The Simple Life...in Valjevo

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After a week in the scorching heat of the “city” of Novi Sad, it was time to head to the country. Azbukum organized a little retreat to the “selo”, which is the Serbian word for village. We headed south to the little town of Valjevo, which was the seat of rebellion during the waning years of the Ottoman Empire.

I have noticed before (in Russia) that people in the urban Slavic cities transform when they go to the country. They become utterly relaxed and cheerful, as if the most natural thing in the world is to pick berries all afternoon or tend the sheep. Things are no different in Serbia. This is why I say that in every Slav there is the heart of a peasant.

Now, Novi Sad is a far cry from an “urban center” in the American sense of the word, but it is the second largest city in Serbia and has a nightlife, with bars, clubs, restaurants, festivals, etc. Our trip to a farm near Valjevo was a break from all civilization, big or small. Farm animals surrounded us on all sides, including piglets, cows, sheep and several roosters that crowed all day long. There were simple yet sumptuous meals, plenty of beer, and long talks about anything and everything over cigarettes and brandy. Nighttime entertainment included looking at the stars.

After a day of being waiting on hand and foot, we had to try to help out around the farm. We learned, though, just how useless we city slickers are out in the country. Herding sheep is harder than it looks, as is making cabbage rolls. We were most useful at entertaining the kids with our digital cameras, fancy phones, and soccer pick-up games.

We stayed with a young couple and their two children, Natasa and Slavko, who were incredibly smart and well behaved. A young couple working the farm, however, is becoming more rare in Serbia these days. Like countries everywhere, Serbia is experiencing an urbanization of its populace and the farms and villages are dying out. Although it is a beautiful life, it is also a hard one. The mother, Yelena, told me that she works 7 days a week, all year. There is no vacation, because who would look after the farm while they were away?

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Photos

Natasa and a Neighbor
This sweet old baka (grandmother) lived next to the farm.

Death Announcements
...on the wall outside the ice cream store.

Our Hostess
This is same bag our hostess, Yelena, used to carry to school as a bookbag.

Slavko
the Mischievous.

Comments

[Joelyn]

Cabbage rolls.....yeah......don't miss eating them......Your story makes me want to throw on my Babushka and party down...Ah how I miss seeing my babushka in her babushka!

[Anna]

Hi Jackie, Great blog. Awesome photos! Hope you're doing well. I'm in Prague. It's raining. We're sick of the crowds already, so we're heading to Berlin a day early. -- Anna