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Published: October 4th 2018
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San Anton, near Castrojeriz
Medieval monastery established to serve pilgrims It gives me the shivers walking into Población. Four years ago, Sue Tim and I were entering the village, when Sue tripped on a raised concrete road and landed on her head with the full weight of her pack behind it. I recognise the exact spot, because there is still a dent in the road. It was a problem that was eventually resolved, but clearly showed how your fortunes can change in an instant. I’ve experienced numerous examples of that since and realise that we can’t control everything and sometimes things go wrong, through no fault of your own. I’ve learnt it not what happens in life that matters, but how you react to it. Mindfulness 101.
Last night was pleasantly quiet in the albergue , and after breakfast l left the village with a torchless companion, who walked with me all day.
I can’t remember her name, and after calling Dave, Barry , in the last post ( sorry Dave), I’m not going to guess. She told me her name but remembering names is another thing to add to my long list of shortcomings.
She was from Cologne in Germany, worked in IT, and we chatted and
walked at a medium pace until we separated at Fromista, with me walking another 3.5kms to Población.
We had regular breaks, the first being after the steep climb to Alto Mostrelares, that was predictably matched with a hazardous descent onto the relatively flat paths of the Meseta. We were treated to continuous sparse fields of the faded stubble left after harvesting and a few convenient shady nooks to rest and drink in before continuing. We discussed our lives and family, and as often happens on the Camino, revealed facets of our lives that you wouldn’t to people at home.
I saw my North Korean friend who was walking with Fernandina and her two Brazilian friends. She is now claiming South Korea but she needn’t worry; it’s our little secret. The other ladies call her Mum and had me take a group picture for them, and then insisted on another including me. They are a well suited little group and are walking for religious motivations.
As we approached the last hill before Boadilla, a middle aged lady dragging a cargo trolley loaded with her luggage was just ahead. She had spent 3 days in hospital in Burgos and
Albergue Rosario, Castrojeriz
Highly recommended as a very authentic building to stay in. Generous hosts, ample delicious meal and the best company. was told not to carry her pack anymore. Determined to travel at her own pace, and stop where she liked, she shunned the more convenient bag transfer system. You really have to admire her grit, and any minor quirks my body still has, faded into insignificance. I know that woman will make it.
After an early lunch in Boadilla Del Camino, I decided to go the extra 3.5kms to Población and stay in the €4 albergue; the only one I saw bedbugs in last time. A good check and I was sure I was safe. What was I thinking?
Walking into Población, a man from the first albergue you saw, was touting for customers, but I told him I would walk on. I soon realised from his sign that we were talking beds, not bunks. I was sold on the idea and walked into the best albergue I’ve seen so far.
Not just individual beds, but booths with a curtain, your own light and power and plenty of space to spread out. I virtually had a private room.
I’m not leaving this place today. My washing is on for free and dinner is in the bar.
Dinner In Rosario
A noodle paella with grilled chicken, humus, crunchy bread ( compulsory at Spanish meals) and ‘Heavenly Chocolate ‘. And it was. I’m set.
Tomorrow is an easy 17kms walk into Carrión. I’ve booked a private room that has 2 singles but that’s the life of a lone pilgrim. Someone suggested I find a buddy to split the cost but, as I’m a day ahead of schedule, I’ve already saved one night’s accommodation cost. And the albergues in Carrión are generally church run and often basic.
I’m seeking some comfort, before 3 long days on the Meseta, as I march into León for a well earned break.
I’ve walked 357kms, reach the halfway mark in 3 days, and have 18 days walking left to Santiago.
Tim joins me on the 26th and we continue to Finisterre and Muxia. That’s where the journey ends.
I’m not sure whether I’ll learn anything about myself, I know I’ve already benefited from the companionship and wisdom of fellow pilgrims.
Maybe Sue will just ask why I’m so late home for dinner.
It wouldn’t be the first time.
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