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Thursday 1st May - After a satisfying breakfast, it was time to leave Hebden Bridge. Hebden Bridge is buried deep in the crevice of a valley and so it took some time to climb our way up the steep rural stone pathways, that were once primary thoroughfares for the farming communities clinging to the side of the valley. Spring was in the air with flowers daubing the landscape with splashes of colour, but all too soon the grey clouds rolled in and some rather refreshing showers greeted us as we headed across green hills and fields.
We passed Badgers Farm B&B where we saw a sheep dog at work rounding up sheep - Nick had stayed here the night before and we made a mental note to stay here if we ever returned - the surrounding panoramic views here were tremendous, even in rain. The rain did stop on the next hill, Long High Top, only to be replaced with hail stones! At times the rain was icy cold and with the driving wind made it hard to see at times.
The afternoon improved, and by the time we reached Top Withins (the supposed setting Emily Bronte had in
mind when she wrote Wuthering Heights) the landscape was adorned in glorious sunshine.
Our digs for the night were at the Old Silent Inn in Stanbury, but after only 11 miles we had some time to kill and we'd heard great things about Haworth, a town set in the hills and home to the Bronte family. We therefore diverted from the Pennine Way by walking a further 3 miles along the Bronte Way - yes, we did question our own sanity, but the additional walking was was well worth it - firstly to make the most of the afternoon sun, secondly to see Haworth, and thirdly and more importantly to discover the The Coffee House at 10 Main Street, Haworth, Yorkshire (www.10thecoffeehouse.co.uk).
As we wandered down Main Street in Haworth, we thought to ourselves "Wouldn't a cream tea be perfect just about now..." - but sadly it was 6pm and everywhere seemed to be shut...until we reached the open door of No. 10. The soothing classical music drifting out onto the street, and the warmth of the open fire within, beckoned us inside. We were greeted with the warmest welcome, and as we rested our weary legs at
a table by the window, we thought we must have died and gone to heaven! Lining the walls were glass jars of teas an coffees from around the world, and on offer were fresh cream teas and the most sumptious homemade cakes. We started with scones with blueberry jam and lemon curd with fresh clotted cream, followed by slices of 'God's Delight' ginger cake and a chocolate and orange cake...all washed down with fragrant cammomile and Ceylon Orange Peckoe tea. In fact, the only thing lovelier than the cakes was the proprietor herself (and baker of the cakes!), Claire (she is one of the most delightful people we have ever had the pleasure of meeting).
Claire took a real interest in our story, and by the time we had finished, she had taken a leaflet about our hike for the EPT which she was going to laminate and put on display, had taken some EPT pin badges for her and her staff to wear to help raise awareness with her customers, and had refused payment from us by way of instead making a donation to the EPT - these extremely kind gestures made Lavinia feel a little emotional. Feeling
Waterfall and long drop loo...
The stone column above the waterfall is actually a long drop loo!touched by Claire's hospitality and her very kind words, we reluctantly left to make our way to the Old Silent Inn. We just know that this is the best coffee shop in the world (we haven't been to all the others, but we don't need to!), and whenever we're vaguely near to this part of the world, we'll be making a detour to visit again...and we'd strongly recommend others to do the same... Claire's cakes and hospitality are second to none! What a fantastic end to our day. Only 215 miles to go! (Video to follow)
If you would like to donate towards our fundraising effort, please go to www.ectopic.org.uk/fundraising/?p=46 . Thank you very much for your support. Lavinia and Steve
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