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Published: October 12th 2010
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We´re drawn back again to the West coast of Scotland. The large Isle of Skye, famous for Flora MacDonald and Bonnie Prince Charlie, sits just off the coast, now accessed by bridge. On our way there we drive by more lochs and castles, then its over the bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh and up through the dramatic Cuillin Hills and past the brooding Dunvegan Castle. Tessa and Keith are both wet after an unexpected downpour a few hours ago and the cool wind is chilling. We find a sheltered spot and in moment of sunshine Keith leaps out to whip up a hot snack. Its perfectly timed, as just as he leaps back in, down comes the rain which quickly turns to hail. Camping tonight? Hmmm. Tessa´s not too keen.
In between the showers we´re treated to beautiful light and rainbows across the numerous inlets in the barren windswept landscape. We take a side trip and battle the chilly wind on a walk to the remote Neist Point lighthouse. They´re usually found in dramatic places and this one is no exception. Our hair is blown back as we look over the steep cliffs to waves punching up through rocks far
below us and distant cliff waterfalls fly straight up in the air.
Just past the Tallisker distillery on the coast at Portnalong is our alternative warm and dry accommodation - the Skyewalker Hostel. Recently converted from an old school, this is a real gem and a handy base for walkers on the island. Characters from Star Wars greet us from the walls, its full of travel memorabilia from around the world and apparently there are regular musical jam sessions with the owners. A great place to shelter from the 40 knot winds that come up in the night.
We´ve always wanted to stay in a lighthouse, so for our next night we´re headed to Rua Reidh back on the West coast of the mainland. We take the scenic route, tackling the pass of the cattle on the way to Applecross, passing very large warning signs that the road is unsuitable for certain types of vehicles and inexperienced drivers. The pass is certainly dramatic, steep with single lanes and passing places, switchbacks and hairpin bends. We also encounter some large charismatic animals - highland ´coos´ (which desperately need haircuts) and a herd of around 30 wild red deer, quite
near the road. The black-faced sheep with horns are large but slightly less charismatic.
The road to our remote lighthouse shrinks as we meet the manager on the bumpy track (note for us is on the door) and arrive in time to take in the beautiful sunset. This place is great. Our room is on the second floor of the lighthouse keeper´s house, just under the light itself, with a window looking out over the sea. Throughout the night with the curtains open we can watch the beams of light sweeping through the misty air.
The nearby area the next day offers a great clifftop walk through the heather, passing peat gathering sites - the main fuel for fires in these parts. We get exciting views of sea stacks, cormorants and gannets diving and crashing waves. Another dramatic lighthouse location.
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