OUTER HEBRIDES 5

---

Monday

Time to move on and got so much dirty and wet gear decided to bus it down to Baile a Mhanaich, near the airport at Benbecula which is the smaller island that connects North and South uist (North Uist back on our to do list next time)
Left bus at airport and got some shopping in before walking, via the visitor centre/gallery a mile South of town, the 4-5 miles to Shell Bay campsite at Liniclate (Lionacleit) which is situated adjacent school and sports centre (http://www.southuist.com/accommodation.php?action=view&id=43)
I have seen some reviews of this site on the web and I think people are being unfair. Yes you do have to ask the owner to put washing machine on and yes they ask you not to waste water in showers, washing etc but: they are on a water metre, the water stayed hot all the way through my shower, they couldn't do enough for us giving us extra pegs for our washing, taking their washing down the moment ours was done and ready to hang, cheerful and happy to chat and I fully recommend it, but be very aware that the site is very exposed, surrounded by flat land, as is most of the Western coast of the islands) and in high winds you could have trouble in larger tents. Hotel is near, beach is near, bus stop outside and plenty of information leaflets. But apart from that, the ruddy sun was shining and that makes all the difference.
Yes, wild camping was out the window at this stage, priority was getting some clean clothes and a proper shower.
We pitched up, the site being a mix of small (looking like a bright coffin)and large tents (porch, bedroom, kitchen sink) and got the clothes into the washing machine while I had a shower....blissssssss.
Got washing hung up while sun was out and with the wind some bits were dry within the hour. Had a wander to beach, which really is 5 minute walk away, as stated on camp site advert! and spotted some seals and got some arty photos.
Had a walk to leisure centre but at £3.60 each for one hour in the pool we gave it a miss (no slides or bubbles-no pay lol)
Had dinner, salmon with ginger and spring onion sauce, rice and peppers and I had a can of beer..we know how to slum it, certainly got some funny looks cooking this delicious repast outside our tent before taking over a small end of the picnic bench to eat at.
After dinner (oh yes, Marian also showered by now...ah, refreshing ;-) and having got all clothes put away we headed to the Dark Isle hotel (http://www.isleshotelgroup.co.uk/dark_island_hotel.htm) which includes public bar where we had a couple of drinks and I had a wee dram of 17 year old Glengoyne which was a gold award winner. A rich fruity sherry like dram with apple and oak aromas, every drop went down a treat. The whisky expert barman is...Polish surprise surprise, oh to be able to soak up so much knowledge.
Headed back to camp site (reluctantly lol) and took a short walk (5 minutes from site) to the dunes overlooking the beach to photograph the sunset and while there we saw a woman stood on the beach. We stood watching her for about ten minutes. Why? Well, apart from the reason we are nosey bughers, we noticed that she seemed to have the undivided attention of three or four seals which were no more than 30-40 yards out from the beach, and as the woman walked along the beach, the seals followed along, when she stopped and turned to look at them, they also stopped. I have heard of the pigeon ladies in London but this was a sight worth watching.
Then off to bed.

Tuesday

We thought about staying an extra night when we arrived at the camp site Monday, but had decided time was running out and we needed to get some proper traveling in so morning saw us packing up and on our way to South Uist before most people had breakfast (we had ours), the sun was making an appearance, in between the clouds but we saw this as helping to keep us warm as within a mile or so we had to stop to take jackets off.
We walked the 2-3 miles along the coast and over the causeway before getting bus from Aird Mhor which was necessary for us to achieve our plan, such as it was, for next couple of days.
We departed the bus at Tobha Mor (Howmor) and walked back to the coast where as it happens we found the youth hostel (http://www.scottishcampingguide.com/link.php?n=419&c=22) at Tobha Beag, just happened to be toilet time lol, so we both made use of the services and left our donation (see previous entry re: youth hostels) and had a look at the old chapel remains which includes an isolated grave to an unknow sailor...it was quite a moment, funny how these things can affect you from nowhere. Quite emmotional.
We carried on along the coastal track along the top of the dunes, heading South about 3-4 miles, at one point thinking we had a basking shark sat thirty yards off shore which turned out to be a very big seal pretending its head was a basking shark fin...very clever I thought. We included small detour to cemetary at Rubh Aird-Mhicheil on a promontory off the West coast whder I located some of my possible ancestors from the Wilson clan, my mothers fathers side you see.
Onced we reached Staoinebrig, with no real plan, except for Marian wanting to visit the Kildonan Museum (http://www.kildonanmuseum.co.uk) we decided to jump a bus again, but after we sat in the middle of nowhere for ten minutes waiting for it, we decided maybe we had missed it and then we saw the lovely site of the bus coming along the country lanes...so relieved :-)
The bus drivers so good, friendly, helpful and a mine of useful information, make use of them, well worth the cheap prices.
We started in the museum cafe where we saw the Uist Laird from that programme off the tv with whatisname...Monty Hall who pretended to live on the islands for 6 months (we heard the full story from people who do spend there time living on the island)...anyway...had a toastie which was nice but do feel that salad must be on short supply on the islands, one piece of tomato does not make a salad!
We visited the museum which is small but interesting, although you may find yourself reading the same things more than once but I am sure this will change once they get more contributions.
We headed off again, suitably refreshed, walking South past Flora Macdonald's birth place before heading back to the coast through Gerraidh Bhailteas where we collected a friend from near Milton House, A west Highland terrier that decided, once Marian had said hello, and despite my requests for it to bugher off back home, followed us the next couple of miles to the golf course where, after Marian had got owners off the collar, we rang to say the dog was following us. The owner confirmed that yes, he does that, and yes, he probably will follow us all the way to wherever we are going, so we agreed to head towards the golf course club house so they could pick it up. Once we had lost our track and routes, and once we were seen to be crossing all the golf greens with our fully loaded rucksacks and boots, the dog decided it could find better friends elsewhere and disappeared leaving us looking bloody silly! I wonder if it made it home or if it is still acosting and adopting innocent walkers?
Still, we stopped at clubhouse for a much needed cold coke before continuing and eventually reached the Wheelhouse, Taighean Cruinn Cladh Halainn (all in, about 5-6 miles from the museum, but Marian still does not believe me).
Now, the problem is, I tried and tried to find the wheelhouse, and except for some big holes in the dunes, generally containing old rusty cars or other household items, I was unable to locate it, and having tried to find it on t'interweb, looks like it was easy to miss, maybe I had my hopes of a round stone structure with cooking pots and columns just a bit too high.
Still, found a spot to pitch our tent, overlooking the beach and looking back on Dalabrog, with only slight concerns we were camped within wheeltracks in the grass and surrounded by monstrous rabbit burrows, sure we could have fitted in the holes!
After pitching camp and taking over the two picnic benches set on the dunes with my wet clothes, as my drink tube had come out of my water bladder (much bemoaning and gnashing of teeth) we had dinner. Marian went down to the beach to see the whale carcass there, not sure what type but it has been there a while and then we settled down to watch the local kids on trial bikes and quad bikes whizzing up and down the beach...and past our tent...but to be fair they only did it the once past our tent, gave us a wave and didnt come directly past again but they dont half make a noise from those little engines. Tried staying up for last bit of sunset but soooo tired after a long day. And probably one of our best days as we finally did what we set out to do!
Lights out.

---

Photos

South Uist
Just walked across cuaseway from Bebecula

Stone cross
At Rubh Aird-mhicheil cemetary

Neil with ancestors
The Wilson clan (mothers fathers side)

Neil
fully loaded with next two days food

House at Tobha Beag
Just before you reach youth hostel

Whale
remains on the beach but no bones to take!