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Published: January 18th 2007
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Old Town
As seen from St.Michael's Gate tower. Nice. As you all know it is actually Bratislava. However, lots of people don't know a great deal about the capital of Slovakia. Once you've realised it's a different country from Slovenia then you're well on the way.
One person who didn't know (and who really should have known) was a flight attendant on the outward Easyjet flight. After explaining what to do in the event the plane landed on water (erm...) we were informed of the weather conditions and flight time to...'Bratislavia'. This is probably where it all goes wrong and adds to the various opinions that Slovakia is in Russia etc instead of being a mere 2.5 hour flight from the UK.
A certain well known guide book states, and I quote, 'it's difficult to get excited about Bratislava'. A suggested stay is recommended of 2 or 3 days. I stayed 3 years. Not because I was confused by the guide book's advice but because I was working there. Did I get excited about Bratislava? Well - yes and no. There is an advantage to living in Bratislava....you can be in another country in ten minutes. Austria to be precise. In fact 3 other capital cities can be
Old Town View
View from St.Michael's tower reached by train from Bratislava very easily. Vienna in 1.5 hours, Budapest in 2.5 hours and Prague in around 4 hours. This makes Bratislava an excellent base for which to travel from. Indeed, the delights of Croatia are a quick 2 hour flight away.
Anyway. What of Bratislava and Slovakia itself? It may be better to talk about Bratislava and Slovakia as two different places. The reason for this being that the capital city has gone through much more change than the rest of the country. Indeed, perhaps the most significant changes have happened within the last 30 years or so. Whilst their history as a nation stretches back many hundreds of years, modern Slovakia celebrated their Independence on the 1st January 1993,now known as 'The Velvet Divorce'. A mere hiccup ago. The Czechs have moved on and the Slovaks are still moving on. Check out this site for a more detailed view of the history of the country (http://www.slovakia.org/history.htm).
Some of the most major changes to Bratislava itself affected the Old Town area. The Old Town remains a centre of activity and still retains a lot of charm and fine older buildings. For the time being. Regrettably,
Old town
As the title... the Jewish Quarter was lost to make way for the Nove Mesto (new bridge) which supports probably the most famous landmark of the city - the UFO tower. Well, it looks like a UFO might look if they actually existed. It reminds me more of something out of War of the Worlds...a UFO then. Whatever it looks like, it's a must to travel up one of the metallic legs to the viewing platform which affords an impressive view. If you feel like splashing out - go for dinner in the restaurant which offers a rather expensive and eclectic menu - but an original venue. The toilets are also worth a visit. You'll see why.
Looking across the Danube you can't fail to spot Bratislava Castle. Though there was evidence of some kind of settlement on the site dating back to the Bronze Age, the current structure was completed this century in the late 60's after standing in ruins. From its grounds you look across the Danube, past the UFO, to a view of the area that houses thousands of Slovak residents. Petrazalka, once a small village, hails from Slovakia's communist era and consists of mainly pre-fab high rise blocks.
Thank you please.
This notice in a lift speaks for itself really. Looks a bit grim really. You're better off climbing the larger of the castle's turrets and taking in a sunset that disappears into Austrian hills.
After dark, the Old Town is a good venue for bars and restaurants. In summer, it's difficult to get a table outside to enjoy the warm evenings. Popular with neighbours from bordering Austria and coach loads of foreign tourists, a growing number of revellers come from a well known British export - the Stag Party! With cheap flights, beer and beautiful women, it was inevitable that the city would attract such visitors. Oddly out of place in a cafe culture where groups of seated drinkers chat amiably together, packs of white-shirted shiny shoed lads, pour gallons of ale into themselves whilst fawning over the ever patient (if ever so slightly bored) Slovak waitresses. In my first few months there I did think it was quite amusing to see all the lads wandering around all dressed with identical T-shirts with KNOB or something written on the back. Sadly, their charm fades when witnessing the often rude and aggressive behaviour that comes of turning oneself into a pickled twat. Somehow the sight of seeing a hammered
Alien Invasion!
The slightly futuristic UFO tower. Brit, dressed as a woman, swimming down a fountain in the main square does not fill me with national pride. The dozen machine-gunning guards outside the American embassy were also not to pleased to pull the sodden figure out. Avoid the Irish bar on busy weekends if at all possible. Instead, hunt out the not so obvious bars and be rewarded by paying half the price for a pint that other bars two hundred yards away are charging.
A quick note about one of the pics. This was a sign, now gone I'm afraid, from a lift in the apartment block of a friend of mine. Unfortunately, one of her guests took the advice literally and slammed the lift door 'as powerfully as she knew'. The irony was lost on the Slovak residents who couldn't believe their advice had all been in vain.
There’s a lot more to Bratislava and Slovakia which I aim to write about at some point. Meanwhile, go there, take Bill Bryson’s car. The drivers are awful.
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Cessna152
Jason Smart
I agree. Bratislava is a really good destination to go for. I really enoyed my visit there last July. I can't believe more people are not going there.