Camino de Santiago de Compostela - The Way - Underway!

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Friday, August 21, St. Jean Pied de Port, France to Roncesvalles, Spain

GPS 15.83 miles 9 hours walking, 4500 feet elevation gain? Arrived 1725

Harlan left on his Camino at 8:25. After breakfast we walked through the Market or Navarre gate, down to the church and through the traditional start of El Camino, the Notre Dame gate. It is a beautiful morning. The sunrise revealed mist over the pass, down the valley, toward which Harlan would soon be heading.

I return and see the message that they, have indeed, sent our luggage off to Paris. This is all very mysterious as later today, upon arrival in Roncesvalles, Spain, there will be a text indicating a courier had picked up the bags for delivery. I do not know where he was headed! Part of the Paris snafu might be that the hotel in little St. Jean is on Charles de Gaulle Square and they read only that part of the address and shove it off to Paris, even though the equivalent of our zip code and a region must be entered in the baggage claim form before it is even 'sendable.'

A friend had asked if I remembered about the travels of Flat Stanley. I do and saw several versions used at school. An item would start in one location, an interesting picture be taken, and then the bear or whatever, would be sent to another location with the request that a friend take an interesting picture etc., etc. and pass it on. It would eventually be returned to the first sender. The original Flat Stanley could be mailed quite easily. One time a teacher went on a lengthy trip to Europe and she took pictures of a flat figure, wherever she might be, and then mailed them back to the school. So, taking the latter idea I 'borrowed' a wooden paper doll (rather an oxymoron isn't it? Actually it is made of wood and has magnet strips so one can put different clothes on the doll, just like an old fashioned paper doll.) The doll is a little blondie, like Madeline, and we attach it to paint stirrers to hold up in a certain location we would like to take a picture to send to Madeline for her to see. It does make you attempt to see scenes through a child's eyes and what would appeal to them. In a way, I wish Blondie was in the lost luggage as I would really like to know where our items have been! If Blondie is as vocal and erudite as Madeline I am sure we would get an earful!

O.k., to get back on task. Harlan will now write about his trip over the Pyrenees.

As Karen has indicated I started my stage one of the camino one day later than planned. This is 27 kilometers (km) over the Pyrenees from St. Jean Pied de Port - the gateway to the mountain passes from France to Spain - to Roncesvalles. After purchasing a shirt, hiking socks and hiking shorts, I am starting in my trusty, Rick Steeve's city walking shoes, by Rockport. As Jo Finestead will attest- the way starts out walking up a very steep road, the gr65, and gets steeper. Oh, I forgot to include Mike and Pat Cary who also did the Camino more than 13 years ago. Karen and I have a few more years on us than either you or Jo and the bottom line is at the end of the day I knew it!

I left the Porta de Notre Dame at 0823 with my first step of the 800 Km or 500 miles. In the first 5 km (3.2 miles ) I had climbed 600 meters, 1980 feet. Several years ago in Chile, to the base of the towers in Torres del Pine, I had a 7000 foot ascent in 7 miles. There are always comparisons to be made!

In this time I was passed by 15 pilgrims; several I would overtake later on the walk. A German man and his niece were the first individuals I chatted with. Then the Brazilian gal with music coming out of her pocket exclaiming about the gorgeous scenery and vistas. I played leapfrog with a couple from Texas, Craig and Katherine, and chatted as we walked when they stopped I went ahead and visa versa. I stopped for a coke and bathroom break at Huntto (km5) and a Spanish potato pancake at Orisson. We had been scheduled to spend the night before here but the bag issue precluded this. I filled both bottles of water at each of the two fountains along the route. In all I consumed more than 76 ounces of water during the day. I saw the sheep, the basque ponies and a few birds. Other than that not any significant wildlife. Oh yes, the numerous lizards. I stopped to have cheese, bread and a banana at Roland's Spring near the top but not at the 1450 meters high point of this stage. The descent into Roncesvalles was steep. I chose the "suave" smooth or more gentle route. With hiking boots I might have attempted the other, but not today. I stopped 2km from the end to see the chapel of Roland and his memorial stone. I arrived at La Posada de Roncesvalles at 5:23, just nine hours from the start having covered 15.8 miles. Very tired and with aching spots all over - but especially hips and shoulders.

Oh, the lesson for the day - find a way to sneak clippers thru security so you have them before beginning a hike, in case your bags do not come with you!

Karen- I reluctantly decided to take the local bus to Roncesvalle, Spain, about four miles over the border. I had thought long and hard about those 18-19 miles of hard climbing and decided I could do it if we stayed at Orrison, a hostel about six miles up the mountain which would break up the trek. We had communicated a number of months ago and had a reservation. However, when the day came to hike up to that interim stop, (yesterday) we were in St. Jean, waiting for bags that never arrived from Toulouse! Today, if the trip over Pyrenees was to made by foot, it was going to be in a one day effort! I declined and took the bus to Roncesvalles to meet Harlan later that day.

I arrived in Roncesvalles on a most beautiful, early afternoon. I tried to orient myself to the numerous buildings of the complex and headed to the information center. They directed me to our lodging, La Posada de Roncesvalles.

Roncesvalles has quite a history. The pass nearby is the traditional site of the Battle of Roncesvalles, 778, in which the Basques, in revenge, ambushed and wiped out Charlemagne's rear guard, led by his nephew, Roland. Charlemagne had been fighting against the Muslims in Spain and was retreating over the Pyrenees. Unfortunately, he had ravaged some towns south of the Pyrenees and razed Pamplona. This event was the basis for the long epic poem, The Song of Roland.

Later there was a hospital built to take care of the many pilgrims who were endeavoring to get to Santiago, many miles away.

The Colegiata de Santa Maria was constructed at the end of the 12th c. and beginning of the 13thc. The complex is beautiful and I took a Pilgrims Tour of the many facilities. The guide was a young woman, very enthusiastic, who conducted the tour in both English and Spanish. We toured the Colegiata de Santa Maria that was built in a French gothic style. Unfortunately that style does not hold up well under the severe weather in the Pyrenees and they had to replace buttresses and build an 'envelope' around the church. This, of course, cuts off the light for the stain class windows. We climbed way up above to view some original flying buttresses.

We walked the centuries old cloister, the surface made of river stones fashioned in a floral pattern.

Off of the cloister lies the tomb of King Sancho. A statue covering the tomb is an indication of why they called him King Sancho VII the Strong--the statue is 2.25 m tall--a very big guy! He was the victor in the famous Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, fought against the Muslims in 1212. As the victor against the Arab King Miramamolin, he took chains of protection from the Arab and they are displayed in the chapel. Tradition has it that these chains make up the coat of arms of Navarre.

We visited the Museo-Biblioteca that has a library and archive open only to researchers. The museum is small but very well done and had beautiful items, including Charlemagne's enamel and silver chess set and the 'Emerald of Miramamolin' that Sancho supposedly snatched from the Arab in the famous battle.

I returned to our lodging to find Harlan at a big round table eating the Pilgrim dinner of pasta flavored with sausage, wonderful fresh trout and big green salad, followed by tart yoghurt. I squeezed in to join the jolly group. This lodging is where Martiin Sheen and the crew that made the movie, The Way, stayed. The proprietor says Sheen has returned a number of times. In the bar is the photo of Martin Sheen, the proprietress and the leading lady from the film.

We finish just in time to head off to the Pilgrims' Blessing in the church. We do not understand much of what is said but we intuit a great deal. One scripture from the book of Ruth is read in English. A long list of nationalities is read off--people doing The Way. We are asked to greet those around us. We are surrounded by bikers--all in excellent shape and most friendly. We do not take communion but go forward for the blessing. Harlan estimates over 200 pilgrims were in attendance.

The chapter house is open after the service so Harlan sees some of the items I saw earlier.

To bed and a good night's sleep due to very thick walls and shutters that completely darken the room. We have both soaked in the tub and hot water is plentiful. My idea of how to end a day!!

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Photos

Central Hotel
We will be back here again

Portal Notre Dame leaving St. Jean
A journey of 500 miles begins with a first step.

View looking back towards St. Jean
One of a thousand vistas of the lush green valley as you climb and climb to the top of the Pyrennes

The view ahead
A fellow pilgrim on the climb ahead

Self Insert at the Rocks of Roland
Many pilgrims have stopped here for a rest or snack but I press onward and upward

The Fountain of Roland with Blonde
This fountain alleged to have been originally build at the spring by Roland in the late 700's. The second of two water replenishment sights. Good and cool!

Basque Ponies
This group of horses I had to actually walk through. I would estimate over a hundred in the groups I saw on the hills.

Colegiata de Santa Maria at Roncesvalles
Here we attended the Pilgrims Blessing Mass. Harlan estimates well over 200 pilgrims from 30 different countries were in attendance this evening.