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Published: October 14th 2011
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www.thetattooedtraveler.com The more I visit sleepy, little, backwater towns of Europe— like Sienna, Bruges, and Toledo— the more I love them. Once political and economic powerhouses, these places were forgotten by time only to be rediscovered by tourists centuries later. Like mummies, they’re preserved in the state they were in, seemingly unaffected by centuries of modernization. Yes, they’re touristy— most of their economies center on tourism— but they’re also a window into the past.
Toledo is only a 30-minute train ride from Madrid, making it an easy day trip, but I decided to spend a night and take my time exploring.
It’s important to know a bit about Toledo’s complex history to fully appreciate its splendor. The Romans, Visigoths, Moors, and finally Christians all ruled this impressive hilltop town at one time or another. It was both a center of religious tolerance and the frontline for Spain’s Reconquista— the expulsion of the Moors from southern Spain by King Alphonso VI. Christians took back Toledo in 1085, and it served as the capital of Spain until the 16th Century. These civilizations and events all left their imprint on the city’s architecture, food, and culture. It’s most famous for marzipan and Damascus steel,
and souvenir shops hock both, but the Alcazar is Toledo’s real treasure.
The Alcazar, once a mighty fortress, was almost completely destroyed during the Spanish Civil War. This iconic structure now houses the Museo del Ejército (Army Museum). Entrance to the Alcazar (€5) is through a modern edifice, which houses an excavation of the building’s Roman foundation. From the lobby, escalators take visitors over the excavation and up to the main exhibit. Inside, the story of Spain’s military history is told from the early explorers through the present. Uniforms, armaments, flags, and medals of every sort are displayed in pristine condition, along with numerous other artifacts. It took less than two hours to get through the entire museum, and it was one of the most interesting exhibits I saw on my trip. If you are in Toledo or Madrid, the Alcazar is a must!
The Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo is the town’s other main attraction, and though I don’t like the idea of paying to enter houses of worship (€7 in this case), it’s beautiful and a major reason to come to Toledo. This Gothic cathedral is not the largest I’ve seen, but it may be the most
ornate; every wooden and marble surface seems to be sculpted. The carved, wooden alter-piece took seven years to complete; it stretches to the ceiling and is decorated with paint and gold leaf. The entire Cathedral is really quite a beautiful sight!
Before heading to the Cathedral, I grabbed some lunch at La Campana Gorda (c/ Hombre de Palo, 13). A lot of older locals congregate here to sip vermouth and chat the afternoon away. The bartender and staff are friendly and the simple, yet delicious tapas are worth a stop in.
Later that afternoon, I stopped into Gambrinus Cerveceria for a beer and some more tapas. The tapas here were not the typical cheese or cured meat on bread; instead, they served stewed meat baked into a flaky crust. They also make a venison stew that looked great, but I skipped it because I was there a little too early for dinner.
That evening I had beef stewed with peas in a tomato sauce at La Cuesta. The meal was alright, but I regretted not having the stew at Gambrinus instead. The beef stew at La Cuesta tasted vaguely like “Sloppy Joe.”
The next morning, while wandering around looking for
breakfast and some postcards, I stumbled upon a gem: Damasquinados y Artesanía (Plaza San Salvador, 4) is a little jewelry shop where all the work is handmade by the owner. His tools, alongside some pieces in progress, lay on his worktable in the front window of the shop. The owner is a very friendly gentleman and we chatted for a little while; he told me he’s been making jewelry for 49 years! I purchased a beautiful pendant from the shop for €40. Similar looking pieces can be bought around town for a less money, but they’re machine-made reproductions— if you want a hand made, one of a kind piece, this shop is amazing! If jewelry isn’t your thing, he also makes chess sets.
Marzipan can be bought in every gift shop around town, and Santa Tomé is one of the better brands, but nothing beats marzipan made by the Sisters of the Santa Rita convent. Convents all over Spain sell sweet treats to the public and, no surprise, they do it better than most anyplace else!
The Mezquita Cristo de la Luz illustrates Toledo’s diverse history. Like many houses of worship in Toledo, this church was once a mosque. The
Moorish architecture is evident in the floor plan and arches typical of many mosques. However, as much as this looks like a mosque, the large painting of Jesus on one of its walls clearly denotes its conversion to a church. Toledo’s mosques and synagogues were converted to churches after the Muslim and Jewish citizens were expelled during the Reconquista.
Likewise, Santa María la Blanca, originally used as a synagogue, was also converted to a church. Throughout Toledo’s history, Jews, Muslims, and Christians lived together— sometimes peacefully, sometimes contentiously.
La Iglesia de los Jesuitas has incredible views of the main Cathedral and the Alcazar from its bell towers. The staircase inside the towers leading up to the top is a bit disconcerting to say the least. The metal stairs hug the outer walls, and with no inner wall, the view to floor below is clear— I’m not sure if it was worse to look down at the floor or up to how high I still had to climb. I’ve had nightmares like this where the railing disappeared. I literally thought I was going to have a panic attack; my heart was beating so fast I could feel it pounding in my
ears! The view was definitely worth it though! All the churches, synagogues, and mosques (other than the Cathedral) had an entrance fee of €2.30.
All in all, Toledo is a wonderful travel destination and worth much more than just a day trip! The history, sights, and food are incredible and certainly should be appreciated unhurried. The train from Madrid is €20 and the city bus from the station to Plaza Zocodover is €0,95. Certainly worth the money!
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