Crazy Army Jeeps and Saints in Torridon


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Published: January 8th 2007
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So today saw us driving through the Torridon Mountains. Very, very remote, all single track roads, I imagine that it's scary to drive in a car, I KNOW that it's terrifying in a bus! But hey...adventure is good!
Had an awesome rainbow over Loch Carron as we were heading out of Strome Ferry, that was nice...lots of sunshine, amazing colours. Great photo op, that.
We stopped at the Meall Gorm viewpoint, which is stunning. It's just so remote and desolate. And with the mist swirling around through it, you just feel like you're completely alone. We laid on our backs on this one rocks and sort of hung over the edge, to see the view upside-down. Wow...I have no idea how to describe it. You'd have to do it yourself to see, but the change in perspective is incredible.
We made it to Applecross without being driven off of a cliff, which is testament to Simon's driving skills. Applecross is beautiful (I'm running out of adjectives, I know! I'm sorry!), and there's a saint buried there at the church. Saint Maelrubha, again, as with most of the saints that are associated with Scotland, was Irish. While we were parked in the village itself, for one of those all important loo breaks, we managed to have our parked bus struck by some lunatic driver in an army jeep. And the dude was actually IN the army. How can you NOT see something that big and white? Anyway, got all of that sorted out, though his CO wasn't there...would have liked to have seen some army discipline being dealt out!
We walked to the old church, where good ol' Maelrubha is buried. Found the old chapel in the back, and sort of...umm...broke into...the...church. Well...I don't think the door was locked, really, I think it was just...stuck. And I wanted to see inside! And no one else complained after I got the door open anyway...just went in and took pictures. It wasn't that interesting inside...not one of those old churches that inspires you.
Had our first introduction to Highland shopping. It really goes to show you what a different world it is up in the Highlands, how differently they think and live. What Highland shopping involves is a little table or shelving unit of some kind on the side of the road, with all the goods for offer spread out on it. Also on the table is a jar with money in it, into which you put your money for whatever you decide that you're buying, and from which you can take the correct change. So much trust is involved with it. And yet no one up there would ever think of cheating the person whose goods they were buying. The old ways are still very strong in the Highlands: honesty, honour, respect, trust. Everyone up here lives by those values.
Got to go swimming in Loch Maree! Apparently Maelrubha (yes, the same on of Applecross fame) used to cure the insane in the waters of Loch Maree. It's named for him, actually. I don't find that it did anything to cure my insanity...but maybe you need the saint actually present? Who knows...I like being crazy anyway.
We found this cool little place, called Badachro, which is a Gaelic word meaning "Pass of the Cows", and rumour has it that the happiest cows in Scotland live here. I can certainly see why. It's another of those places that if it weren't in the absolute middle of nowhere I would love to live for a while. Gorgeous. I found one of my many dream homes on it. Simon and I even discussed the possibility of buying it and turning it into a youth hostel.
We walked across Corrieshalloch Gorge, on the suspension bridge that is apparently "so cool"...Tanya and I just looked at each other, wondering if he was serious. I mean...the gorge is pretty, don't get me wrong. But she's from BC, and I've spent a lot of time in BC, and if you want to see some suspension bridges over gorges...go there. There are some doozies there. Anyway, it was nice to see how impressed the others were.
And then at last we arrived in Ullapool. The hostel we're staying in is alright, I suppose...I don't know. We're having a haggis dinner and then we're going out to the pub. Actually, I think that Tanya, Chad and I are going to the pub first and then coming back for dinner, and then going back to the pub afterwards. Whatever! There will be a pub involved!

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