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Rain pounding down on the canvas - must be time for another blog ! Shook myself from a deep slumber to hear the promised rain lashing down so no need to rush around. As you can imagine the normal activities of the early morning human are relatively slow in a tent and even more so in the rain. Fortunately I had the foresight to bring swimming trunks and umbrella ! Breakfast was prepared inside the ten - which of course has large safety signs something to the effect of DO NOT COOK INSIDE TENT !!!!!! Seems to me the tent is unlikely to burst into flames in these conditions so with all sensible precautions breakfast was smoothly prepared and devoured - double helpings to lighten the gloom …
I am camped for a few days on a sheep farm just outside the village of Ashleworth a few miles north west of Gloucester. I have the field to myself with the surrounding fields full of large flocks of sheep. On my arrival they gathered at their respective gates and ‘baaaaa’d’ loudly which seemed to be the sheep equivalent of ‘go away’. They soon gave up. They are looked after by a
lovely sheep dog although he seems to be a trainee as on more than one occasion I have heard him castigated for some error. He is it has to be said exceedingly good at holding gates open for cars by standing on his hind legs and pushing the gate back into a wall. Useful trick ….. pity about the sheep.
On Wednesday having finally escaped the Cotswolds I was seeking a B&B so as to watch THE match. This became quite nerve wracking (the search - not the match) as all seemed to be full-up even though it was midweek. Well into double figures I finally ‘phoned a posh looking place which offered a double-room for £37 so with great relief set-off in that direction. Despite the growing number of people who live / travel alone the tourist industry still seems to think the world is populated with couples and their dreadful 2.4 children.
B&B was excellent - ensuite, good TV - actually the last point was the most important. The match as you will have appreciated was quite draining emotionally but at least we can relax now until the next season begins. Funny how the joy of
victory is short-lived compared to the angst of defeat - such is life.
Following day I visited Gloucester despite its rather disorganised ‘Park & Ride’. Should you be tempted to visit G then by all means use the park part but the centre is only a short walk from the car park - so walk. Not a particularly interesting city - another disfigured by late twentieth century town planning. The cathedral IS more than worth a visit … quite glorious.
Moving on …. the Priory Church of St Mary Virgin at Deerhurst is full of interest. Aside from the architecture which includes a variety of styles those of you who have read your English history will know that Deerhurst figures large in late Saxon times when it was one of the earliest and by definition one of the most important monasteries. A number of West Saxon (=Wessex) ealdorman of historical importance are believed to be buried here and in 1016 it was the site of the signing of a pivotal treaty between King Canute and Edmund Ironside. Soon after the monastery began to lose its importance and eventually its authority was taken away and it became the local
parish church. Externally you can still see some of the remains of the secular buildings of the Saxon monastery which have been incorporated into a farmhouse. Inside there is much to admire especially in the Romanesque nave and much else of interest.
The following day I visited Tewkesbury famous for its abbey, battle and of course the floods of last summer. The interior of the abbey with its mix of Romanesque and Decorated Gothic is quite sumptuous almost - but not quite - to the point of excess. This of course is a building with a bloody history and much of that can be seen (not literally !) in the various tombs and chantry chapels. On the 4th of May 1471 many of the Lancastrians defeated in the battle outside the town took refuge in the abbey only for King Edward and other Yorkists to drag them out. Despite the protest of the Abbot they were summarily executed. Although there is a ‘Battle Trail’ that you can follow there really is very little to see although those with a good imagination will be able to envisage the seen at Bloody Meadow - not a good place to be trapped
in heavy armour chased by an unforgiving foe.
…. and (almost) finally ….. a second ‘bloody hell’ moment (the first being when JT missed the penalty). I had seen signs to St Mary’s Church, Kempley, but there are only so many villages / churches you can visit …. anyways being only a mile or so away I decided to wander down. First impression was not one to get the senses racing …. perhaps a more original Norman exterior than usual and a curious use of a light pink whitewash on the exterior of the chancel. The first indication that this is not quite the average Norman parish church is the original fourteenth century porch with the timber frame standing proud - most porches are Victorian Gothic. The door is typically Norman and very much of the local area known as the Dymock School. Open the door and you will have one of the outstanding moments of your life. Quite takes your breath away …. This is not a ‘if you are passing through the area you should visit’… This is quite simply ‘go there !’. The interior looks very much as it would have done 900 years ago and
you immediately feel as if you are in the eleventh century. The chancel arch is quite glorious … one of the finest I have ever seen. The timber doors are the original - some 900 years old. The detail in the architecture of both the nave and chancel is fascinating…… and then…. the frescoes …. forget the Sistine Chapel….. this is real art and much older….. As you will appreciate even fragments of wall paintings are rare …. in St Mary’s the walls of the nave and the walls and ceiling of the chancel are covered in paintings which are considered to be internationally significant. The style is visibly Romanesque although there are elements that are obviously influenced by local Saxon culture yet there are also hints of early medieval Italian and Byzantium influence. The oldest of the frescoes have been dated to the early twelfth century and although as with all churches they were covered in whitewash they have been carefully restored. VISIT !!!!!
It is still raining !!!!!!!!!
Steve
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