Costa de la Luz

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Travel blog 13

Saturday 19th went out for a meal in the evening in El Rocio. 6 of us sat around a table against a mirror, which made us into a table of 12, so we enjoyed a Last Supper - last time we would all be together indefinitely. Sunday morning went back into El Rocio to see the parades by the brotherhoods, interspersed with the letting off of rockets. No health and safety here just 4 ft rockets fired from the hand in the middle of the crowds. This time followed a brotherhood into the church and listened to the very noisy service. The temperature last few days extremely hot, reaching 27 C. Late afternoon enjoyed a BBQ. Vultures had left the Costa's for the weekend and had perched in the trees in the surrounding park!

Monday, 21st January
The 6 of us said our goodbyes and headed off in different directions. Us north to Seville. We had led a fairly sheltered life driving the camper van around Portugal so it was a shock when we hit Saville. Had forgotten what driving in a city was like! Kept saying to Andy, "Watch out, there is a car on the inside - No, he has cut us up and is now in front!" Spanish drivers must be the worst! Found a campsite 12 miles from Saville and set up again. Such different surroundings; from the sandy pitch with bare trees of El Rocio to a grassy spot under an orange tree. After a quick lunch walked into the town of Dos Hermanas which is slightly South East of Saville on the N1, a fairly industrial town. Bought some nice prawns for tea. Near a busy road but the noise did not keep us awake.

Tuesday, 22nd January
Exciting day as heading off to Saville. Had visited once before and loved it, so was excited but a bit concerned as a lady nearby had told us that she had found it dusty and dirty.However, I was not disappointed and had the most fantastic day. Find Saville (or Savilla as called here) the most romantic and picturesque city, with restored buildings,upmarket residences, historic plazas, whitewashed streets and flower decked patio's - where old and new combine in harmony. The state of the art tram running alongside horse and carriage. Started the day with a coffee and then a tour of the bullring, the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza which was built between 1761-1881. Am really anti bull-fighting, but this is said to be the most magnificent ring in Spain. It holds 14,000 spectators and the fights start in April, for which tickets are already sold out. Each fight takes one hour and there are usually 3 fights in a session. At the ring there is a museum explaining the history and the poor bulls who put up a really good fight have been stuffed and put on the walls (and also photos of their proud mothers!). There is a chapel where fighters pray before a fight. Only one matador has died at this ring. It was an interesting visit, but there is no way I could attend a fight and even found the guide's talk a bit distressing. I am afraid it is something I cannot understand anyone wanting to go too, but each to our own.

From here headed off to the Cathedral. Andy not so keen to go in and so I went alone. The Cathedral itself is massive and occupies the site of a great mosque built in the 12C. Work on the Christian cathedral, the largest in Europe, began in 1401 and took over a century to complete. There were many works of art inside, but that aside the building did not do it for me. It felt unwelcoming, cold and austere. The saving grace was being able to climb up the bell tower (boy, am I not fit!) to see the absolutely stunning views over the city. I just love the moorish influence of the architecture of the city and feel at one when I see it mix well with nature. On the way down from the tower I met a young blind man, being led down by a guide, asking questions like - what could be seen, what colour was the tower, what was the sky like today? Felt very humble and in the right place to say a prayer of thankfulness.

Stopped off for a cheapie lunch in a chinese before entering the Real Alcazar, a palace that has been the home of Spanish kings for 7 Centuries and which is still used by the royal family today. Took the real tourist option and paid for a headphone as the buildings held so much history which we wanted to grasp. Too much to go into but suffice to say the palaces are made up of complex plasterwork and extremely ornate archways and the most beautiful azulejos. The photos attached will give you a taste. A visit if you fancy Sevilla, is a must, but do allow several hours. The lush gardens themselves deserve an hour.

Outside the palace there was a film crew filming a new car. The rather dashing Spanish actor had to keep driving it around a tiny corner and we gathered they wanted him to drive faster. To us it was rather unusual that he was not doing 70 around the tiny streets!

After sitting in one of the squares and taking in the ambience of the early evening bustle of Savilla (and without seeing a shop apart from a souvenir one) headed back for the bus where the kindly Spanish driver, dropped us right outside the campsite entrance - all for 1.25 euro, for 30 minute journey.

Wednesday, 23rd off we head back south down the N4 and then across country to Arcos de la Frontera. A wonderful drive along quiet roads in rolling green hills, reminding us of England in Summer. Such a change from the flat, strawberry growing fields near El Rocio. Dora the explorer was back in fine form and we were soon in the labyrinthine old historic town, with wing mirrors catching traffic lights, each side and me gripping the arms of my chair and breathing in, as if it would help! Eventually came across some waste land, so parked the van and headed up into the town.

Instead of settling on Andalusia's plains where the folk would have falled prey to bandits some Andalusians chose to live in fortified hilltop towns and villages known as pueblos blancos (white towns) because they are whitewashed in moorish tradition.Today they are working towns with great historical interest. We climbed, almost vertically, to the top of the town to the Church, which was sadly closed for repair. The tourist office was housed in the tiny hilltop square and also one of the Parador hotels, although goodness knows how you would be able to drive to it. The Paradors are Government run hotels classified from 3-5 stars, which are located close together so that there is never more than a day's drive to the next one. This one looked fabulous with the most amazing views but the roads were the tiniest we had come across, and busiest mostly with hundreds of mopeds and scooters buzzing around every corner. Quite annoying in the end - although I think we hit 'back to school time'. We were aware that a lot of money was being spent on the town - new swimming and sports complex, bullring, new hotels and a 3rd secondary school, most surprising for such a small town. Really loved Arcos and would return.

From the highest point in the town the surrounding views were spectacular and we saw a big lake, north of the town so decided to head out that way to see if we could find a spot to park. Whilst crossing bridge saw a motorhome behind us but kept driving around the lake until we found a place and then realised that our Dutch friends, Geesje and Koos were the travellers behind us. Such a wonderful surprise. There was a hotel on the lake so called in for a drink and sat overlooking the lake and the hilltop of Arcos. The hotel had a restaurant so we asked if we could have a meal and park our vans in their carpark for the night. They agreed this would be fine. It would have been fine if the meal had not been so awful! We all ordered fish casserole but did not expect the fish to be battered before entering the casserole! It was dire, so think we well and truly paid for the free nights camping. Despite the food though, we had a really good evening as we always do with this lovely couple, who we will keep in touch with.

Thursday, 24th
The men decided on a fishing session on the lake this morning, so the alarm was set! We had smuggled potatoes from last night's casserole to use as bait, but even the fish did not fancy them, so we parted company once again, fishless!

Our plan was to head to El Puerto de Santa Maria. Drove through it to the campsite on the beach, but did not like look of campsite so parked up on the quayside and explored on foot. Came across a ferry about to set sail for Cadiz, so grabbed the moment and hopped on the boat. It was a 30 minute trip and we arrived about lunchtime. Cadiz juts out on the bay of Bay of Cadiz and lays claim to being Europe's oldest city which legend names Hercules as its founder. In its time it has been occupied by the Carthaginians, Romans and Moors and still seems an eclectic mix in terms of buildings and people - men with men, men dressed as women, women kissing women, the well to do and the ne'er so well to do. Quite a bizarre experience wandering around the gardens, the waterfront, the open squares and the old town. If I am honest I did not really feel comfortable. Still struggling with sore throat and chesty cough, which may have contributed to feelings. We hopped back on the boat and were soon back in van and off again, as we decided against staying in Santa Maria. Instead set off for Puerto Real, a smaller town right on the coast. However, some plans do not work out and despite driving along the coastal road of the town we could find nowhere to stop. I have to add that campsites here are few and far between. However, luck was with us and by chance we saw signs to an inland town called Medina Sidionia which we decided to follow. Before we arrived there we saw a brown sign to Lagoona Medina and entered the car park for the natural park where we decided to stay the night. After a cup of tea, headed down to the lake and sat in the bird hide watching the wildlife heading home. Had a very quiet night despite being very close to motorway.

Friday, 25th
Up early today to get to the hide. Had the most fantastic experience when a flock of greater flamingoes flew right past me. Sadly had no camera, but the memory will last forever. Actually could have stayed here all day as there was lots of birds about, including two marsh harriers hovering overhead. However, Jerez was calling! All these names ending with z - resulting in 'th' sound and now Jerez with the J being pronounced like the 'ch' in loch. We sound as though we have developed bad lisps.

Good old Andy expertly drove through the busy centre of Jerez without a care (did not like to say I had shut my eyes). Stopped at tourist info and asked about parking the campervan and were directed to a free car park 15 minutes from town centre. Strange that from not being comfortable in Cadiz, really liked Jerez. (Please bear in mind this is very subjective view). It was market day and very buzzy and busy. The fruit and vegetables on sale at the market were mouthwatering with strawberries the size of plums. Jerez being the capital of 'sherry' called for a visit to a sherry bodegas - so chose Gonzalez Byass, for a tour of the factory and to witness the process. The rich and the famous have in the past visited here and there were barrels signed by Prince Phillip and Margaret Thatcher, who said the sherry was the best; surely she must be right? Gonzalez is the 5th generation and it is a big family business who 8 years ago bought up Croft Original, but the main product is the Tio Pepe, a pale, very dry sherry. I really liked this, served cold, with ice. Andy did not like it, or the Croft. Hence I drank all the free samples, including his and staggered out, after purchasing a bottle of their brandy, which at 10 euros a litre was an excellent buy. A gimmic here was to take us into a wine cellar where mice were running about and a glass of sherry had been left on the floor for the mice, with a ladder for them to climb up to take a sip. No wonder they were scurrying about unaware of us!

Enjoyed our walk back to the van, taking in the sights and sounds. The museum here houses the largest collection of clocks in Europe, but unfortunately it was closed for siesta. Jerez is also famous for its equestrian school and apparently there are public dressage displays on a Thursday. We thought Jerez worth a second visit, but as we are both now struggling with the 'campisimo cough', had had enough and just wanted to relax with a cup of tea.
So about 5 p.m. headed off to find the campsite Roselada in a place called Conil de la Frontera on the N340 by the coast where we had planned to stay weekend.

Arrived about 6, had showers, washed hair and settled down with a cuppa and then spent night coughing in stereo.

Saturday, 26th
After a sleepless night, we both felt lethargic, so had a lazy day, clearing the van and changing bedding etc as sunny and windy - good drying weather. Site is fairly large with lots of snowbirds settled here in their little encampments for the winter. Never feel this is me - but I cannot blame these people sitting here in the sun, rather than facing the cold and big fuel bills in the UK. Facilities are excellent albeit a bit expensive, 20 euros a night. Unfortunately the euro is not good against the pound at the moment making a big difference to our monthly budget. However, there is free wi-fi, which we plan to take advantage of. On the site are some nice new chalets to rent and in my view it would be a good base to tour Andulsia - Sevilla, Arcos, Jerez, Cadiz, Gibralter, all within easy distance and Conil itself is a nice little town. Site has a good pool and restaurant and as it is situated on a steep hill, the top pitches and chalets overlook the sea and miles of surrounding countryside.

As a point of note, its not all roses here for the Spanish. The headline in today's paper is "Purses hit hard as basics rise in price". The article tells of milk going up 25% making it more expensive than petrol, bread increasing by 13% and chicken by 14%. The number of people out of work in this region has reached its highest level for 5 years.

Sunday, 27th
Still coughing like crazy, so staying put today. Weather warm but windy. I went to a nice little church service in the camp restaurant this morning, other than that it will be roast chicken later, and not much more.

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Photos

Pub at El Rocio
Not sure how drink/driving rules apply here?

El Rocio
Brotherhood of Man (and women)

El Rocio church
Altar in church

El Rocio Vultures
Vultures have left Costa's for the winter

Arcos de la Frontera
Church at Arcos

Arcos
Pue blo Blanco

View from Arcos
View of lake

Sevilla
Bullring at Sevilla

Sevilla
View of Cathedral

Sevilla
Streets of Seville - No Barber's, Andy glad as decided not to have shave!

Sevilla
Old and new in perfect harmony

Seville
Palace Real Alcazar

Sevilla
Inside Palace

Win a New Car
But which one - Answers on a postcard please. Closing date 27.1.08, 1.p.m.

Jerez
Cathedral and Tio Pepe (named after Uncle Theo!)

Jerez
Roundabout at Jerez!