Roncevalles to Larrasoaña, Another Tough Day, 27kms

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THE CAMINO-EAT WALK SLEEP REPEAT.

I saw a t-shirt in Roncevalles with this take on a popular novel and film, that just skims over a day on the Camino de Santiago. Add talk, help, meet, pain, love, empathy and respect, and you start to appreciate the emotions and feelings that you can expect to encounter, and probably experience, walking the Camino.

In a world of ‘fake news’ and false promises espoused by governments and organisations that hide behind contrived values with clever acronyms, the Camino is the real deal. If you expect nothing and accept everything, the Camino can change lives and reset priorities . Cultural diversity, religious and secular differences, coupled with language difficulties encourage us to listen and accept this new community that becomes your family for 5 weeks. I will rely on these people I have yet to meet, for company, help and friendship . It’s a giant leap of faith. So far it hasn’t let me down.

Today started at 3.15am with the alarms in the albergue blaring through every floor. Only one person went downstairs, as you should ,but I think everyone else had my approach, after today they just turned over in bed, content to burn. It would be quicker and less painful than the walk. As no staff stay in the albergue the alarm was active on and off for hours. I have since learnt from Bob, a fellow pilgrim, that one of the inmates had attempted to escape. The doors are alarmed and if you leave after a certain time, we now know what happens.

I started the day at 7am and was accompanied to Burgete by the sounds of owls in the forest and cowbells. There was also the threatening sounds of large dog barks, no doubt coming from a large dog. After working out how to blind him with my head torch and then stab him with my walking poles I approached Burgete with brave confidence.

The small villages break up the day providing opportunities for rest and food but it was a long day ( 8.75 hours for me) to be walking. There were few natural paths and I seemed to be going up steep hills, and what goes up always goes down. The paths were mainly concrete or loose rocky tracks with shards of slate crisscrossing, forming uneven surfaces and deep gullys.

It was just before Zubiri, at the end of the worst section,that I had my fall. Very uncharacteristic I must add, although many who know me would wonder why there haven’t been many more.

I was walking along with a 27yo Catalan girl, disgussing the state of politics in Spain, and Catalonia in particular, when I stood on some gravel that was covering a smooth rock. I went down like a bag of.....anyway, there is no controlled fall when you have 11kgs on your back. My new friend broke the fall a little, and with a lovely concerNed look on her face, asked me if I was OK? Her second question, that l thought doubled as a statement, was,” And what age are you to be doing the Camino?” Ok, it turns out I’m one year older than her dad. Point taken! If the truth be known, I’m possibly one year older than everyone’s dad. We continued our walk into Zubiri, still chatting, although now more about how she understands English well but has difficulty understanding me. I told her, very slowly, that my son is always saying that.

To allay any concerns, there were no injuries except a sore elbow, no broken skin, and a dent in my pride, and the man who is one year older than her father continued to Larrasoaña, while she sought a bed in Ziburi. She was a pleasure to walk with, was genuinely concerned for my welfare ( I suspect she is aware that old skin breaks easily) , and chatting does take your mind off the walk and all of a sudden you are at your destination.

I now have 3 compeed blister patches on the big toe and the balls of my feet, as the track today was developing a few warm spots on my feet. Other than that I’m good. I had a nice chat with Bob and Mary in Zubiri and secured a bed in the Albergue of my choice; the third last bed. I’m on the top bunk as I wasn’t prepared to toss a coin with a female fellow walker who could be about my age, ( I know she won’t read this so it’s a safe guess). I assured her I’ve never heard myself snore so she’ll sleep well. I did a bit of clothes washing today as they were threatening to walk to Santiago by themselves. Hopefully the breeze will dry them out before morning.

This is a great place and it’s all here; nice company, good facilities and a great meal. Another day down but even though tomorrow is shorter, it’s going to be 31°c, and 32°c the next day. I’ll start walking early on that one. It’s Alto Del Perdon day. Up another mountain.

I’ll post some pics and try a couple from yesterday. Here’s hoping

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Photos

Never look back.
I climbed those mountains you know. I can assure you I know.

View from Orisson
....and there was still a lot of climbing to go.

The food van
A little oasis about 2/3 up the Pyrenees. He sold his own sheep cheese as well.

Almost heart shaped.
A lovely little peep into the Spanish countryside

Me and all me mates at Zubiri.
Not quite true, I joined Bob and Mary.

Vive la Basque
Now there’s a local issue.

Read more, kill less.
The philosophy on the Camino is very deep. Sometimes it doesn’t even make sense.