A Ferry, Bus and Two Trains

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Once again, a long travel day. Up at 5:00 in a taxi to the ferry terminal by 6:15. The Stena Line departed for Cairnryan at 7:30 and we were in the Stenaplus lounge again so would order breakfast on the boat. This ferry was not near as nice as the ferry from Wales to Dublin. Much older, less seating in the lounge and staff not as pleasant. The food was ok, I had the Full Irish, Jerry had a continental. The boat was also not as clean as the first and the bathroom smelled like an outhouse. Other than that, it was a comfortable crossing even took a bit of a nap.

The moment we stepped off the ferry, it was an entirely different feeling than Ireland. The sea air was fresh and clean, the country side green and plush (not that it isn’t green in Ireland). We boarded our bus to Ayr (birthplace of Robert Byrne). Our original itinerary in 2020 had us spending the night here and visiting the Robert Byrne Museum, but this like the Cliffs of Mohr in Ireland were cut in the final version due to having to fly in and out of London instead of direct in to Dublin and Out of Glasgow.

The bus ride, while very uncomfortable and hot, was beautiful. Most of the journey hugged the shore line. The west coast of Scotland reminded me a lot of a combination of the Maine and Oregon Coasts. All along the way were pasture after pasture of sheep, cow, and horses. The ride was lovely (oh no, I am becoming British) but scary at the same time as the road was sometimes narrow and the bus went at a good clip.

We arrived at the Ayr bus station at about 11:30 and had an hour to transfer to our first train to Glasgow. Finding the train station was a bit of a trick, google didn’t seem to know the way and buildings kept blocking the route. Finally, a lovely local couple pointed us in the right direction. What was supposed to be an eleven-minute walk turned out to be more like 35. I was again covered in sweat by the time we got to the station. On the plus side the train was there and we got right on. The ticket guy even helped us with our luggage and made sure we were in the car with the luggage rack. The train was a commuter train from Ayr to Glasgow, it took about 55 minutes and made numerous stops. Much of the route was again on the shore line. We also passed at least 10 golf courses. It was a pleasant ride, but we were hungry

The original plan was to have lunch in Ayr, we had picked out a place between the bus station and the train station, but since it took us longer to get to the train station than we expected, no lunch for us. We did have enough time at Glasgow Central to get something form Pret a Manger to eat on the train. Yes, I know it isn’t very Scottish, but the alternative was Burger King. We lucked out and the first car we came to had the luggage rack and an open 4 top. So, we had a pretty comfortable ride in to Edinburg. This again was more of a commuter train. There were lots of shoppers going home on the train.

We arrived in Edinburgh just before 4. Walking up out of the train station, we were immediately transported back in time to the 1500’s. Almost the same feeling when stepping off the train in Venice and through the doors to the Grand Canal. I spotted my castle immediately. I could feel the presence of my ancestors including Mary Queen of Scots. The main train station is dead center of town and our hotel was a quick 5-minute walk from the station. We are at the Old Waverly (yes, it is old) and I highly recommend it, as is it central to everything you want to see and do.

We checked in and headed up to our room. Warning there are twenty steps from the entrance up to the reception, no elevator, until you go to your room. I had booked us a nice corner room, but I had no idea that the view would be directly at Edinburgh Castle, the Scot Monument, and Princes Street Gardens. We had nothing on the itinerary today except for dinner at 8. This gave us time to unpack get comfortable, have the wine and enjoy the view.

The Witchery

Our first dinner in Edinburgh was the Witchery. It was called this as it was near the spot where hundreds for people were hung or burnt at the steak because were alleged witches. The building was built in the early 1500’s and is with in feet of the Edinburgh Castle entrance. This also means to get there from out hotel was up hill, and not a gradual incline. The hill was bad enough, but then add a jacket, tie and dress shoes (I refer to mine as the shoes of pain). After that walk you can eat anything, you want, no calories at all.

The interiors were everything you would expect, dark, low ceilings, dark wood panels, and of course lit by candlelight. It was romantic and spooky, especially since as we were shown to our table, we walked right by lucifer himself.

We started with Martini’s, now that I am in Scotland it is Tanqueray 10 all the way. It did originate in Scotland. Jerry had a Vodka Martini.

The dinner started with house made bread and Scottish butter. Met all the criteria for the bread course, warm bread soft butter. The appetizer was steak Tartare, another excellent representation of the dish. A quick aside: In both Ireland and Scotland they take your allergies very seriously. In Ireland the menu contains codes that tell you what is in the dish that you might be allergic to. In Scotland, the first question after can I get you a drink, is do you have any food allergies? They are also very accommodating to change a dish to work around your allergies.

That being said, Jerry had the Lemon sole meuniere, served with a cucumber and caviar butter sauce. He had it on the bone (they would have filet it if you wanted) but the fish was so perfectly cooked it easily came off the bone. They were out of the Scottish Halibut but instead did have sea bass. I ordered this and had them leave off the mussels. It was served in a cider, bacon & creme fraiche sauce and a roasted salsify pine emulsion. It was fantastic and as much as I like sole meuniere, the Bass was clearly headed towards dish of the day. We split a side of wild garlic mashed potatoes. Only critique here is that they needed to be hot not warm.

We washed this all down with a very nice bottle of Alsace Pinot Gris.

Dessert could not be passed by. Jerry had Amalfi Lemon Meringue Pie with raspberry sorbet, pretty good, could have been a little tarter. I had Scottish strawberry and ruby chocolate opera gateau with vanilla Chantilly cream. No, the strawberries were not Oregon, but better than California, but not as good as French.

Time for the Scotch Whiskey.

We are in Scotland now, so every dinner will end with what else but Scotch Whiskey. Tonight’s selections were for Jerry a Glenfarclas 15-year-old (Speyside) and for me Glenmorangie 18-year-old (Highlands)

It is in the running for best meal of the trip, but it is a very close race with Mulberry Garden and the Merchant Hotel.

The walk back to the hotel was much easier as it was downhill. Ok not that much better because my dress shoes are a bit slippery, at least they are spiked heels. Even with it being mostly a travel day, we managed to get 8,291 steps in, most uphill, I think that should double the steps.

I am already in love with Scotland and Edinburgh.

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Photos

Sea Bass
Dish of the Day