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Hi Everyone,
How do I make a blog interesting when I am freezing cold and sick of the weather? What happened to sunny Spain? I figured you can´t just read about the good bits - you have to go through the pain too. The last week has been getting colder and colder and wetter. At the end of the walking day a lot of us just go to bed to get warm, (no not together) or else hang out in smokey bars. But there´s only so much Vino Tinto one can consume before dinner.
I have checked the weather report and this will continue for at least the next 4 days, max 11C, wind chill 5C and rain (which translated means MUD).
I am wearing thermals and 5 layers - my pack is lighter because I´m wearing ALL my clothes - there is a silver lining in every cloud. The lighter pack is counter-balanced however by the extra 2kg picked up in mud per boot.
The scenery is still lovely though - at least when I get to look up from the muddy path to peer through the rain at it. Are you getting the picture? I was concerned about having to reacclimatise to the Adealide winter on my return - no problem there!
I have been fantasising as I walk about sunnier climes. So when I finally got an internet connection to work since I last blogged I checked the weather in Rome, Paris, Venice and the walking area of the Cinque Terra - yes all 27C. I figure there is some pilgrim walking at the moment who has lots of penance to do and we are all having to do it with him. Yes it´s got to be a HIM! We girls aren´t that bad.
Ok, enough griping and on to the walking.....since my last blog
Santa Domingo de la Calzada to Tosantos 28.9km.
I felt good after resting in Santa Domingo and headed out through lush wheatfields, and a path lined with Queen Anne´s Lace, Borage, Camomile flowers and yellow Canola. As it got colder that day, even the birds stopped chatting. This day the villages were well spaced for coffee breaks. I particularly liked the tiny village of Viloria de la Rioja, the birthplace Santa Domingo. It was very atmospheric with a plain church and so old. I was thinking about stopping in the next bigger village of Belorado but there were lots of roadworks happening and the streets were just mud. It made for a very medieval feel with the old buildings and churches. The towns and villages all have town squares called Villa Mayor. This Villa Mayor in Belorado was particularly fine with a wrought iron rotunda surrounded by liquid amber trees. These trees are pruned back in winter to their arthritic knuckles but not before some of the branches are grafted together to create an arcaded blend of trees. It is beautiful. Imagine what autumn must be like as every village has these trees with some of the bigger towns and cities having quite elaborate avenues of them.
Another coffee and I walked on to Tosantos, my bed for the night. This tiny village is on the N-120 but doesn´t lose any atmosphere because of that, except it is hard having a converastion over a beer outside the bar as the trucks race by, especially when it is a group of 4 languages. The little albergue here is another parish run number - donation only. The building has huge exposed beams with white-washed walls and thick timbered stairs. There is not a straight line or floor in the place. I feel like I´ve been popped back in the 12th Century. The hospitalerio was the most gentle and caring man I have met. He carried my pack upstairs to my mattress, cooked us dinner, sang a welcome song, and generally looked after us like we were family. He set an atmosphere of kindness and goodwill which permeated the pilgrims. We were all a happy bunch that night. I slept on the floor between Italy and Czekoslovakia (both young and good looking fellas).
Breakfast was the usual bread and jam, but he made REAL ESPRESSO in pots for us. Won me over!
Tosantos to Ages 24.7km
I walked out of this little gem of an albergue into the wheatfields lining the path and there stretched before me was a beautiful rainbow - so close, I felt I was about to walk beneath its glorious arch. The air was cold but dry and the walk into the small village of Villafranca was a pretty one with the wheat, barley, poppies and a host of other wildflowers. The little bar in this village had a smallgoods section with one corner hung with the local cured jammon- hams. It was like walking into a market stall selling coffee and beer as well - just great.
All the chatting in the bar - so happy and looking forward to the day- little did we know. Yes you guessed it, not long and the rain set in. Actually it pelted down. We had been walking up through oak forest, the new leaves very pale and still only just beginning to unfurl. The trunks were covered in lacey lichen and in the mist it was all very surreal. But reality hit with the rain. The forest changed to pine but I dinñ´t see it - I was too intent on not slipping in the mud. Fortunately the track became more sandy and the going was easier. For 2 hours, I just put my head down and went for it.
I ran into Yook, who told me later that he was pleased I came up behind him as he had slackened off the pace and I got him going again. By the time we got to the next Bar we worked out we had been moving at 6km/ hour. We didñt talk much, just took rhythm from each other. It was a real help. By the time I left the bar it was sunny - windy but dry and the walk over the grassy hills with spreading oaks was a joy. I´m glad I took my time over my hot chocolate for the weather to clear.
The little town of Ages was another gorgeous village and a welcome stop for the night.
Ages to Burgos 27km
A few of us cheated the next day and walked the three km to the village where we were able to catch the bus into the city of Burgos. We decided to miss the long trek on the main highway.After the mud and hard walk of the day before it gave my shins a rest as well.
Burgos is an attractive city and the Gothic Cathedral pretty amazing but I was eager to get back into the countryside, and not wanting to harp on it too much, but srolling around a city when it is freezing cold and wet is not much fun. I did have some luxury in a lovely little rustic hotel - with heating. It was much enjoyed as none of the albegues are heated..
The famous Meseta is next, but that will have to wait until my next blog.
Send warm thoughts and weather if you can. Thanks for reading. It´s good to know you are all with me as I walk and shiver.
Cheers,
Annie
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Jane
non-member comment
you poor thing!
Hi Annie, I'm reading your blogs with such excitement for you, but today I'm trying to visualise you in a halo of sun and warmth - hopefully the weather changes for you soon. Glad to see your body is performing well and you're walking strongly. I'm taking notes of your comments of the albergues etc for my own camino. Keep well and enjoy the moment, Jane x