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Published: October 3rd 2007
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So, over the last few days we have struck out into the country rather than just seeing it from the trains. Our first day in Krasnoyarsk was grey, wet and cold & I (S) started a cold so we didn't achieve much except for the Regional Museum which had some interesting exhibits about different tribal groups in Siberia.
Luckily we had a clear blue sky the next day and went out with a guide to the Stolby Nature Reserve, a few miles outside the city. This is a range of tree covered hills that have a number of large rocks created by forcing of volcanic lava out of the ground where it has solidified many thousands (millions?) of years ago. It was quite a hike up to where the rocks were and we came across the first snow for this year so it was quite cold. Anatoliy is a University lecturer for his other job and was very knowledgable. He scared us with stories of a bear which had been seen in the area over the last few weeks.
We climbed up a number of the rocks, which must be 30m high, and give spectacular views over the surrounding
area, a carpet of green and golden trees at this time of year. Many of them have names supposedly arising from their shapes but we struggled to see some of the them. We had picnic lunch on one of them just admiring the view. Despite my cold this was one of my favourite days so far (& despite the bruises I ended up with from the climbing!) and it was so lovely to get out of the cities, most of which are rather busy and polluted.
Another late train that night and of course, I should never have opened my mouth about the trains being on time! Actually it was only half an hour late but that meant it ws 2am when we left and I was desperate to get to bed. However, our cabin companions were having none of this. Georgi and Vasili had been at a party to celebrate 75 years of their factory and had been eating and drinking all day. They of course wanted to continue and wanted us to join in. Vasili spoke some English so we had laboured conversations while they tried to get us to have some cognac. We had a small
shot but they drank most of a bottle before we persuaded them, at around 4am, that we needed some sleep.
This produced the new Russian snoring champion in Georgi but luckily I was so tired by then that somehow I slept through it.
Around 10am the next morning they started again - finished the cognac and then onto beer, with very little food. They were lovely men though and told us all about their jobs and their families. Georgi in particular couldn't believe that we were travelling all that way without speaking any Russian. Vasili had children who had all travelled. One of them had sailed on lake Baikal and he insisted that we speak to her on the phone to ask some questions about it.
When we finally got into Irkutsk around 9pm, Vasili was being collected by his wife who insisted on giving us a lift to our hotel which was lovely of her. Before we got off the train they had tried to give us presents but we had managed to reduce them to just a pen each by explaining that we could not carry everything. The people here really are very generous.
Only a brief night in Irkutsk then we caught the bus to Olkhon Island on Lake Baikal, about 5 hours away, including a short ferry ride. This lake holds a number of records which is my next competition - what are they.....?
We stayed in the only settlement of any size called Khuzir which has a population of around 1,500 and was only connected to mains electricity in 2005. We had our own small log cabin which was a short walk from the beach and it was surprisingly warm and very sunny. The water is incredibly clear (& cold!) and the mountains on the mainland were topped with snow so it was all quite stunning.
Meals were provided at the place we stayed - they know over 30 different ways with omul, a kind of fish found only in the lake. Washing is in a banya - a traditional wooden room with stove heated water and lots of steam. We also had a day out around the island which was rather beautiful and peaceful as there were just 4 of us and the driver & we hardly saw another soul all day.
This was also the first
place where we have met non-Russians as it is a bit of a backpacker hangout (though out of season now). This was a bit strange as we have not been involved in much traveller talk so far. My second 'small world' incident in that one of the New Zealand girls we met had been working in Manchester for KPMG and worked with someone I have had many dealings with! (Those of you at work can probably guess who.)
So, it was quite sad to leave the island this morning but now we're back in Irkutsk and are staying in a small apartment belonging to a lady who speaks Russian and German so suddenly we're trying to dredge up all of our German! We only have tonight here and then back on the trains first thing in the morning but this is a day time train which gives great views of the lake which we're looking forward to.
Just checking - is there anybody out there apart from Jonathan and Sarah? ;-)
Hope all well.
Love
S + H xx
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anonymous
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It's the oldest lake in the world!! Thanks to natural wonders of the world top trumps for that.