Sept. 10 last full London day

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he London Eye, Wed. Sept 10, 2008 -- another excellent, exhausting day.

Before I forget, I'm going write down a bit about the end of my day today. As I was going back out to get a dinner snack from KFC (the closest thing, because I didn't want to spend $40-50.00 at the restaurant in this hotel), I got into the elevator with a couple dressed to the nines - I think it was probably “paste” given that this isn't the poshest of hotels (altho quite nice). They were quite smart, well-groomed and attractive. She had on a lovely lace over dark purple evening gown, with a wrap, a large rhinestone collar, crystal earrings, a nice bun (not school-marmish - very pretty) wrapped in a small rhinestone snood (I'm sure it was all costume jewelry) - very over-the-top, but tasteful, if that makes any sense. He was wearing a striped suit, definitely evening looking, but not any type of tux, with earrings, and his tie had a rhinestone knot cover. Very posh; I would have liked to take a photo of them (did get a snap of them from the back, but it won't show the effect at all). Also on the elevator were other tourists, some in shorts.

A bit earlier I had gone to the nearby Wallace collection (rather like the Frick, or Phillips - more in a minute). They were setting up for a big evening function of some sort, maybe that's where the above couple were heading. One of the collection's main paintings is a Hals - the Laughing Cavalier, but when I got there, an older flashy woman was posing for photographs by it (professional snapping away, in a no-camera area). She was wearing a long-sleeved cocktail dress that was black lace over nude underlining, and posing away (and moving about in imitation of the painting, and other “model' moves). She had long blonde hair, and must be in her late 60's or 70's. So, I asked the room watcher who she was, and it sounded like he said Vivian Westbrook, so I'll have to see if I can track down who she is. Not sure if she was associated with the event they were setting up for, or with the family of the collection.

(I went back and edited the above paragraph to take out some rather unfavorable comments I made about Ms. Westbrook's appearance, since I'm posting this on the web. When I was at Hever Castle yesterday, I mentioned the occurrence at the table I was sitting at for lunch, and there were two women there from Yorkshire - they said she was a well-known designer - they recognized the name - fo course anyone could make all sorts of disparaging comments about my appearance, but I'm not prancing around getting my photo made in front of a famous painting - just doing the usual tourist posing at famous locations).

I've seen other site photography and event-setting up on this trip, since I've been going to many well-known places - but of course, I don't know what's being photographed or set up.

So, back to the morning, I had bkfst of course (not as good at this hotel as at the Hilton, but probably fine if you didn't have the comparison), quite a few choices. I started out on the bus trip, sat in the first seats with another single woman from Canada who will be on the tour I start tomorrow. We drove around past some areas I hadn't seen yet, and some that I had. Stopped for photos at the Prince Albert memorial. Our “rest stop” break (50p - have gotten used to paying a dollar or so to use a loo, but many here are free) was by Westminster Abbey, for photos of the outside of it, Parliament and Big Ben. I told the guide that I was leaving at that point, hope she understood what I was telling her, so they didn't wait around for me. Passed on going into the Abbey (fee was something like L12.00) and headed off across the Westminster Bridge to ride the London Eye. Got a senior ticket for L12.00; the queue wasn't bad at all. The weather was still decent, good visibility, so it seemed like a good time to go. It's awesome for sure (had a small bit of acrophobic panic when we neared the top, but there's a bench in the middle so I sat back down; you only feel it moving when you're close to the window standing up. The view was excellent. I even bought the photo they take of you in the capsule coming back down, if you stand in the right spot (L8.00 - and I actually expected it to be more, altho that's more than such photos cost in the States, like everything here).

Hoofed it back across the bridge to the Underground station and went one stop to St. James Park to see the front of Buck Pal. (The morning tour was supposed to go on to see the Changing of the Guard, which I'd seen part of before, and didn't trust that she was actually going to the Palace, altho maybe they did, guess I'll find out tomorrow). As I was walking toward the Pal I heard music, so I headed that way, and caught the band, with the big hats, heading into a big yard near the Guards museum, and they had some maneuvers in there, so a bit of luck again - saw some more of the Guard's activities. Finally made it to the front of Buck Pal; it looks much more impressive than what we saw taking the inside tour. And I saw a little more Guard (band) activity, an interesting combo of formal and informal moves as they were collecting music stands. There isn't one of those non-blinking guards near enough for photos anymore; they're back behind a fence.

I walked over to Hyde Park corner, intending to take the tube closer to Kensington Palace; since I had been to my major target sites already, I decided to go back there to see it, and Diana's dresses. I ended up walking alllllll the way through Hyde Park and Kensington Park, which in former days would have been a loverly stroll, but now was rather a struggle. There are about 10 or so of her dresses on display (including the John Travolta one - they apparently rotate clothing exhibits), an interesting exhibit about London's “last debs” from 1958. And there are rooms decorated from Queen Victoria's early days. It was worth the visit (another L12.00 or so), and nicely not crowded at all - a relief from London's teeming millions (plus tourists).

Then I just had a bit of a walk to another tube station to go a couple of stops back to my hotel. I'd bought a boring Egg and Cress sandwich in the park (L2.95) and only ate half of it there, so finished it back in my room, with the King's Ale I bought at the Tower (it's good, chilled). On the bus this morning, someone had mentioned the Wallace Collection was near the hotel (and I hadn't even heard of it before) and the guide encouraged us to go see it), so I walked on over there (what's another few blocks on my poor fee?), and it's also now a free public museum, in a wonderful large former home. An absolutely wonderful collection acquired by a family and given to the nation. It's not huge compared to the biggies here, but more than I had time to see before closing. I hope when we get back at the end of the tour, I will have enough time and energy to pop over there again (would like to get a better look at the Hals, for one, and they have some other fairly well-known pieces as well - I did see the Rembrandt self-portrait). It's about four blocks from here, just up from Oxford street (known for shopping).

I popped into Selfridge's on the way back (our guide said she likes it more than Harrods) - there was a place in the food court that has sushi and stuff on little plates on a round-about conveyor belt. You sit at a counter and just grab what you want; the plates are color-coded for how much each one costs. I don't have the patience to describe these dept. stores - there's nothing like them anywhere I've lived or visited before (maybe in New York?, but I didn't see any there).

At some point today I said to myself that I have seen and done enough for the cost of this trip - it's been fantastic. So my plan for the upcoming tour is to relax as much as I can and just enjoy seeing more of this country. I think it might be a letdown, since this will be smaller sites, more country, gardens, and (hopefully) a slower pace. So far this has been one of those trips you need a vacation from when you're done, so maybe the next two weeks will be more like a vacation: “Country Roads, Gardens, and Stately Homes” is the name of the tour that starts tomorrow (early again!). I'd have to say this has been the trip of a lifetime, altho I still think the Galapagos trip remains my favorite. There's no comparing them, tho - both wonderful trips. (I probably had a few minor complaints on that one also).

I have seen much more of London than I expected to be able to do in my limited time here - fortunately, since it's not likely I'll ever be back, altho there's still tons to see and do here.

Even tho my body and my wallet have had objections to this trip, my mind and heart are overjoyed!

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