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Published: September 15th 2010
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The past three days have been perfect. We did two things that I had hoped to do but wasn’t sure we would. On Monday we drove to Capileira and did a hike that took us up the gorge towards the high sierras. It was about a 10 km hike with lots of ups and downs. We could hear the rushing river the entire time. We passed many abandoned farms, and others that were so far out in the middle of nowhere they seemed to be abandoned, but the land was clearly being cultivated. We saw numerous old stone threshing circles and stone terraces. We passed springs and crossed streams. The views up and down the valley were stunning and when we came back around towards Capileira and glimpsed the village down below us we sat and took it in for a few minutes. I sat there and felt happy- truly, deeply, content. I have seen photos of this view many times and it was 100% satisfying to be there.
Back in the village we had lunch - Sam had a bocadillo of cheese and jamon and I had a Spanish tortilla- eggs and potato and pepper. The hike was tiring
so we went back to our room, showered and read and napped. I did some laundry and hung it out to dry - which only takes a few minutes here.
For dinner we went back to Jean Claude’s. He is so much more welcoming the second night. We enjoyed an Indian-spiced flaky pastry delight and then I had lasagna and Sam had a couscous dish. We each had dessert - an orange pudding for me and rice pudding for Sam. We visited with Jean Claude about American politics. He said that he has seen the “Tea Party” folks on television and he said they seem crazy. He said that he watches and wonders if they are from outer space. We assured him that we have the same question. Jean Claude hugged and kissed me before we left. Earning his approval is an accomplishment!
Yesterday we drove to Trevelez, the highest village in Spain and we wandered the village. We bought bread and a chocolate croissant at a bakery, stopped for café at a bar, and then decided to walk to the river. I had worn a skirt and we both had on sandals, but it was a short
hike. The path was very dusty and in places quite muddy, but we managed. When we reached the Trevelez River we soaked our feet in the cold water and shared the croissant, wishing we had bought two! On our way down to the river and again on the way back up we passed a father and son with three horses and 2 dogs. Bucket-type devices were slung across the horses and they were loading those up with gravel in the village and then taking it back to their farm. It looked like hard, slow work.
The views down the valley from Trevelez are dramatic. I am so pleased we went there - last time we were nervous about the driving but thankfully we did not encounter any tour buses on our coming or going. (The busses do not slow down or move over, and that makes for some hair raising moments on the many switchbacks.)
Today is our last full day in Ferreirola. We decided to take the hike that had been our first hike two years ago, but we did it in reverse. This makes six days in a row of hiking - we talked about taking
a day off, but there are too many wonderful hiking options here. We climbed down to the river, up the other side of the mountain, across the top for a bit, back down to the river and back up to Busquistar and finally back down to Ferreirola. It was a longer hike than I had remembered and today has been quite warm. The second river crossing is over an ancient bridge that seems to have survived the winter rains without consequence. We went down to the river under the bridge and I soaked my feet in the cold water. I love these moments and am pleased to be able to stop and recognize them as they happen.
Back in Busquistar we returned to Bar Paco and enjoyed gazpacho, jamon and cheese, and bread and olives. It was delicious and exactly what we needed to give us strength for the 45 minute hike back to Ferreirola. About 2:00 the place starts to fill up with local men - some coming from work, others just old guys who probably gather there each day - we seemed to have taken the table where a foursome must sit each day, but they adjusted
and sat at the table closest to us.
I don’t know if we will ever be here again. We are so fortunate to have come here a second time but it really is not on the way to anywhere else - nevertheless, I hope the future surprises us. One thing I am certain of; if we are able to return things will no doubt be as they are now - I imagine that very little has changed here in decades. This time we had the pleasure of the proprietors being the same, the chefs were the same, the waitress at the little bar in town was the same - how often do we have wonderful memories of a place but when we return to reclaim those memories, it just isn’t as we remembered? This time we have been blessed to have the second visit be as satisfying as the many memories we had.
Tomorrow we drive to Aguilas on the coast and then two days later to the Costa Blanca. We will have dinner tomorrow with friends we met while staying near Girona on our first trip to Spain. Rob and Donna are British, but they own two
homes near Aguilas, and have been there for several weeks preparing for and then enjoying, their daughter’s wedding. We have stayed in touch these past two years and look forward to seeing them again.
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