MORELLA

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My journey from Benicassim to Morella involved a bus to Castellon (getting off at the last bus stop), a taxi to the bus station and then an almost 3 hour bus trip to Morella. The direct route between Castellon and Morella is about 110 km, but the bus travels in and out of 13 villages . On the way we dropped off parcels, changed drivers and even though by this stage the bus was running 20 minutes late, stopped to have a chat with a mate! I was beginning to wonder if it was going to be worth it. A number of people had recommended a visit to Morella but getting there is not the easiest thing. Rounding the last hill, Morella came into view. Like Toledo, it stands high above the surrounding countryside. It looked incredible! The bus journey ended in the garage of the bus company, and after asking for directions from a local, I proceeded up hill and to the left! Twenty minutes later I arrived at the Hotel Cardenal Ram, hot and sweaty, and puffed. I was taken to my room by the receptionist. We seemed to wander along different corridors - I thought that I must be in a 'room out the back'. Wow! I think this is the best room yet! Plenty of space, a luggage rack for my bag, and a great view!
Morella is 'an outstanding example of a medieval fortress town, .... crowned by a castle and girdled by an intact rampart wall over 2km long' (Lonely Planet). The population is around 3000 and the town is 1000m above sea level. There are a couple of museums and some lovely shops selling local produce (honey, sheep and goat cheese, and truffles) and handicrafts. I visited the Town Hall ( a gothic building - awarded for its restoration), the main church 'Santa Maria la Major' (with a small museum) and the 'Jardines le Poets'. Access to the castle is through the Convent to Sant Frances, with a cloister and church. There are plans for this to become a state hotel (a paradore).
The walk from the convent winds around the crag that the castle is built on. You pass an arsenal with very thick walls and a double entry, a canon, a guard post, a cistern and a bakery - all with information boards explaining their history (in English!). There is also a museum, with an audio visual (in Spanish!). The final ascent is up 98 steps to the main square with a well and the remains of various rooms. The views are well worth the climb.
I wasn't going to do any more shopping - but how can you resist the work of the locals - I bought a woven wool rug (floor or lap she told me!) It's not heavy but just takes up space in my already overfull bag!

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