Motorhome News from Europe 14

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Motorhome News from Europe 14.

Spain January 2005

Alicante - Mallorca - Palmanova - Palma - Valdemossa - Ebro Delta
Valencia & Snow on the beaches in Palmanova, Mallorca


This week has been much warmer, with constant sunshine and daytime temperatures of up to 24C. Night times became warmer north of Alicante, contrary to everyone’s predictions that we were heading in the wrong direction and it would be colder further north. The coast south of Valencia yielded loads of excellent birding, with rocky headlands, marshes and flooded rice fields. Significant new species for the list this trip included Red breasted Flycatcher, Tree Sparrow and Water Pipit.

Campsites were beginning to empty again. After the bustling coastal sites in the south, this was quite surprising. Perhaps it’s because they’re also quite expensive near Valencia, as with most cities. The site we settled on was full of permanent caravans owned by the Spanish for the summer but deserted now. There were just 2 touring motorhomes and one tent occupied. So very peaceful.



We bussed into Valencia (Spain’s 3rd largest city), the home of paella, past empty rice fields stretching for miles to the south of the city. Previously knowing little about Valencia, we were pleasantly surprised to find a vibrant and friendly place full of interesting places to visit.

Our day began by popping into a travel agent to enquire about ferry prices to Mallorca, planning to take the motorhome to the island. It did not take long for us to change our minds and opt for a January bargain 'package holiday' to Palmanova, with flights and hotel included, for less than the price of the ferry! It was totally contrary to our normal choice, but too good a deal to miss. Two days later we would leave Smiley, our motorhome, in Valencia, fly to Palma and hire a car to see the picturesque parts of the island many of our friends had told us about. The flight would take 35 minutes as opposed to 9 hours by sea. It made sense. More of that later….............


The Central Market in Valencia was fabulous. One of the best food markets we had ever been to: local oranges, hams, huge cheeses, sausages, spices, shellfish, fish, meat, bread, dried pulses, olives - all looked really appetising. The only stall not so appealing was the offal stall, selling sheep’s heads, pigs’ trotters, tripe and all those other unmentionable innards we’d rather not think about, let alone eat. We didn’t fancy the snails much, either. You can learn a lot about people by the food they eat, David might say, but I’m not sure what this says about the Spanish. I do know we had the best paella we’ve tasted so far in Spain here in Valencia.



Our wanderings in Valencia took us to the somewhat unremarkable cathedral, some exceptional churches (Sta Catalina; serene, clam, simple and beautiful, and Nuestra Senora - hectic and busy, a communion service in full flow), the Fine Arts Museum, and the stunning new Arts and Science complex built along the old river valley to celebrate the millennium, (eat your heart out, Tony Blair; the best we could manage was London's notorious failure, 'The Dome'😉 but our minds were really on other things; a holiday in Mallorca for starters.


A budget week in Mallorca

We negotiated a deal with the campsite to leave Smiley for a week in the care of Todd and Ron, our cuddly toys, while we flew off to sunny Mallorca, just 35 minutes away. This would not be our choice for a holiday in mid-summer, but it was lovely in January, with few tourists about. Our modest hotel was fine, overlooking a sandy bay, with cheerful staff, eat all you can stuff in your mouth and a comfortable room. Many hotels, bars and restaurants were shut with ‘closed for holidays’ signs on the door. We were struck by how English everything appeared in Palmanova; fish and chips, hairdressers, and English is all-but the local language (except for our Travelplan tour, rep!). We acquired a little rental car called Grinny (it was green) next day that coped admirably with the numerous hairy mountain roads. Our first 3 days of ‘Sunflower Guide car tours’ were mild and sunny and took us to the west and north of the island, with splendid scenery, charming villages with narrow cobbled alleys and pot plants in profusion outside the doorways, all amidst a tranquil turquoise sea. Spring was just around the corner and the almond trees were beginning to blossom.


Palma’s Cathedral could be considered outstanding, whether or not you are a cathedral buff. Its narrow pillars and high roof enhance the beautiful art treasures (including works by Gaudi) hidden inside, its stained glass and sense of space. If you are a lover of art, you would also adore the compelling colourful work of Miro, ‘mystifying yet somehow compelling’ as Janice describes it, on display at the Miro Foundation. His studio, filled with unfinished canvasses and artist’s paraphernalia, was both delightful and thought provoking. We first admired Miro’s work on our previous visit to Barcelona some years ago.

Out of the blue a drift of Arctic air arrived, bringing snow to the island. We had had three lovely warm days and then, suddenly, ‘pow!’ temperatures plummeted as forecast in the local papers, bringing freezing gales from the north pounding huge breakers against the cliffs, tossing great waves across the promenade and into shore-side cafes. At first there was no snow, just heavy cloud, so we drove on into the hills as is normal for such hardy travelers and even found brief moments of sun. Overnight the windows rattled but the next morning there was snow on the mountains and a light covering on the beaches - and the Mallorcans went slightly crazy, many of them seldom having seen snow before. Some mountain roads were closed and locals were seen leaving their cars to collect snow in cardboard boxes to take home to show the children! ‘Look, kids, sno.... water!’

With only a week to fill our minds with all things Mallorcan, we continued as normal, passing snow dusted beaches on our way to the hills to visit our second monastery, and the palace at Valdemossa. Chopin stayed at the monastery in 1838 and composed some of his music there in those tranquil surroundings. Signs suggested that piano concerts were available ‘on request’ or at specific times throughout the day. We thought it unlikely that day - we were the only visitors brave enough to venture into the hills, but, on request, we were treated to our own private rendering of some of Chopin’s finest works; just us, in a concert room for 100 or more! Adorable, and so memorable.




It snowed heavily everywhere on the island again the following day, and as we drove through Palma in the morning, and again in the evening, there was a total white out. But in between we had sunshine, though very cold temperatures. We were unsure what the weather was doing elsewhere in Europe, but hoped to get a paper before we returned to Smiley in Valencia the following day. We would have to see what the weather would throw at us as we continued north. That little holiday in Majorca provided a good break for us - like a sunny Mediterranean holiday with Santa!

Back on mainland Spain the weather was sunny though rather chilly, with no snow as yet. Smiley, Todd and Ron were pleased to see us again, having had a most boring and uneventful time without us.
We leave you, in the Ebro Delta, between Valencia and Barcelona - back to bird-watching again, over extensive coastal marshes and flooded rice fields. There were thousands of Herons and Egrets there, not to mention hundreds of lovely Greater pink Flamingos. Today’s excitement was seeing Squacco Herons for the first time. They were very patient and close enough for us to photograph.

More of our travels, north and eastwards into France, next week.




David and Janice
The Grey Haired Nomads

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Photos

Valencia A celebration of the Millennium
The most magnificent architecture. Eat your heart out Mr Blair!

Valencia
in the Central Market! (Ole?)

Cathedral
..with wonderful Gaudi embelishment

Mallorca (or Majorca)
Lunch in the bar

Mallorca
Miro's home - a celebration of his work

Mallorca
Copy of a Miro you might recognise

Mallorca
yes, it snowed!

Monastry at Valdemossa
Chopin stayed here - and we enjoyed a stunning personal concert!