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Published: March 27th 2017
The haunting vocals of Katie Stelmanis boom out across the small room where Canadian electro band, Austra, are showcasing their new material.
"There is only one way"
"Future Politics"
The new album was launched on the same day a revolution in populist politics came into power across the Pond and a President decided to become engaged in an argument about the size of an inauguration crowd, as opposed to anything meaningful. I don't know whether the choice of the title track of the album was coincidence or indeed the launch date. The timing to be in Edinburgh on a day of potential political significance was also spooky. The worldwind that was and is Brexit looms large over British politics and this week was to have seen the latest quest of the Scottish Nationalists to push for another referendum on the future of Scotland within the Union. Once in a lifetime! Or maybe not! If we lose! The tragic events outside the seat of government in Westminster had put a temporary hold on proceedings and the planned debate and vote had been postponed. As you would expect, security was tight around the new Scottish Parliament building
opposite the Holyrood Palace. Police units were strategically placed around. The nearby car park was closed, although the majority of media outside broadcast trucks had departed. A police horse unit was saddling up. We alighted from our bus and made our way towards the walk route up Arthurs Seat.
It had been an early start. The train was somewhat quieter pulling away from the station at the North East Premier Seaside Resort at 0624 hours. An initial direct train to Newcastle. A small army of school kids joined at Durham. It seemed Newcastle Grammar Schools for Boys and Girls was a popular choice for the young people of Durham. Standing room only from Chester-le-Street. The media would have us believe, such issues only affect the South East. Once the initial dispersal of passengers had taken place, Newcastle Central was fairly quiet. We kept the morning chill at bay with a flat white in Costa - other caffeine establishments are available. The Virgin train bound for Aberdeen packed. An assortment of life - the Geordie ladies that lunch on their way to Edinburgh, a couple Inverness bound for a walking break and a retired couple heading to Perth.
The first move of the latter was to open a large bottle of spring water ..... filled with wine! It was 0840 hours!! The lady spilled hers over the table within minutes. The train tickets survived, but only just. No worries. A top was available. The lady serving refreshments from her trolley joked on that the seniors were on the liquor. The man snapped back, failing see the joke. "It is free country. ..... or it was last time I looked".The rest of the carriage smirked. Alnmouth looked as attractive as ever. The rain had stopped. The clouds were clearing. The weather was due to improve during the day. The border was crossed and we rolled into Edinburgh Waverley on schedule. A fair number were changing to an Inverness train. "There is no rush. We have 16 minutes" the guy opposite reassured his wife. He clearly wasn't too familiar with the size of Waverley and the distance between platforms. The senior liquor crew consulted their travel diary and concurred the departure time for the Inverness connection. He probably had a note to open another bottle of wine at 1043 hours, but he was keeping that quiet in case he suffered
further castigating. We dropped our bags at the hotel in St Andrews Square.The Other Half was impressed for once on the combination of price and short distance from the rail station.
We set off to climb Arthurs Seat. A mere 250 metres, so it wouldn't take too long. The route was well worn and slightly treacherous, after the earlier rain. The majority didn't seem remotely prepared and we're kitted out with fashion trainers in an array of luminous colours. A bitter wind was blowing in from the sea, which increased in strength with altitude. We passed a group of Canadian football fans, who were probably highly pleased with the efforts of their national team in frustrating Scotland at Easter Road the previous night. They would be among the few to witness it. The general public had not been entranced by the prospect of this international friendly as the crowd was a mere 9,158. Fortress Hibernian was visible from our vantage point, as were the floodlights of Meadowbank. We snaked our way to the top. Snow still capped the hills on the perimeter of the city. The view stretched from the Forth Rail Bridge to the left and
across to distant Fife across the water. Mission accomplished, we made our way back towards Holyrood. All was well until I slipped and covered my trousers in a coating of mud. The luminous trainers could have proved the better footware option. My excuse was concentrating on yet another photo instead of where I placed my feet. We retreated for a coffee in Serenity, which transpired to be a project supporting alcohol and drug rehab. Who says Trainspotting is in the past? Dunbars Garden is described as a secret garden. It was so secret, we were the only visitors. The hidden entrance from the Royal Mile had proved elusive to all but us. The Number 6 bus was running a freelance timetable on the way back towards Hanover Street.
Peak 1 in bag, we climbed to Calton Hill at the end of Princes Street. Peak 2. It provides a closer elevated view of the sites - the Castle in the Old Town and the waters of Leith in the other direction. Today, there was no Sunshine on Leith! It was typical Edinburgh weather. Grey. A cold wind was still blowing in from the Forth. Calton Park was one
of the first designated public park spaces in Britain. The local authorities were persuaded to designate the area for the good of the community and a walk is laid out on the summit. Monuments dominate. The Nelson Monument is perhaps the most recognizable. A large structure of Roman pillars lies in partial ruins. Well, not exactly. The National Monument of Scotland was commenced in 1826. Work ceased in 1829, after the money ran out. It never restarted. The city observatory was covered in scaffolding. The Dugald Stewart Monument at the Princes Street end of the hill is the feature of many a photograph. The splendid St Andrews House below continues to show Art Deco class in a sinister sort of way. The exterior looks like it needs a good clean. It was the seat of the Scottish Parliament administration offices after 1999, whilst the new Holyrood base was under construction. I took a sweeping panorama of the sights, pleased in the knowledge that the concept of panoramic photo views was patented by Robert Barker near this very spot. We descended into the cemetery at the base, where the great and the good lie in their ornate tombs.
Tesco vouchers came to the rescue of our evening meal. We had selected vouchers for Soba - an Asian fusion restaurant with branches in Glasgow and Edinburgh - for this very purpose. Soba have plans to expand into England, we were proudly advised. In a wise move, the Boro had not been selected as a prospective venue. In view of the ale prices, I wasn't totally surprised. The rush hour was surprisingly quiet and the upwardly mobile young professionals of Edinburgh were clearly elsewhere on this Thursday night. Bus 42 deposited us outside the door of our evening entertainment at Summerhall.
Summerhall in Newington is the former Royal College of Vets. It functioned as a veterinary college from 1916 through to 2011. The nickname is derived from the founder - William Dick. The famous graduates include Donald Sinclair - better known as the depiction in the All Creatures Great & Small books - Siegfried Farnon. It is now a public art space venue, hosting Edinburgh Fringe performances amongst other things. There is a micro brewery and gin distillery on site. The music is packaged under the "Nothing Ever Happens Here" logo. Austra had decided on a more
extensive mission into the British hinterland, than is their customary habit. The sizeable Village Underground venue in Shoreditch had sold out the previous evening, so perhaps they could afford to gamble on this experimental show in Edinburgh. I was amazed to see a tour bus parked up outside, which suggested the band had come up overnight and clocked up some serious motorway miles. The Summerhall show seemed some way short of a capacity audience. We picked up our tickets and headed to the bar. The Royal Dick is an interesting choice of name. The bar in the courtyard to the rear is mix of comfy sofas and dining tables. Barneys Beers from the in house microbrewery were on offer and a definite upgrade on the bad old days of Scottish 80 shilling bitter. Gin on tap also available, should ruin be your aim. The walls were adorned with a series of surgical equipment. ... presumably used by vets. ....... and artefacts seemingly acquired from a journey to Africa. The actual gig was in the Dissection Room. We assumed the name wasn't just for effect - a barrel vaulted room complete with what appeared to be genuine tiles for easy cleaning!!
The majority of the tiling was covered with another improvised layer of black sheets. A sizeable bar area was in the far corner of the room, although this is presumably an addition since the Vet School closed and wasn't there to keep the students going in the day. The last time we saw Austra in London, it was pure theatre. We were the oldest members of the audience by a country mile. Tonight the crowd was mixed and the performance subdued. It seemed intentional. The lights remained low throughout the set. Perhaps it was a reflection on recent world events?
Mistress May was scheduled to journey north this coming week to discuss what Nicola has in mind for our northern neighbour. Future Politics indeed!
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Rainyb
Lorraine Brecht
Really?? That's an odd building for a parliament building??