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Published: October 25th 2015
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3 October 2015, Saturday. Stage 28 Villafranca del Bierzo to Valcarce
GPS 9.95 miles, 3 hours 11 minutes moving and 3 hours 55 minutes from start to end of day walking at Hotel Valcarce . Left at 0915 and arrived at 1310.
Fitbit: 19851 steps, 8.69 miles, 46 floors
A cold 36 degrees as we walk through the Plaza Mayor and stop for cash from an ATM.
On the weekend the breakfast in the Parador is 30 minutes later. And with the group of 39 Australians touring by bus from Paris to Santiago, breakfast is slow like dinner last night had been. But it is a good spread with buffet style self service. We had booked this Parador after they had sent an email indicating that they had had cancellations and now had a room. We obtained the Pilgrims special rate which included breakfast each morning with the room. It has been a pleasant two night stay and a much needed rest of the feet.
There are three options between Villafranca and O'Cebreiero. A fire two months ago has burned over half of the upper route with its steep climb right out of Villafranca. The other
route to the left also is steeper and longer and does not stop at our hotel in Valcarce. From Brierley, our Camino guide book, we learn that Valcarce is from the latin Valle and Carceres which means deep valley. Indeed the sun does not get to the river valley floor where we are walking until after 11 AM. Except for the noise of the cars on the N-VI local road and the A-6 motorway trucks it is a peaceful walk along the crystal waters of the Rio Valcarce as it flows over the rocks and through the tall trees. They are a variety of cottonwoods and sweet chestnuts.
Our path is along the N-VI for most of the time and all on pavement. We stop in Pereje for a tonica and bathroom. Next is the Albergue in Trabadelo for a coffee con leche, chocolate croissant and bathroom. (too much orange juice and coffee for breakfast). The parks along the river have some bright red ivy climbing the tree trunks. Fall is definitely in the air here and other leaves are starting to turn. The gardens are rich with great looking vegetables even at the end of the season: tomatoes,
cabbage, brussel sprouts, and other varieties can be seen.
As we near La Portela de Valcarce we see a large billboard for our hotel - it is a truck stop off the A-6, full service gas, restaurant and hotel. On the Rio Valcarce we see what looks to me like a fish hatchery. Karen says it looked to her like a sanitation facility. But a little distance up the road is a sign to the Piscafactoria. (I think that means fish factory).
So we arrive early in the afternoon. The hotel has a good internet connection so we can catch up we hope with past blogs and mail.
Well, this hotel, Hotel Valcarce, turns out to be a very pleasant surprise--the Spanish truck stop hotel! We wanted to break up this day and options were limited. The room was, well, 'roomy!' Everything worked! Security was excellent. Our dinner in the dining room was excellent. We were eating early--yeah 😊 The dining room was set up for several large groups but they had not even shown up by the time we finished our leisurely meal. The WIFI (by the way, it is pronounced Weef-fee in Spain) was wonderful
Our dinner of soup and salad
Caldo Galicia or a Bierzo variation. and we were able to have a full breakfast early in the morning. We are continuing to check the weather as it does not sound good for the next few days.
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