Day 28, 22nd October 2014: Sarria to Portomarin, 23kms

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Today we rose very early, had a caffe con leche at a bar, and walked in the dark for the first 40 minutes. You could tell immediately the numbers on the Camino had increased. The peaceful morning was gone and many new walkers were upbeat, enthusiastic,and laughing and joking. The first couple of kilometres out of town were steep uphill on rocky paths; the crowd quietened down as people became aware of the path ahead. We all think it is easier than it really is and I hold some of the guidebooks responsible. They certainly are out of touch on some of the conditions, describe sections in ways that don't reflect reality, and play down the fitness required and the strong likelihood of feet becoming a painful problem. We consider ourselves lucky that we can spare the time out of our normal lives to do the Camino. Many countries do not have our generous leave provisions and people have to take the shortened route. It's not a criticism of them, it's just their reality. Some though do seem to have tour vehicles ferrying them between some points and it makes me wonder what the achievement is in going that way. Everyone is different so no more said about this.

We stopped at Cruce after about 4 kms and saw Doug and Libby. We walked with them, chatting along the way, and before we realised we had completed 10 kms, almost half our days' quota. We had breakfast and Doug and Libby had just a coffee and moved on. At Moutras we stopped for a cup of tea and bought some small souvenirs and invigorated, we left and didn't stop until Portomarin.

This town used to be a major port and route to the west in Roman times, and the bridge has been destroyed and rebuilt numerous times since it was first built, before roman settlement In the 9th century. In the 1960's a dam was built downstream for hydroelectricity and the town was relocated to higher ground. Since then, the dam has been made obsolete and as the water level dropped the old roman settlements on the bank and the bridge have been revealed again. It's amazing to imagine how this was a thriving port over a thousand years ago.

We are settled into a nice room in a private pensione and will probably eat somewhere nearby tonight. Tomorrow we have 25 kms to cover but Santiago is in sight; I can almost smell it. It's amazing to think this trip will be over soon but I think no one would leave it unaffected. I would do it again in a year or two, change a few things , be better prepared and carry less gear. For now though we will savour our last four days walking the Camino, forget the blisters I seem to have developed recently, and take out of it what you can.

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Photos

Oils ain't oils
The range of olive oil at Sarria's supermarket.

Approaching a private house.
The path splits the property in half.

Comments

[Home and Away]

I see they have cleaned up most of the graffiti...
I hope it stays that way. Well, you are almost there!

[sherrys]

Graffiti.
No they haven't. It's still very common; on monuments, houses, those marker signs, everywhere. Spray paint, permanent markers, they are disgraceful. An example that sticks from yesterday is ' I'll wait for you in Portomarin, Lauren' , on a stone lintel on a cottage in a hamlet. No respect for anything it seems!

[D MJ Binkley]

Mystical
Amazing

[Michelle McKean]

Four days
Wow four days left, on the home stretch!! Such a big achievement, sounds like you have been through so much but what an incredible experience! -Michelle

[Ian and Anne]

Hola!
Good one, guys. Thanks for your updates. Great words, great pix. Rupert might make you an offer!

[sherrys]

A call from Rupert
That makes me shudder. I'm reading Paul Barry's book at the moment and it seems not all calls from Rupert are positive experiences. Two days to go, time flies! Catch up in Dec.