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Published: October 6th 2009
Stormy sunshine
Approaching Loch EribollToday felt like a typical Sunday back home - very few people on the streets and very few cars on the road - except, of course, this was the far north of Scotland and every day seemed to be just like this!
The weather was changeable, bright one minute, overcast the next, sometimes blue sky, sometimes black with looming clouds warning of a storm to come, sometimes calm, sometimes windy. It made for superb views and challenging photography.
I've realised that my blogs all mention the names of places that are not only unpronounceable to Sassenachs, but could be just about anywhere. So, if you have a motoring atlas of Great Britain, it might be a good idea to have it to hand.
We bid farewell to the Kyle of Tongue after another excellent breakfast at Cloisters and retraced our steps of yesterday, westwards first along the tip of Loch Hope and around Ben Arnabol to Loch Eriboll. The loch today seemed somehow familiar - which, of course, it was as we were here yesterday. However, we were becoming increasingly blasé
The only rainbow on this blog
From Loch Eriboll looking towards Whiten Head and the rainbow about this amazing scenery, for there was another new view of mountains or lochs at every turn in the road, each one crying out to be photographed and each one eventually starting to seem just the same as the last one. I know you’ll be too polite to agree with that, but, although I did try to make each photograph unique in some way or another, I have to add that it’s never easy to replicate with a camera what you see with your own eyes. You have to be there, you have to experience the big skies, the wind in your hair, the clouds scudding across mountain tops, the scents of heather and bracken, the emptiness, the lack of vehicle and aircraft noise, the changing light... What I’m saying is: use your imagination and the pictures will start to look different!
Our destination was Lochinver, just 85 miles on the map. At first, we travelled along what, for us, would be a normal country road with one lane each way, as far as Loch Eriboll. Black clouds greeted our arrival here but, as we turned south and the road became the all too familiar single track with passing
Low highlands
On the road from Durness to Rhiconich looking towards Ghlas Bheinn (331m) and Farveall (521m) places, out came the sun once again. We continued up the loch’s western shore, passing the hamlet of Laid - where one of the few residents apparently kept hens and had a sense of humour, for the sign outside their single-storey stone house advertised: “New ‘Laid’ Eggs”.
Around Meall Meadhonach and nearing the sea, we glanced across to clouds looming grey to our right and caught sight of Whiten Head, illuminated momentarily by the sun and a rainbow. We saw several other rainbows this day but, once you’ve seen one..., so this is the only photo you’ll see of one today.
You may remember from my previous blog that we reached Smoo on our excursion yesterday and that we planned to investigate the cave there. Alas, although we did stop, we hadn’t gone more than a few yards along the footpath when the heavens opened. We raced back to the car as fast as our pensioners’ legs could take us and vowed to add Smoo Cave to the itinerary for our next visit!
At Durness, we ventured into the town centre, but couldn’t find it. Yes, there was a port, a shop or two and some drab
Just another loch view...
On the road from Durness to Rhiconich looking towards Ghlas Bheinn (331m) and Farveall (521m) houses, but it really wasn’t our sort of place. So, we turned southwest. We couldn’t have turned any other way actually, because there’s only one road - a straight, undulating track with wide views of heath, marsh and mountains on either side. There’s little habitation here and barely any signs of life. It must be an inhospitable place in the depths of winter. We were in need of sustenance by now, so turned up a little track masquerading as the B801 towards Kinlochbervie, which the map seemed to suggest might be a sizeable community. It wasn’t - but it did have an hotel with a terrific sea view and a hoarding promoting its coffee shop. Apart from a receptionist, we had the entire place to ourselves and enjoyed a decent cappuccino and some shortbread in their comfortable lounge at an incredibly reasonable price, before returning refreshed along picturesque Loch Inchard to the A838.
At Kylesku, we stopped to enquire about a boat trip up Loch Glencoul to Eas a’Chuall Aluinn, the highest waterfall in Britain - which, at 658ft, is about three times the height of Niagara, although a mere trickle in comparison of course. The boatman said that
Yes, another view...
Just 10 minutes from Kylesku is this grand view of loch and mountains - and there are benches here for you to sit and admire it too. really bad weather was on its way and he’d need a dozen or so people to make it viable anyway, so, as we were his only potential customers so far, he was unlikely to be going there today. We took his phone number in case the weather improved tomorrow (as it happened, the weather on Monday was against us too, so we didn’t phone and simply added the waterfall to our growing list of things for next time).
Despite the narrow roads, our low speed and the constant stops to ‘wow’ at the scenery, we were too early for check-in at the next B&B, so we decided to take the coastal route from just after Unapool towards Nedd, Drumbeg and Stoer. And, boy, are we pleased we did. This was a track with some steep inclines and descents, incredible expanses of bogs and moors, seascapes and mountain views. The peaks of Sail Ghorm (776m) and Quinag (809m) seemed to dominate the views across moors and little freshwater lochs inland, while around the next corner was the stunning sight of rocky bays with sandy beaches, the ever-changing sea, and islands and headlands beyond. There were very few houses and just
The Highlands get higher
Sail Ghorm (776m) and the nippled peak of Quinag (809m) along the coastal route from Unapool to Lochinver one or two fishing communities along the way. We couldn’t help but wonder how the few people who lived hereabouts managed during the winter months.
Approaching Lochinver, we were greeted by a stunning view of the high mountains of the Assynt region before dropping down into the town and our home for the next two nights. Here we stayed at
Veyatie, justly proud to be a 4-star Bed & Breakfast and a member of Scotland’s Best B&Bs. This spacious bungalow, named after the nearby Loch of that name, has a conservatory looking out over part of its garden to a huge statue of a former pet dog, the waters of Loch Inver, and the mountains beyond. Our accommodation, in one of only two guest rooms, was spacious and very comfortable, and it had the best shower room we have ever experienced in many years of travelling at home and abroad. The room was named Suilven after one of the best-known mountains in the area, which can be seen from the house. The lounge and dining area were overflowing with Highland Stoneware pottery (high quality, hand decorated, pricey); the lady of the house is one of the decorators at their
The only places to stop...
A typical view towards the sea from the coastal route, the B869, to Lochinver local factory, as well as the accomplished artist of pictures in our room. After a welcome cup of tea and a short rest, we spent the evening enjoying the friendly atmosphere at
The Caberfeidh , a local pub-cum-restaurant down by the loch. The food was simple but good and the service was outstanding, even though the place was full to capacity. Judging by the accents, many of its patrons were tourists from the Netherlands and Germany.
After a good night's rest and the best breakfast we have had at any of the B&Bs on this holiday (prepared and served by the man of the house), we set forth on a breezy, overcast Monday morning to explore the surrounding area. We'd already covered the coast route to the north on our journey here, so we headed south along the track beside the sea towards Enard Bay with the hills of Assynt away to our left. One thing we've noticed during our time here in the north is that the holly and, particularly, the Rowan trees are absolutely laden with red berries. They add colour to a sometimes dreary scene, no more so than here on a drizzly day. I'm sure that
Pretty in the summer
...or even autumn, as now, but oh if winter comes! the old adage that a heavy crop of berries means a hard winter is on its way is true in these parts - every year!
Our route took us eventually to Achiltibuie, part way along a dead-end road looking out towards the Summer Isles. It's probably lovely in the summer. We took coffee at the pub there, a rather grey little place, although the welcome was bright enough. We were told it would shortly revert to being open just three times a week for the locals' winter entertainment. We then retraced our steps around Lochs Osgaig and Lurgainn to join the main A894 road. Rather than immediately turning north to return to Lochinver, we opted to go south to Ullapool. Oh, what joy to travel on a real road for a change - I managed to get into sixth gear and to use the cruise control for the first time in days!
The town of Ullapool, on the east shore of Loch Broom, is the largest settlement for many miles around - with, according to Wikipedia, 1,300 inhabitants. They'd collide with one another if they all came shopping at once! It's a pleasant town with a couple of
Okay, another lovely view
Just another view on the coastal route to Lochinver, the B869 streets, including a broad pavement for strolling along beside the sea and the harbour, a bookshop and a few other shops mainly for visitors, like Edinburgh Woollen Mills. We discovered a Tesco store hidden up behind the seafront - perhaps that's where the locals collide. Ferries leave from here for Stornaway in the Outer Hebrides too. We had a simple lunch at a café, served by girls with very un-Scottish accents (Polish perhaps?), then browsed the shops before heading back, with cruise control, via Inchnadamph to Lochinver. By this time, the weather had turned miserable and we chose not to stop en route at Ardvreck Castle as we would be passing that way again tomorrow on our way to Lairg. Instead, we spent a leisurely afternoon reading and blogging (Veyatie has free Wi-Fi) and then ventured out into the cold drizzle for another excellent meal at The Caberfeidh.
We woke on Tuesday morning to driving rain but, after another of Veyatie's 5-star breakfasts (the B&B is 4-star, but the breakfast deserves an extra one), we set forth on a leisurely journey towards Lairg.
This was to be only 45 miles on good roads, but we had planned sightseeing
...and another
These must be holiday homes - you'd be mad to face the gales and flying sand here in the winter and refreshment stops along the way. At the end of Loch Assynt, we reached Ardvreck Castle again. Battling to stand upright in the face of a howling gale, I took some photos, then retreated to the car. The Castle is thought to have been constructed by the Clan MacLeod who owned Assynt and the surrounding area from the 13th century onwards. It was attacked and captured by the Clan MacKenzie in 1672, who took control of the Assynt lands and, in 1726, constructed a more modern manor house nearby, Calda House. The house takes its name from the Calda burn beside which it stands - and, under mysterious circumstances one night in 1737, it did indeed burn - to the ground! You can see them both in the panorama at the top of the page and, less clearly, in the smaller picture below.
As we followed the valley of the Oykel, the weather improved and we decided to drive down the Kyle of Sutherland to the Dornoch Firth and on to the ancient town of Dornoch itself. This is an attractive little place with a graveyard that used to be a marketplace, a jail that's become a smart shop
Approaching Lochinver
The view of Ben Gharbh (539m), Canisp (847m), Suilven (732m) and the distant Cul Mor (849m) as we approached Lochinver by the coastal route selling all things Scottish, a castle that's now an hotel, and a teashop that was an undertaker's parlour in a previous life! The cathedral, small but remarkably picturesque inside, has been in use since around 1240 and has some wonderful old and modern stained glass windows. It was in this cathedral, in December 2000, filmed by an intruder hiding among the organ pipes, that Madonna's son Rocco was christened - the day before she was married to Guy Ritchie at Skibo Castle, Peter de Savary's exclusive hotel and club, just a mile or so down the road.
Embalmed by a pot of tea and some scones from the teashop, we made our way back through Bonar Bridge and, around Invershin, turned up along another of those narrow B roads to the Falls of Shin. The estate hereabouts, all of which was once Clan Ross territory, is owned by Harrods mogul, Mohamed Abdel Moneim Fayed (aka Mohammed Al Fayed). He also has a modest pile called Balnagown Castle somewhere nearby. Inevitably, Mr Al Fayed has made the Falls a commercial enterprise. There are the Falls and forest walks to attract visitors, a restaurant to feed them in, and a gift
View towards Enard Bay
On the track to the south of Lochinver there are countless sea views just like this shop - stuffed with stuff from Harrods of course - to fleece them in. The man's huge ego is witnessed by a life-size Tussaud's waxwork of him dressed in Highland costume with his adoring dog looking up his kilt! An Egyptian in a kilt - whatever next!
The dramatic Falls themselves are easily reached on foot down a couple of flights of steps. The flow of water from Loch Shin is controlled so that salmon coming up from the Dornoch Firth can reach their spawning grounds. It still hurtles down, peaty brown and bubbling white, making a roar above which you have to shout to be heard. We were fortunate to see a number of large fish leaping the falls, but they either saw us first or were too quick for my still camera. I may have captured one on my video camera though.
Then, it was just a few minutes' drive to Lairg and our final B&B of the holiday,
Lochview. This was very comfortable, welcoming and homely rather than contemporary. It was the only B&B we stayed at where we found real flowers in our room, not the awful artificial ones that all the others seemed
A hard winter's on its way
Wherever we travelled, the Rowan (Mountain Ash) trees were laden with glossy red berries to have. A small but caring touch. The evening was spent at Lochview, packing, e-mailing and blogging (this was another B&B thoughtfully providing free Wi-Fi). We ate out at the Lairg Highland Hotel in Main Street - a meal which remains firmly in the memory for badly overdone steak, a partial refund and a total lack of apology from the restaurant staff.
Breakfast the next morning included homemade jams and bread, followed by a cheery farewell from Lochview's proprietors as we departed for the short ride to our friends' new home at Barbaraville, just north of Invergordon on the Cromarty Firth. It was good to see them again after our week away, but time was short and, after a swift sightseeing tour of the house, the estate's attractive facilities, and the environs, we drove to Inverness in time for our flight home.
It was a pity that, contrary to current regulations, I'd inadvertently packed my 10-year-old GlenGrant's single malt in our hand luggage. I hope the security men at Inverness Airport enjoyed it!
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suzanne
non-member comment
enjoyed your blog on The Highlands
Enjoyed your blog - amusing and informative. I thought you painted an excellent but realistic picture of driving through the Highlands on narrow roads and with very changeable weather!