Advertisement
When I last left you I had just arrived at my hostel in Madrid and was waiting to get into my room. After settling in I spent the whole afternoon in the incredible Reina Sofia museum. While boasting some of the 'greats', their collection was predominantly from Spanish artists. Picasso and Dali were two artists who were heavily represented. In fact, Reina Sofia is the home of Picasso's famous Guernica, which is so powerful to behold in person. It has been given a room to itself, which is needed to hold the crowds that it draws. I thought that the two rooms on either side were actually more interesting, containing Picasso's studies and preparatory drawings for the masterpiece. To see the development of the symbolism and the ways in which he chose to portray grief are so intriguing and beautiful, and give the finished product a whole other dimension.
There were also interesting exhibitions of photography of the Spanish Civil War and the Surrealists' study of light and shadow in photography and film, showcasing Un Chien Andalou, which I haven't seen since high school. The collection continued through to the 21st Century, paying close attention to Spanish abstractionists who don't
usually show up in American museums. After they closed, I started walking with the intention of visiting the Botanical Gardens, but there was an entry fee and were only open for another twenty minutes, so instead I just continued walking around until about 11 when I returned to the hostel for the night.
Unfortunately, the next morning I woke up with a stomach bug and my plans of going to four museums in one day was crushed. I stayed in bed until 3pm when there was a 'free' walking tour through the city. I decided I could power through, and surprisingly I did! The tour was a great way to meet other people and I met a lot of people from Canada who were a bunch of fun. The tour began in the heart of the city, Plaza del Sol and continued throughout the city looking at buildings and monuments from Madrid's long and diverse history: the Moors, the Hapsburgs, the Bourbons, and more. It was a great way to become acquainted with the city and see some of its highlights: the Opera, Palais Real, Gran Via, Banco d'Espagna, and on and on. The tour lasted three and a
Walking tour group
Note Canada's version of Will Clarkson just above mehalf hours with about an hour break for drinks and tapas (of which I did not partake except for a bottle of agua con gaz). The group really bonded, ending the tour with a group picture. We were all going to meet up a little later to go on the pub crawl put on by the same company. I had enough time to walk back to the hostel (longish walk from where the tour ended) and get ready, but when I got to Sol there was only one couple from the tour. We waited for 25 minutes, but no one else showed up, not even the guide who was supposed to lead the pub crawl. So instead, the three of us headed off to grab a drink (fizzy water for me again) by ourselves. Then I ran into the larger group from my hostel as I was heading home; they had gotten stuck at the train station and hadn't been able to make it in time. So we tried to find a place that was recommended to us, but ended up in Bizzaro World, a bar called the Milky Way that played Rockabilly and covers of American songs mixed with
weird beats, while televisions showed disco and grunge concerts without sound and Tom & Jerry cartoons. Interesting experience.
The next day I went to the Prado with Patrick from Toronto, who was the Canadian version of Will Clarkson. We went all the way through and saw EVERYthing that was on display, even the special exhibitions. The Ribera's and Velazquez' and Goya's were amazing. I don't think I've ever seen so much religious art at one time. Both Patrick and I noted, though, that there were all of these monumental works that may have taken months or even years to complete, but Goya's small drawings often held so much more power and emotion. Seeing his renowned 2nd and 3rd of May paintings hang side by side was an incredible experience. You really see his critique on man's cruelty and inhumanity towards man, and the futility of such cruelty. Absolutely amazing pieces that still hold their meaning today.
After grabbing a quick bite, Patrick and I then walked through the Retiro, a huge, luxurious park on a grid. Then we walked all the way across town to the Palais Real, but made it just as they were closing. Bummer. We
headed back to the hostel and collapsed, having walked for 8 straight hours.
That night I went out for tapas with another friend I made. They were the traditional tapas, meaning that when one ordered a drink it came with a plate of tasties. Our plate included serrano ham, Spanish tortilla (potato omelet), patatas, and a Spanish bruschetta thing. Yummy!
The next day I had a fever, but had already used up my self-allotted sick day, so I forced myself to go to the Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection. I walked, which was a mistake. But I eventually got there and walked through the beautiful building trying to take in the invaluable collection that went from 12th century religious imagery through the Renaissance and Dutch Golden Age to Impressionism, Neo-Plasticism, Cubism, Pop, and everything else that doesn't have a label. I wish I had been in the proper state of mind to really appreciate everything that I was looking at. There was also a special exhibition on Miro's development and representation of the earth.
I was frozen by this point and had to go sit in the direct sunlight for a while to warm up. I then found a bus
Me at the Palais Real
The gates were closed, so I thought I'd climb in. that would take me near the Palais Real, which I had missed the day before. The bus dropped me off further than I had expected and I began walking through the Sabatini Gardens. I could not keep my eyes open, and noticed that though it was about 110 degrees, I kept catching a chill. i was so close to the Palais, but realized I needed to get to bed, so I did.
I felt MUCH better in the morning. I packed up and headed to the train station to head to Burgos. I had planned on organizing the train the day before, but that hadn't worked out. Of course, the train was completo. This led to a dramatic chain of events that reached around the world to Newport, RI and Upper Marlboro, MD. I eventually made it to Burgos and was greeted by Jose-Maria and his lovely girlfriend Marisol. They led me around Burgos showing me the gate of Santa Maria and the Cathedral where El Cid is buried.
After my initial introduction to the city we went back to the apartment building and I finally got to see Nati after five years! I started crying the moment
I saw her, I was so happy. We caught up for a bit before she took me by the arm and led me down the block to one of the oldest churches in Burgos where she goes to mass daily. There's a small park around the church with benches filled with elderly people from the neighborhood. Of course we had to do the rounds so she could show off "mi nina". Then we headed to a wonderful dinner at the restaurant of a friend of the boys. Oh right, we were joined by Jose-Maria's younger brother Raul and his wife Suzanna. We enjoyed a lengthy, traditional Spanish meal as we tried to figure out the language barrier. Raul speaks some English, Jose- Maria speaks some French, and Nati speaks her usual combination of all three languages.
Saturday I went to Mass with Nati before we all headed to Palazuela de la Sierra, their village about 20 km in the hills outside of Burgos. What an experience. The village is so quaint, with only eight people living their year-round. It was amazing to see the room where Nati and her whole family were born, the baptismal font where everyone was
baptized, the house she grew up in with an area for the animals across the hall from the living room. We walked all around and people began to emerge as we passed by. I got to meet Nati's cousins who are about the same age and same size. I think i know what it's like to be Michael Jordan now. Before heading to lunch, we stopped at a former monastery just down the road; it was quite a treat since the grounds are not open to the public, but were opened up as a special favor to the family.
After lunch we returned to Burgos where Jose-Maria and Marisol toured me around while Nati went to Mass again and visited with her friends. We took the tourist train around town seeing the ancient monuments and sights. Such an interesting history. That night we went into town for the biggest festival of the year, that of San Pedro y San Pablo. There were fireworks and a tapas competition and a fair with all kinds of rides. At Spanish fairs a common prize for the little games is a ham. I like that. Suzie and I went on the biggest and
Dinner in Burgos
Clockwise around the table: Nati, Raul, Jose-Maria, Suzie (Raul's wife), Me scariest ride we could find: a rotating, swinging pendulum. So much fun!
On Sunday I went to Mass again with Nati. This was followed by an amazing lunch of paella with Nati, Jose-Maria, and Marisol. We then took a walk along the Burgos 'beach', a sandy stretch along the river. Then we toured two local monasteries which are very important to Burgos. I have never met anyone who is so sincerely proud of their city's history, as the people of Burgos.
I was not ready to leave at all. I packed everything quickly so I'd have so hang time with Nati before having to leave. We sat, watching tv, while having one of the traditional talking sessions. This is not a discussion, but a session during which Nati talks at me about whatever is on her mind at the moment. We covered the usual topics: Jesus Christ, abortion, how the world is lost, her love of chocolate...the usual. I have never seen Nati laugh or smile so much as I did this weekend. Her family obviously cares very much for her and they have a wonderful joking rapport with one another. I was so honored to be welcomed
into their family with such open arms.
Nati wouldn't let me leave without eating something, so she heated up some soup and a piece of fish and we had dinner in the kitchen, just like so many times at the farm. The perfect ending. After a tearful goodbye, Jose-Maria, Marisol, and I went to Plaza Mayor where they had the Spain v. Germany game on a big screen for the entire city. We met up with Raul and Suzie, and everyone came to see me off at the train station. At some point we noticed that Nati was speaking Spanish to me and I understood because I was used to it (even though it had been a while). So we figured out that if it is spoken slowly enough, I understand Spanish. It was funny because Nati would speak Spanish to me and then English or French to all of the Spanish speakers who would then turn to me to translate for them.
I could not have asked for a better weekend. I am sorry that it had to end so quickly. I know that Nati is going to 89 soon, and she was worried that she would
Nati and Me
Walking through Burgos at night never see me again, but I have a feeling we will meet again. I can't post them, but I have some great pictures of Nati in her neon marbleized Easter egg dress, lace stockings, Granny's shoes, and her little red pocket book. Nothing but the location had changed in these past five years. That made me so happy.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.292s; Tpl: 0.014s; cc: 9; qc: 44; dbt: 0.128s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Mom
non-member comment
Bueno!
Annie, What a great story Burgos + Palazuela de la Sierra are. This brought tears to my eyes, too. We must go back! Out of 365 days, you couldn't have chosen a better weekend to visit! Mom