Barcelona, 2010

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***www.thetattooedtraveler.com***

Barcelona is probably the greatest place I have ever been. I realize there’s a tendency to have the fondest recollections of the most recent place you’ve visited, but there’s more to it than just that. While I have wonderful memories of most of the places I’ve traveled to, very few, if any, seem like somewhere I could live for a long period of time. In every aspect— food, culture, aesthetics, climate, etc.— Barcelona is extremely welcoming and immediately comfortable.

Barcelona and the Catalunya region have a distinct culture separate from the rest of Spain; people here are Catalonian first and Spanish second. Some Catalonians even want independence from Spain— we walked through a rally for sovereignty while we were there. Interestingly enough though, when Spain won the World Cup a few days later, everyone was “Spanish.” While they may rally for independence, I got the impression it’s mostly a show of solidarity. Realistically, I think they know that they’re better off remaining part of Spain; they just want to preserve their distinct heritage and customs, and rightly so. Franco tried to eradicate Catalan culture, and apparently there is still a lot of resentment amongst Catalonians.

Barcelona is arguably the best food city in the world, but a white tablecloth dinner isn’t necessary to have wonderful food. Definitely have tapas; they are quintessentially Spanish. The small size and incredible variety encourage sampling. Most places have tapas right on top of the bar, so go from place to place and take a look at what they’re offering— be adventurous and try something out of your comfort zone.

Some tapas places offer tables and waiter service. El Xampanyet (Montcada, 22) is one of the best— recommended by both Time Out and Top 10. They are known for their champagne, though we opted to have beer. This place is packed and it can be difficult to find a table, but the wait staff is very good at helping you find a seat; we lucked out and were seated quickly. Simply order “tapas” and the waiter will bring over a variety. We had a plate of cured meats, a potato omelet, a cheese plate, tomato and olive oil rubbed bread, and jamón on bread. Everything was excellent. It seemed like a family-run place, which is nice; the waitresses were definitely sisters, and the men behind the bar appeared to be their father and grandfather.

Tapaç 24 was another place that was highly recommended. We got a seat at the bar and waited for someone behind the counter to acknowledge us— and waited, and waited. I am used to the European dining experience being more laid back, and I like that just fine, but this was ridiculous. While the woman behind the counter fiddled with the register and receipts we waited without even a “we’ll be right with you.” Finally we got a couple of beers and an appetizer, which was mediocre. Maybe we caught them at a bad time, it seemed like the lunch rush had just ended or maybe they were changing shifts, but with so many other places to eat in Barcelona, I wouldn’t bother going back to this place.

One of the best meals I have ever eaten was at Cal Pep (www.calpep.com). There is always a line at Cal Pep, but it’s worth every minute of your wait! There’s counter seating and as you wait behind the diners, you see and smell the wonderfulness that’s being made right in front of you. The waiters, cooks, and head chef/owner all negotiate the small space behind the counter with great skill and efficiency. All the food is fresh— some of the seafood was still moving on ice behind the counter. Once seated, the waiter brings your food as it’s ready— there’s no menu, and what you get is different from the person sitting next to you. There may be a dish put in front of you that seems odd or unappetizing, but eat it! It may be out of your comfort zone, but it will be one of the best things you ever had. We ate:
• Bread smeared with tomato and olive oil
• Salt crusted, fried jalapeños
• Breaded and fried anchovies mixed with a fried egg (even though I like anchovies this seemed odd to me, but was amazing!)
• Clams in white wine and pimento sauce
• Calamari (not breaded) sautéed with butter and veggies
• Sautéed razor clams
• Sautéed merluzzo (white fish) with fried potato and grilled tomato
The staff and owner at Cal Pep are very friendly and will let you know if you’re eating something the wrong way. They told us to take the clams by the shell, scoop the broth, and slurp the whole thing down. The owner instructed one man to eat the heads on the shrimp, proclaiming that when in the Mediterranean, you eat the Mediterranean way, not the way you eat at home. That may sound a bit intimidating, but they are very nice about it all! Cal Pep is an absolute must if you are going to Barcelona!

La Boqueria, right off of Las Ramblas, is another must for food lovers. This market has a variety of food stalls; there’s wide selection to choose from and it’s all fresh and local. Wander around and sample whatever catches your eye. At Puja Mar, I had bacala, breaded and fried cod balls (who knew cod had balls so big?), which were very tasty. At Narisc Nineta, I had fried calamari and stuffed, fried mussels; the calamari was great, but I was not a fan of the stuffing in the mussels. Bar Pinotxo serves tapas and is probably the most famous place in La Boqueria, but it can be difficult to get a seat.

One of my most memorable meals had more to do with the “view” than the nondescript café where I ate. While eating breakfast at the café across from our hotel, two naked gentlemen were strolling through the plaza— apparently “sausage” was on the menu. One of these distinguished gentlemen had a tattoo of a face strategically placed so that his penis was the nose. Yes, very ingenious and quite memorable.

Barcelona is noted for its unique Art Nouveau architecture. The Spanish Art Nouveau architects were called Modernistas, and the most famous of this group is Antoni Gaudí. Gaudí built various privately commissioned homes throughout Barcelona, and some offer tours. The most notably are Casa Batlló and Casa Milá, both located on Passeig de Grácia. For me, the highlight of Casa Milá was the sculptured chimneys on the rooftop— they look like knights’ helmets. Casa Batlló is more expensive to get into (€17.50 as opposed to €11), but the interior tour is much more extensive.

While Gaudí’s houses are interesting, his unfinished masterpiece is La Sagrada Familia (www.sagradafamilia.org). Construction began on this cathedral in 1882, and is not expected to be complete until around 2030. Money for the project comes solely from donations, and entrance fees help keep construction moving (donations may also be made online). The central nave was enclosed in 2010, and two of the three façades have been completed as well. The Nativity façade was built under Gaudí’s direction, but the Passion façade, on the opposite side, is distinctly different with angular, modern sculptures. When finished, the cathedral will have a total of eighteen towers, though to date only eight have been completed. The style is an Art Nouveau interpretation of Gothic, meaning that it’s Gothic in its structure, but the forms are organic. For example, the columns in the nave that support the roof are thick at the bottom and branch out like trees toward the ceiling. The ceiling itself has sculptural elements resembling a forest canopy. Gaudí’s workshop is on display in the crypt beneath the church and contains many models, drawings, etc. The whole experience is amazing, and I will be very excited to go back one day and see the cathedral once it’s finished.

Park Güell, another Gaudí vision, is located outside of town a bit— it’s accessible by the number 24 city bus, which can be picked up from Plaza Cataluña. The park was commissioned by Eusebi Güell as part of a plan for a housing development. The development ultimately failed, and the park is all that is left. Its unique and beautiful structures make it unlike any other park. The longest bench in the world, covered with broken tile, looks like it could not possibly be comfortable, but it was ergonomically designed to provide support and comfort. The Room of One Hundred Columns, originally designed to be a market place, provides respite from the blazing summer sun. There are many other Gaudí sculptures and design elements to see, but in summer, it’s best to go early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid the scorching summer heat.

There is much to see and do in Barcelona. In addition to what I’ve mentioned, there’s the Barcelona Cathedral, the Church of Santa Maria del Mar, Roman ruins, the Picasso Museum, the National Museum of Art of Cataluña, the Palace of Catalan Music, and the list goes on and on. You could easily spend two weeks, a month, or the rest of your life in Barcelona!

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Comments

[AnnaAdventuring]

You have a lovely 'snapshot of Barcelona' with your photos there. I love the city and I think you have captured the best bits! Great blog!