypt. It was difficult negotiating around the crowds. I walked around outside for a bit taking photos of the exterior then walked to the Rosslyn Castle a short distance away. The castle is actually a small collection of ruins. A stop at the nearby Original Rosslyn Inn provided an excellent soup for lunch.
Arriving close to the Edinburgh town centre, I went to the Greyfriars Kirk. It is famous for two reasons. The first is the Greyfriar's Bobby. It is another story of a faithful dog that refused to leave the grave of
his master. In this case, it was a Skye terrier who kept returning to the spot for 14 years. Locals fed and looked after the dog during that time. The second reason is another possible modern legend. The Church claims that J.K. Rowling used to wander the Church's cemetery and used many of the names for her book characters. The church itself is on the plain side but has an extensive history involving politics. There is a stained glass window of George Buchanan who knew Mary, Queen of Scots and tutored her son.
I signed up for a Mercat Ghost Tour. It turned out to be an expensive error. It was really an actor's exercise without much substance but on the other hand we did see the Blair Street Underground Vaults. People did live down there at one time although it must have been hundreds of years ago. The warren of underground vaults was formed when tenements were built next to each other on steep hills. Afterward I stepped into Bella Italia (a restaurant chain) since it was close and had GF pasta. My dinner was very good. As I was leaving a woman stopped me to compliment me
on my scarf. Then she started a conversation but the waitstaff was trying to walk around me so I thanked her and carried on. Another friendly Scot!
Thursday, September 1 - Day 72 On the outskirts of the city is the Craigmillar Castle easily reached by bus in 20 minutes. From the closest bus stop I had a choice of walking up a busy road or walking through a park. The park sign looked straightforward plus it was away from traffic so I chose this route. It was certainly more enjoyable walking through fields and seeing the many dog walkers. One fellow had about 8 dogs with him, all sizes.
The castle was a surprise. Only partially a ruin, there were many rooms intact. It was built in the early 15th century around a tower house. It was later expanded in the late 15th & 16th century. Mary, Queen of Scots, fled here after the murder of her secretary, Rizzio. She used the castle as a safe haven in 1566. A year later its owner, Sir Simon Preston would become her jailer in his townhouse for one night. There were lots of nooks and crannies to explore.
Edinburgh piper
pronounced Ed'n-burah In 1813 a skeleton was found walled up in one of the castle vaults. It is said the branches of the nearby yew trees were used to make arrows. The castle has a view platform overlooking the grounds. There is an area in the shape of P (for Preston) that was laid out as a fishpond.
It was the castle used as Jamie's prison (Ardsmuir Prison) in Outlander. In fact there is one space nicknamed 'Jamie's room' since filming did take place in the small room. A guide explained that most interior scenes are filmed in studios due to castle stonewalls creating sound issues. The Outlaw King was also filmed here.
The castle was a delight to explore. It is so close to Edinburgh it is unfortunate that it is not better known. Leaving the castle, I chose to walk back through the park again to catch the bus back to the Edinburgh centre. I had enough time to walk to the Georgian House Museum. This is an 18th-century townhouse in what is called the New Town. It has been restored and furnished to show a typical Edinburgh house in the late 18th & early 19th century. The
Edinburgh Mercat Cross
marks the city centre; Bonnie Prince Charlie was proclaimed King here in 1745 first owner was John Lamont, the 18th Chief of the Clan Lamont. Although it had lovely furnishings and paintings, it seemed similar to the manor houses and townhouses I had already visited.
The following day I reluctantly left Edinburgh to begin the end of my vacation. I enjoyed Edinburgh very much and hope to return some day. The next few weeks would be spent travelling through Northern England.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.265s; Tpl: 0.024s; cc: 8; qc: 44; dbt: 0.0708s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.3mb
Home and Away
Bob Carlsen
What an amazing retirement trip you've had!
I was also in Scotland the end of Aug and early Sep for two weeks. I only had time to visit 30 castles of my ancestors. I appreciate your sharing that history, as did I.