The Cow and the Ego

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I finally decided that it was time to write out a rough schedule for my remaining time in Spain. Up until now I have been off the grid lines of calendars and dials of the clock, which is as it should be. However, time lines continue even without our participation and I had to plan my arrival into Santiago. I´m not proud to admit it but cheating was necessary. I hopped a bus to knock off about 5/6 days of hiking. Regrettably, I missed some of the middle section of the country but it was well worth it to spend my remaining time in Galacia. Galacia encompasses the northwest territory of Spain and has faint similarities to the Appalachian mountains. I feel at home climbing through the mountains, in between the trout streams and the hardwood forests. (I even had dinner at a small bar that was playing bluegrass music.) That being said, it rains every day in Galacia. Every day. Today was no different except I got lost:

For the sake of time I will try to be brief. My day had already been atypical. Morning was spent dodging rainstorms, eating lunch in a living replica of a 16th century hamlet, and fighting bitter winds with a bit of sleet and snow. All of this and I was still in high spirits. High enough, in fact, I decided an extra 5 km on top of my planned 25 km was necessary.Then the day turned for the worse. At a small town of 10 houses the trail took an unexpected left and I continued with large confident strides straight as an arrow. My road soon turned to gravel, which soon turned to mud. Well, the steep downhill trail served as a drain for the 20 surrounding pastures so mud is being a bit euphemistic. I thought it odd that the Camino be in such rough terrain but marched on down the trail I had begun to lovingly call the Camino de Shit. (or more properly annotated, The Camino II) At 1/4 mile my brain began to realize I was lost, but my ego was far from accepting the fact. I continued down the mud-slide another mile until I came around a bend and met a massive bull standing mid-trail. I stared dumbfoundedly at the cow wondering why he should decide to meander in the middle of the Camino de Santiago. He stared back at me with his big, black, glassy, cow eye even more dumbfounded as to why I would be hiking his Camino de Shit. I decided he was the wiser of the two, tucked tail and made the painful climb back up The Camino II.

Relatively dry, lucky to find the trail again, and in a picturesque town, I should have called it a day. Unfortunately, the moral of the ego and the cow had yet to penetrate my interminable denseness. Embittered at the small town from whence I was led astray, my ego and I decided that 8 Kilometers to the next town was the only way to express my displeasure. I passed a lovely and warm hostel smugly content to be continuing on... until the Thunderstorm.

The rain gods had become tired of my obstinacy and saw fit to rain down on me the holy terror of thunderstorms. Everything I owned was soaked: socks, shirts, sleeping bag..... At the close of the 10th hour of hiking and close to my 40th kilometer I came upon my destination. In one last twist of the knife I was forced to stand aside as a farmer led 30 of his cattle up the road to fresh pasture. Each cow passed mooing with delight at the sight of my idiocy.


As I sit here regaining feeling in my hands and feet I can safely say I have learned my lesson. When the world is kind enough to show me subtle signs of the errors of my arrogance (a cow that obviously outwitted me), it is best to take notice, count my blessings, call it a day, and live to hike a drier tomorrow.

(Sorry for the length- I thought it sounded more exciting than I had a long days hike in the rain. Pictures to come soon.)

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Photos

THE COW
one of the cows I´ve talked to along the way. They only speak Spanish so the conversation has been a bit one sided.

king of the castle
bought a room all to myself in Leon.

afternoon porch break
at a nice hostel in the mountains of Galacia

Galacia
This is the most sun I´ve seen in a week

parade
The cows making a mockery of me

Alone on the hill
solitary chapel overlooking a small town