GR11- Irun to Elizondo, 3days, 65km done

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Irun to Elizondo - over 3 days - 65km done

2 - Thursday 14 July:
Irun to Larrate Gaina wild camp (just after Bera)
27km, 1300m
6am-7pm (including lots of small breaks) and with 3 hour siesta midday at picnic site (just off trail) and 1.5 hour break in Bera

Ready and raring to go (and pretty nervous!) we set off from the safety of our hostal in Irún in the cool morning air, nice and early, with the intent to get most of the climbing done before the midday heat. And what a climb out of Irún it was! Long and steep in parts, we started sweating immediately and were grateful for the working toilet and water taps at the top. The trail then continues bending up and down more gently, and gracefully under the shade of lots of trees. When we hit San Anton chapel at the reservoir before 11am, we were feeling sweaty but good. It was now getting hot but we had surprised ourselves at how well we were doing and felt it was too early for our initially planned siesta there (it would be a good spot though with lots of lovely shade and working water point- the restaurant there was shut when we were there). Instead we filled up with water and continued the trail, feeling grateful for the ongoing tree coverage.

We then detoured off the trail, to reach what the map says was a picnic site with water point. There were picnic benches and lots of shaded grassy areas, with a cool breeze and good view, but the water point was dry. Thankfully we had enough water to rest for a while but knew we’d now have to reach Bera for more water, further then planned, as we would not have enough for a dry camp before (we had bypassed the marked water point at the farm with barking dogs by taking this route, but others said it was only a trickle, and the other possible waterpoint was dry). This high ridge section had little shade and was hot, but we made it! Bumping into another couple (Italian&German) and girl (Dutch), we met earlier, sat in the shade waiting for the shops to open after their siesta. After chatting a while, with the hostel seeming expensive and still feeling ok, we bought some food bits from the shop and topped up with water with the fountain by the hostel (extra heavy!) and left Bera behind. Amazed we felt we could keep going, our enthusiasm dipped quickly as the ascent out got steeper and steeper. The extra weight was definitely not helping nor the fact it hadn’t really cooled that much. But again, we made it! Met at the top of the hill, Larrate Gaina, by the couple again, there was plenty space to all cool off, cook & pitch up before sunset. Tired but optimistic, we settled slowly (still hot) to sleep.

3 - Friday 15th July
Hilltop wild camp to Atxuela wild camp (before Elizondo)
19km
7:30am-8pm (including lots of small breaks) and 1hour break at Lizarrietako Lepoa and 4 hour siesta at marked picnic site on trail

After a restless night (my brain decided to freak out about bears - I’ve been assured there’s none in this part - and well, the first night wild camping always feels edgy) we were slower to get up. We also found a leak in our water filter squeeze bag and my top bag zip broke so this delayed us further, but we were still away early enough to enjoy the cooler morning and see the sun rising. As we dipped down (trickle of water source found a nd used) we met a German guy and we spent the first 3minutes trying to talk to eachother in Spanish before realising none of us were native and English worked best (he can speak 5 languages!) We hiked together a while, winding up hill under tree coverage, to the border line at Lizarrietako Lepoa with two restaurants, waterpoint and toilets;a cold drink here defiantly welcomed.

Continuing on, the sun got hotter and we made it to a marked picnic site with lots of shade and a, broken but semi-repaired so working, water point. It worked so strong it made do for a hose down and clothes rinse. We enjoyed the cool breeze and constant water here for a few hours, meeting all our trail mates again and chatting, before setting out again at 4pm. It was definitely not as cool as we had hoped (again-I think we’ll learn soon) but bearable. Again though, the extra weight from water carrying, up a long steep climb, was tough. Slowly but surely we reached the top at Atxuela and decided that was enough. There is a picnic site with waterpoint further on closer to Elizondo but we were done and as we had enough water for the night, decided to stay put and enjoyed the awesome views, sun set and curious sheep.

4 - Saturday 16 July
Atxuela wild camp to flat spot wild camp 2km south of Elizondo
19km
7am- with 1hour break at Maistruzar picnic site and 8hour resupply&rest stop in Elizondo

That was a great nights sleep! The spot had amazing views, lovely gentle breeze, not many bugs and nice soft ground (perfect for tent pegs but also a quick cat hole!) we drifted off easily to the gentle sheep baas and bells (some might find annoying but we enjoyed the reassuring and calming sounds) and were a bit gutted when the alarm went off at 5. Itwas a stunning sight though, opening the tent to moonlight with a herd of sheep sat nearby all looking over. After a little pre-breakfast and camp pack up, we were back on the trail.

An hour later, after some gentle ups and downs, and a few rocky and slippy descents in woodland (glad we didn’t push ourselves last night) and we were at Maistruzar picnic site with working waterpoint, and lots of confident ponies. We also found our German and Dutch friends again , who appeared glad to see us as they had thought we’d be there last night so worried we went wrong! After some time chatting and cooking breaky, we headed off again and enjoyed a slightly technical but enjoyable winding descent through woodland into Elizondo.

Arriving at 11am, it was obviously time for a third breakfast at the first cafe you meet on your left (fantastic tortilla and coffee!) and given it was already 27c we figured we’d look to stay here. However, with no campsites and all accommodation booked as far as we could find, we were outa luck. But by now it was way too hot to walk (35c) and getting hotter, so after a resupply shop (turns out the supermarket stays open all day-no siesta break!) we found a shaded spot under trees in the church grounds with waterpoint (lots of working taps around the town) and stayed there the rest of the day; fantastic as it reached 43cin the late afternoon! There was also free, clean, with soap & tissue, public toilets near by - amazing!

With the German guy having gone straight through, and the Dutch girl finding a room just out of Elizondo for a rest day, we then saw the other couple again. Like us they planned to wild camp just a little further on but went on ahead of us, as we waited as late as possible, after eating dinner (tastey pizza place) to leave; 8:45pm and still around 28c! After about 30mins we followed a ferny trail off the path into some woods, and found a great little spot , just in time to pitch before needing torchlight.

With a few more hot days ahead, and heavy bags loaded up for 4days food, I think shorter days with just walking mornings is what we’re going to have to do, wild camping until hopefully reaching Burguete with campsite & shop nearby. Slow and steady and sweaty!

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