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Cizur Minor to Eunate - Alto del Perdon, 'can you see which one is not like the others?'.Updated notes:
Cizur Minor to EUNATE - 20.5km (Total 111.9km) Day 7
The next day we walked to EUNATE the highlight of my trip so far.
The steep elevation and strong winds while reaching the Alto de Perdon Hill was quite challenging. A very enjoyable trail with plenty of green trees, wheat fields, birds singing, colourful flowers and the warm sun apon our backs. Admiring wild orchids and reaching the summit (790mt), we were greeted by the Permanent metal medieval art pilgrims and were delighted to be amongst them and amoungst the hundreds of giant wind mills.
We played the game of “one of these things is not like the others” while trying to hold on against the strong winds that were threatening to toss us back down the hill. A last look behind yields us with a view of Pamplona and the distant Pyrenees.
A detour via Eunate brought us face to face with the beautiful 12th century Romanesque Church of Santa Maria de Eunate. It has an unusual octagonal form and free standing outer porch with pillars surrounding the church, its shape is based on the same shape as the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem and has been linked
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Cizur Minor to Eunate - Wheat to the Knights Templar who defended the pilgrims along the route to Santiago. The inner church is quaint, extremely peaceful and gives one a strong but tranquil feeling just sitting inside. The small building standing next to the solitary church in the vast but empty countryside turned out to have a quiet French older man cleaning the interior and saying (in Spanish)to a young Canadian couple they were too early. The young couple spoke in English saying they wanted to make a reservation.
Once there the feeling of wanting to stay was overwhelmingly strong so I spoke in Spanish and helped the old French man with the translation. It was obvious that one could stay. As it turned out there were seven mattresses spaces available with dinner at 7pm and breakfast after 6am, all included for a donation. My heels were sore and I needed a good rest anyway.
The hospitalero Yves comes from France for 3 weeks every year to let his friend have a holiday. As it turned out this may be the last time it will open for pilgrims as the older hospitalero will not return due to his elderly mother being ill.
Yves provided us with
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Cizur Minor to Eunate - Our detour from main route via Eunate brought us face to face with the beautiful 12th century Romanesque Church of Santa Maria de Eunate. It has an unusual octagonal form and free standing outer porch with pillars surrounding the church, has been linked to the Knights Templar who defended the pilgrims along the route to Santiago. lunch, including pate, made by his wife, soup and desert.
That afternoon after a small rest, we visited the “green trail’, a trail prepared by old hospitalero over many years of many local plants, all with their own name and photo or drawing of its origins. There were beautiful butterflies and late spring flower blooms. While walking this green trail, I met Maia Pureza, a local from the next town of Obanos. She and some others come regularly to tend the albergue, the church and the environment in order to continue the pilgrim spirit for the local parish community.
For dinner, we had; puree (??left over’s from lunch??) with croutons, potatoes with sausage, greens salad, rice milk pudding, bread, wine and by then an exploding stomach.
The magic moment came at 8pm when we were all invited to the church for a private time with no other visitors. Yves sang, gave us blessings, readings and were encouraged to each hold on to the lit candle and have a private moment. Some said a prayer, one sang a beautiful song, one made statements, one gave thanks and some just held the candle for a private moment such as myself (gave thanks
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Cizur Menor - dawn for the glorious day, the beauty of each day - there were peaceful, calming and warm glowing feelings as while staring at the candle light and listening to the still air, flashes of my dead dear father kept coming to view - it felt like he was following me during my pilgrimage and guiding me safely on my special journey). Then we watched the sunset before retiring with a hot drink and more nibbly food.
Written on 31 of may from Spain
I am walking quite well and have done almost a quarter of the Camino. I will take it easy every few days to rest my leg and heel (the most painful). No blisters so far........ The towns are beautiful and so very old, it almost feels like you are back in those times, if people were wearing the relevant clothes.
It was sad to leave the lone Eunate Albergue, Yves was so hospitable and warm hearted it was evident he has a very caring heart and loves what he does.
We walked to Puente la Reina with its beatufull bridge
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Cizur Minor - looking westwards towards Alto de Perdon - out trail way and beyond for the day. and entrace arch. The views were beatifull with so many wildflowers and butterflyes all in abandance. In Irache we tasted wine from the free wine fountain to give us strength in order to reach Santiago. I have so many photos and it is sad that it is difficult to send them at present.
Yesterday I watched a real, but small scale running of the bulls in the town of Los Arcos - we were invited by a local lady to watch from her balcony and garage door which has metal bars for safety. It was a very special experience and were lucky to have arrived on the only day that the festival was held. The next festival will be in August and will run for a whole 8 weeks - were the locals all wear white and red sashes, and the evenings are all full of festive activities. The day before we stayed in Irache just past the l town of Estella with magnificent cathedrals and ancient buildings and churches. The sculptures are very beatifull and even more so the interiors of the churches with beatifull ceilings.
I will only walk about 10km tomorrow to give my leg a little
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Cizur Minor to Eunate - Looking back towards Pamplona rest.
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