Kirkby Stephen to Keld

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The Watershed.

Up and out from Kirkby Stephen Hostel at 9.00am after meeting Denise, her family and Milly (their dog). we both had a hug with Denise and then set off.

Today was the day we passed the halfway stage - up and over the Pennines. We had a choice today; either the low route or the climb to Nine Standards Rigg. I let Ellis choose - I think he might actually be enjoying himself as he picked the higher route to see the Nine Standards. It was worth it - not something you see every day, but it was bitter cold at the top with chilling winds blowing across us, so we didn’t rest for long.

Off now across the moors at the top of the Pennines and the peat bogs. The guidebook warned of the boggy conditions on The return down the other side, but with the drought we felt we had it covered. And so it proved - all the areas that should have been waterlogged and had us up to our knees in mud were hard and dry. All except one that is - and that was the one where we lost the path and had no idea which way to go. There was only one option; to make a run for it - off I went trying to be light on my feet and managed to get across with only wet and muddy feet. Now it was Ellis’ turn - the sprint was on but didn’t last long when he lost a shoe and had to stop and recover it not once but twice (he looked like he needed some help, but no chance I was going back in the bog so he was on his own). He finally made it over and we managed to make our way down.

So the watershed moment had arrived. We had crossed the Pennines which meant that every river we now see for the rest of the journey would no longer flow west to the Irish Sea, but would go east to the North Sea. We are now moving with the water flow….

Had plenty of time today so stopped at Ravenseat for a lovely cream tea and a paddle in the stream for Ellis and then on to our overnight stay. This was at Frith Lodge which I then realised was nowhere near Keld where our route was supposed to take us. This place left us with an additional 2 miles trek down and back up a steep valley ( we would also have 2 miles extra in the morning).

It was worth it. The place was fantastic - the best place we’ve stayed at so far with Neal and Karen lovely friendly hosts. A great dinner with some other walkers (one of the couples there was on the Pennines Way walk and had just completed 28 miles that day!! I checked that they didn’t mean kilometres - but it really was miles).

Bed by 9.30 so we could be fresh for another day walking tomorrow.

TTFN

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