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Published: October 9th 2012
My proudest moment in Vladivostok has been negotiating my way around the local bus network without speaking a word of Russian. I am probably more proud than completing the Trans-Siberian. The journey only costs 30p and the buses have curtains. They are also tiny and if I have the seat over the wheel arch, even I can rest my chin on my knees.
The tiny bus does mean that I get to observe my fellow passengers. One thing I have noticed is the high number of people with bunches of flowers. At least five on the single decker bus. I have also noticed several 24 hour florists accross the city. Are florists really offering such a vital service? Apparently so, if you need a rose at 3am come to Vlad. That said the flowers that the women on the bus carried looked a bit suspect. Pretty flowers but withered and wrapped in newspaper. Yesterday in the local park, I was watching some kids do breakdancing and saw at least three old ladies eye up the flower beds. I think I have uncovered some city wide floral theivery.
Vladivostok is a coastal city and a naval base. It was closed to most Russians until 1992 and only opened to foreigners after 2000. Going to the harbour can be fascinating. In between the bathers and the candy floss stalls you can see the Navy training. On Saturday they were practising putting out fires on ships. The training ship was out in the harbour with smoke billowing and people being assisted off board. Then helicopters came by to dump water on the flames, scoping up seawater with big baskets swinging beneath. Ships with water jets also helped. Then two aeroplanes landed on the water, picked up water, took off, circled back over the ship and dumped water on the pretend flames. It looked so cool! I did wonder if any fish died during the exercise. All children in Vladivostok must want to join the Navy after seeing that every weekend.
My time in the city has been lovely. I have got to wander round the city just watching. I've seen brides all across the city having wedding photos taken (the custom seems to be to get married and then spend several hours traipsing around having photos taken while the guests get drunk). I have been to numerous churches and was invited to an organ recital. I have also eaten huge amounts of cake - honey cake, Petersburg cake, poppy seed cake, chocolate cake.
I have also spent time talking to people in the hostel where I am staying. There is a slightly mad Russian IT engineer. After the iron curtain fell he said he was able to complete his lifelong dream and visit Liverpool - home of the Beatles. He expected a city full of love and was taken back when he was robbed on the first night. He now thinks all British have hate in their hearts. Then there is an American, born in Oklahoma, and living in China. He visits Vladivostok, not only because he needs to leave China every few months as a visa requirement, but because he is looking to invest in gold. He seems an engaging but highly suspicious character. He also hates the British after having been conned out of 30k by a English man named Champagne Charlie in Hong Kong. To be fair the clue should surely have been in the nickname.
Anyway, in a few hours I board the ferry to Japan. Until today the weather has been beautiful and now it's horrific. Typical. I have enjoyed my time in Russia. My language skills are limited though. I can say yes, no, and thank you. I was trying to add goodbye (sort of pronounced dasvidanya) but keep wanting to say Dostoevsky. I look like a right idiot. 'Yep - OK bye then. Charles Dickens!' Doh.
Keep well everyone. Kxx
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Ben Finn
non-member comment
Flowers
Yes, the flower thing seems to be the same in Latvia, which I visited once - so it may be a widespread Eastern European thing. They're so keen on flowers that all buses there have a vase of flowers in front of the driver. That said, all those flowers don't make them smile, as Latvians are opposed to smiling (the guidebook said they regard it as superficial & idiotic).