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Published: September 25th 2008
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We arrived in Salamanca two days ago after a pleasant drive out of the Basque country and down onto the plains of Castilla y Leon. So much of the drive reminded us of Oregon, first of the western part of the state with lots of green and hills and trees and vineyards and then we could easily have been driving in Eastern Oregon with stretches of dry farm land as far as we could see.
The directions that we had to the hotel were daunting as each turn was marked and some were only 10 meters a part. We rushed towards the city trying to determine what street we were on, but signage is difficult to spot at intersections. Soon the streets had narrowed and turned to cobble stones and we decided that we were totally lost and I concentrated on not hitting pedestrians or other cars while going fast enough for the driver behind me. Suddenly Sam exclaimed that we were actually in one of the locations on our directions, and a minute later, after we were sure we had missed several turns, we were once again in an identified location! Before long I was stuck behind a car
Salamanca
The old men in the plaza that had decided to just park in the street (they do that - stop the car and turn on the hazard lights and that seems acceptable as a parking spot) and when we looked up we were at the street where our hotel was! We moved our stuff in and drove to an underground parking garage and have left the car there for the past two days.
Salamanca is a beautiful ancient city with a large university that has educated historic figures including Cortes. The University was founded in 1218, when the city of Salamanca was already 1000 years old! The day we arrived was the first day of new student orientation and the streets were alive with college kids - dragging suitcases while studying maps, carrying dorm-size refrigerators to their flats and later walking around town singing and chanting in various odd costumes as part of some sort of initiation. Each semester we have some Willamette students who study here and I kept remarking on the contrast Salamanca is to Salem! The Plaza Mayor is only 2 blocks from our hotel and it is the gathering place of the city. The plaza is huge and once held bull
fights and was the opening scene in a recent film, "Vantage Point." There are numerous restaurants around the plaza and cafe tables are set out in front of each. We have enjoyed several stops for coffee or a glass of beer or a gelato with the constant entertainment of watching people. We are most impressed by the number of older men and couples who stroll the streets, and especially the plaza together. They are dressed up in their best clothes and the couples walk hand in hand while groups of men walk together, many with canes and some offering support to an older man by tucking one arm under another. Often we'll see a grandfather with a toddler or pushing a stroller.
We haven't been very excited about the food here. We have eaten in places recommended by British guide books and have wondered if that is our mistake - where do the Italians eat when they are in town? Things are expensive here and what we have had is pretty bland. Tonight we will either make a meal of tapas or we might go to an Irish pub or a place called "Giovannis" and have some pasta! Some
Salamanca
The University of this is our own fault for not having a better grasp of the language and ending up with random selections from the menu - with tapas you can see what you are ordering ahead of time.
I have done some shopping and got two pairs of shoes and a couple shirts. There are endless stores and boutiques scattered among the even more numerous bars and restaurants. Even here in the larger city things close up at 2 PM for siesta and then open again about 5:00. Today we decided to take advantage of the quiet and have enjoyed time in our room reading and napping.
Tomorrow we drive to Portugal where we spend our first 4 nights in our own cottage over looking the River Dao. The place we are staying has mountain bikes and suggested routes so we hope to get some exercise other than walking.
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Andrew
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I always liked Mexican food more than Spanish food whenever we had it in Spanish class. I hope you figure out what you like though! Miss you.