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Published: October 28th 2016
Santiago Road
Onward we walk!28 and 29 September 2016, A Day in Santiago.
These two days we reserved for visiting the Cathedral and the museums of Santiago. We met Chuck and Li as they had just arrived this morning.
First order of business was to obtain our compostela. We go to the Oficina do Peregrino which is in a new location from last year. Areas for pilgrims waiting for a number to flash on a screen overhead that will indicate for them to move into the office, have been established all around an inner garden. I can only imagine how the pilgrims appreciate the fresh air while they wait in the heat of summer. Most pilgrims head right for the office upon arrival and, for many, it has been awhile since the niceties of a bath and clean clothes have been experienced.
We revisited the figure of St. James behind the altar in the cathedral. This was a very smart move as later in the day the line to visit St. James and put ones arms around his shoulders and then visit his tomb below the altar is very long, out the door and across the plaza to the east.
In
Li and Chuck arrive in Santiago
We meet them as we are going to get Compostelas the sanctuary, the seating area near the altar had reserved signs from front to back. We concluded that tour groups had paid for reserving these seats. So we sat for the twelve noon pilgrims mass, perching on the footings of the stone columns. This did mean we had the front row for the processional of the priests who walked right by our hard stone pillar seats.
Of course the announcement that photography is not permitted was made. When a lady disregarded this her camera was taken and all photos erased. At the end of the service the botafumeiro was ignited and swung across the church. This is very hard to photograph but the majority of the people had cameras out and running at this point. Originally the giant incense burner was used to fumigate the sweaty, and perhaps disease ridden pilgrims. Our video of it is good but will not upload here.
For lunch we all convened at the White Horse. It is a jolly good time. This is one of our favorite places. Granddad runs the bar. We believe it is the son that oversees all the tables in the big square. He enters through the door,
yelling out the order and Pop starts pouring the drinks. There is a young girl in the kitchen and is probably also related. Pop and son occasionally have heated words but everyone is so busy the problem is put on hold!
The afternoon drifts away. We visit the market which shares a common corner with our hotel. Vendors are slowly packing up and the cleaning crew move in.
I had corresponded with Ayako and found out she had been to Muxia and would be back in Santiago tonight. So I suggested we meet at our hotel and have dinner together. Karen has located the Black Cat restaurant. So after walking to the restaurant we found it did not open for another hour. When the smokers cleared a bar nearby we stopped in for a drink and to wait. As Jo is sitting on the bar stool, the Italian pilgrim who had walked the first part of the camino with Ayako came into the bar. Jo greeted her and turned to Ayako and said, "Look who is here!" The photo tells the story.
The smell of liver at the Black Cat was too overpowering so we found another
restaurant to eat before retiring for the evening.
On the morning of the 29th we walked to Tertulia for breakfast. This is a favorite restaurant from last year. One can order American style breakfasts and the coffee is delicious. Jo has been in contact with Fritzi and Lee so they join us along with others they have kept in touch with. I found this restaurant listed on a blog, "A Texan in Spain." The blog is written by a young man who comes to work as a teaching assistant in Spain and falls in love with the country and its people. His blog is funny as well as informative.
Today we return to the cathedral to hear Father Joe from Ireland give a mass for English speaking pilgrims at 10:30. It is held in one of the many little chapels that ring the main sanctuary. This program is only a few years old but Father Joe has become quite a figure on the Santiago scene. He is a big man and has an interesting delivery of the service. He is nearing the end of his six month stay. He has said in April there are only a few
at mass. Today the chapel is packed and he mightily endeavors that no one be outside of the iron gate of the chapel. He keeps finding room for one more 'skinny pilgrim' on a bench inside. People willingly sit on the floor, double up on little chairs and try to make room for one more. This year his homily is on listening for how God is communicating with us. The old testament uses angels and dreams and visions. Today individuals experience visions, casting of the fleece, and dreams to perceive what God may be telling them. With all our communication methods today the noise interferes with our hearing the message. We must have patience and make enough time and a place in our chaotic world, to listen for what plan God might have for one after the Camino. There is a bowl in front, on the floor; nearby one can get paper and pencil and write a prayer to be put in the bowl. Up near the altar are baskets filled with pilgrims' prayers that will all be read. We are not Catholic but can go forward to receive a blessing from the priest. It is quite moving and one
really feels the power that Father Joe transmits to you. This mass is one of the highlights of our Camino.
Late in the morning we wave good by to Moira and Julian. How they will be missed! They have been great travel companions and friends.
After some window shopping we visited the market then walked to the pulpa cafe we had gone to last year and had such good octopus. Well, the Padron peppers were as good as ever but the octopus was not. So after a disappointing lunch we went back to the hotel. There is a magic time that one boils the octopus and in this case some of them were not cooked enough. Oh my, we had waited the whole trip for these pulpa; a disappointment!
We wanted a good place for dinner so Karen consulted Trip Advisor. We could not find the first place at the address and street given. Walking to another restaurant we passed a concert band playing near the 4 horse fountain by the pilgrims entrance to the cathedral. We enjoyed a complete number before moving on to the next restaurant which we also could not find. Jo gave up
on us and went back to the hotel to eat. Karen and I decided on soup and salad from the Caballo Blanco - White Horse. It was good. They make the best Caldo Gallego soup. Tonight they add pineapple to the green salad.
We check in with Jo in the dining area and then retire. Since the hotel has one side next to an old square it is very, very noisy. Too many pilgrims celebrating a little too much. We rise early tomorrow, don the boots and head for Cape Finisterre (Finis Terra) or 'End of the World.'
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