GR11 - Bassegoda campground to La Jonquera, 2 days, 785km done

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Monday 5th September
Bassegoda campground to Camping Maçanet de Cabrenys
19km
7:40-13:10, with a few short stops and 40mins at La Trilla top

Waking up early we did our usual morning routine at an average pace and found a bench by the bar to have breaky and Paul’s coffee. It was then we realised that we actually had a day yesterday with no storms! Not one! However, it was then that we also realised we had itchy feet and legs… insect bites! Argh.

Still, getting going, we walked through a silent local town as the sun rose before starting the days climb. Surprisingly technical to start, with large flat rocks to step on and over, trying not to slip, but it soon returned to the more regular rocky and rooty tracks winding up through woodland. Having started after the other two British guys we soon caught up with them, and leapfrogged with them a few times throughout the day, chatting a bit more each time. Reaching the first high point, surrounded by trees with no view, we enjoyed a flat spot to sit and eat the yummy salt&vinegar Pringles we had found in the campsite shop; it’s important to top up your salts when you’re sweating is much right?!

Carrying on, the track then meanders you and down, thankfully still in the shade of the trees, but with no breeze it was definitely one of the stickiest days we’ve had in a while; pesky lower altitudes! After the final sharp peak up, we finished off the day on track road, spotting and obviously looking in each old building and ruin we passed, until gratefully reaching the campsite. Having been told good things about it, we were happy to arrive and agree what a nice site it was; friendly staff, spaced out pitches with tree cover, clean shower & toilet block, various play areas and a refreshing swimming pool with amazing view and cool straw parasols. Having arrived early enough we managed to get some washing done and enjoy a swim and chance to relax in the sun.

However, within two hours, the weather eerily changed. Having the safety and cover of the bar was good though and meant we could watch the storm clouds and rain roll in, and with the wind suddenly picking up and ongoing rolling rumbling thunder, it was something we’ve not really experienced before and really felt quite biblical. Thankfully it finished as quickly as it started, and although it meant our washing did not dry, we we did enjoy a tasty dinner and get a good sleep.

Tuesday 6th September
Camping Maçanet de Cabrenys to La Jonquera
23km
7:45 - 15:45 with lots of short stops, 20mins in Macanet town, 90mins at bench view point above La Vajol, and 20mins at high point before descent to La Jonquera

With the extra 3km into the actual town still to do from yesterdays stage, we headed out with the plan to stop in the shop in town on route; and we arrived just as it opened, as if we’d planned it! A cute town, we wondered through and out the other side to continue on the trail. The way markings on this section however, did not want to play nicely, and, whilst following mountain bike trails on and off (actually a large network which might be worth coming back to with the bikes!) we almost went wrong several times through the day as we twisted through forests of cork trees. Going wrong at one point though, did mean we got to a massive 200year old cork tree which was pretty cool.

The trail also went past increasingly amounts of old abandoned buildings which were interesting, including a large building built for the mine in that area and used in the civil war by the republicans to hide Spanish money and artwork that otherwise may have been destroyed. We also got to enjoy a good lunch spot at a picnic area / view point with shade and a water tap; perfect to rest and dry out all our still damp clothes and tent.

Unfortunately, after La Vajol, there is a fair bit of road walking on a winding and fast road which was not so fun. Veering off this as soon as possible, the trail remains less adventurous as it stays on forest road track. It also gives a mean climb towards the of the section too, as whilst simple terrain, with less tree coverage and no water since Vajol, (we knew this and did ensure we had enough) we got very hot and extremely sweaty very quickly. The last two days, with a sticky heat and no wind, have definitely ensured we know we are lower and getting ever closer to the Mediterranean.

Hitting the top, again surrounded by trees with no view, we rested to cool down and noticed we could hear…the motorway! Still an hour out and we could hear it! Crazy. Heading on down back under trees, we soon turned a corner and had our first view of the motorway too, as well as our app telling us we had reached 90% completion of the trail! La Jonquera, the end goal of todays stage, was in sight; an ugly truck-stop, border-town sight maybe but still welcomed as we were hot and tired. With fast cars, a fast train line, olive tree farms, and tunnel to walk under, we were soon arriving at our booked hotel and happy to meet the British guys who welcomed us with a cold drink.

Eventually checking in and enjoying an amazing shower, we then rejoined the British guys, and an American we had spotted for a couple days recently but not yet chatted to, for dinner. It was a great evening chatting about the trail and realising how similar yet different we had all been doing it and finding it. A later night then normal, but knowing we had a rest day tomorrow, we were soon drifting happily to sleep.

Wednesday 7th September
Rest day in La Jonquera
0km

Waking at 9am (what a great lie in!) we were feeling good and refreshed, albeit a little achy. Having a small breaky at the bar downstairs (they really don’t seem to do ‘breakfasts’ here in Spain) we headed out for a mini explore of the town. Now, whilst we had been told and knew it wasn’t really a pleasant place for a rest day, as it’s mostly full of trucks, cars and people shopping before crossing the border, we actually found it to be quite an interesting place. Whilst there was a run down vibe about the area, heading into the old town, we found cool old buildings, cobble streets and a really good museum about the exile of thousands of people from the civil war; interesting but haunting, it was really well done with audio guide and videos.

We also found a quirky cafe with great smoothies and sandwiches, before doing a shop for supplies and then returning to our air-conned room to sort stuff out and plan the next final four days of the trail. That’s right, in four days time, we will hopefully be having a dip in the Mediterranean Sea, having walked the GR11 across the Pyrenees. Mental.

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