Unsung Heroes

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Geo: 43.461, -3.80793

Too much time in Logrono ... I would've loved to catch a morning bus to Santander, which is one of my favourite places in Spain, because that would've given me some beach time there today. But on weekdays there is only a 16:30 bus that arrives at 19:45 - BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! Of course, Logrono isn't the worst place to waste a few hours away - after all, is any place in Spain bad for just hanging out? A bit of coffee, a bit of lunch, a bit of Rioja, lots of time chilling on Logrono's pedestrian streets ... come to think of it, it was quite the pleasant morning and afternoon!

Tried visiting Franco Espanolas Bodega, not so much for wine tasting, but because I harboured a hope that with a name like that, it would be packed to the rafters with Spanish women, kind of like a Spanish version of the Playboy Mansion. Perhaps that thought was the child of excessive Rioja consumption lately, or perhaps it was just one of my many delusions while in Spain ... probably the latter! The visit to Franco Espanolas was a bust - all of the Bodegas reduce staffing once the off-season hits, so the girl running the vinoteca portion was unavailable to sell me a glass to try, presumably because she was off giving a tour. Another worker said she'd be back in a little while, but I didn't have time to hang around since my stomach had other plans.

A place called Entrepuentes for lunch - more good bread after the tasty breakfast sandwich! What's going on???!?!! Crisp and soft inside, it was slightly reminiscent of a kaiser roll, but better. I had originally wanted a simple meal like a kebab or mixed plate, but was tempted by the lunch menu here, not so much for the first or second courses listed, but because some of the dessert choices included nectarine or watermelon. The Spanish diet is lacking in nutrients - I need fruit!!!

Late arrival in Santander - I've got three nights here and would've gone back to Pension Luisito again, which is owned by my Spanish granny, but decided to stay the first night at a place in the centre instead, because of the aforementioned late arrival, and also because I would be day-tripping tomorrow. There's no point in staying at her pension out in El Sardinero where all the beaches are, if I was going to leave relatively early tomorrow for the town of Comillas.

Santander is great because it offers a bit of everything - the beautiful beaches of El Sardinero, with its slightly touristy but fun vibe, and the energy of the centre, where all the shops, pedestrian zones, and cafes are. It doesn't have that cosmopolitan French flair that San Sebastian has, and while beautiful in places, it doesn't have that uniformly gorgeous architecture of Barcelona's Gothic Quarter - some places here are even a tad gritty. It's lively, but not over-the-top crazy like Barcelona can be; its food isn't gourmet like the Basque pintxos of San Sebastian, but it's decent by Spanish standards. Santander somehow strikes a nice balance, and is almost a mix of the two cities, if that is at all possible.

I love returning to places in Spain and having that feeling of familiarity - as I walked around, everything started coming back to me ... it has been a year after all, and I have only been here once before. But it was funny, as I remembered obscure things like "Hey, I quickly ducked into that bar last year to pee!" I had that same moment of recognition a few times as I walked around tonight, which made me wonder if I actually remember which bar I ducked into to pee, or if I actually did that in three or four places last year.

Calle Vargas - not really a neighbourhood marked on any tourist map of Santander, but I stumbled upon this great little street last year and loved it. A tad gritty, it has a nice pedestrian area where families hang out at cafe patios while their kids play nearby, and feels like an everyday neighbourhood where people live and enjoy Spanish life to its fullest.

I even went back to the kebab shop where I ate on my first night in Santander last summer. This time, I opted for a kebab wrap, instead of the usual one stuffed in a bun, and also went for a beer and fries to accompany it, not the bottle of water I had with it last year. It's kind of sad that I remember such small details on what I had to eat here last year, but honestly, some of my best memories over the years have been of eating kebabs - pathetic, but true! As I ate, I also remembered that this place while good, overstuffs its kebabs with too much meat. Kebabs were available all over the Balkans but I purposely avoided them, because I knew that out of necessity, I would be eating more than my fair share of them while traveling in Spain.

As I ate, I realized something about unsung heroes in the world ... what about the kebab man? Because of him, no backpacker on a budget will ever go hungry, since a kebab man seemingly pops up during your darkest moment, when your stomach is running on empty. Because of him, no backpacker will ever go cold, since a few moments in front of the kebab oven will warm you right up, although care must be taken, as too many moments in front of it could give you third-degree facial burns. Hungry at 3 AM? The kebab man will find you! He only lets you think you've found him but in reality, he miraculously appears when you need him most. A simple kebab man? I think not - the kebab man should be made a Saint!

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Photos

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Rich, creamy coffee today ... the cafe con leche is generally great in Spain but for whatever reason, there have been some suspect coffees thus far - it was nice to get it back on track. Nice breakfast combo - great crisp and chewy bread in the serrano sandwich, with some good freshly-squeezed OJ. As far as simple breakfasts go, you can't ask for better.

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I spent a LOT of time enjoying the patios on this pedestrian street while in Logrono.

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Entrepuentes - kinda funky inside.

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Paella - you need to be careful in Spain, because many places sell paella that is purchased frozen from a supplier, and simply reheated. But this place produced some pretty decent stuff. The chunks of chicken and pork were nicely seasoned and weren't too dry, and most importantly, the rice wasn't hard and gross like it can be. There have been times I've had paella in Spain where I've wondered if they had just spray painted uncooked grains so they would look like they had been cooked with saffron.
It was actually nicely cooked, soft and moist, though a few grains were a tad undercooked inside. It was almost Asian-quality rice, which is a huge compliment, because if there is anything Asians know how to do, it is make damn good rice! Overall it was a good paella, despite being a tad salty and having a distinct lack of veggies, with the exception of a tiny shard of bell pepper - but hey, it is Spain, after all!

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Carrilleras de Iberico - I wondered if they had given me the wrong dish, since it tasted more like beef than pork. The pork was quite tender (possibly braised), and other than being too salty, it was lacking in flavour - I've mentioned this so many times before, but it just seems like Spanish people don't really care about food. They have access to great ingredients, but it just doesn't seem to result in something that is as good as it should be. And the fries? Terrible! How could you screw those up? At times, Spain makes me not care about food, which is probably a good mentality to have while traveling through here, since a really good meal is difficult to come by.

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L'il Buddha says "Given the dearth of fruits and vegetables in the Spanish diet, you must seek them out whenever possible, otherwise the Buddhist in Spain will experience more constipation than meditation."

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Weird - just outside of the Santander train station, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, there is an automated milk machine. I don't get it ...

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Not the most charming or cozy place, but Hostal San Glorio was comfy enough for the night.